Best brake fluid for disc brake conversion?

[Case500D]

Hi Guys,



What type of brake fluid are those of you who have done the rear disc brake conversion using? I am thinking of using the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.



Here is what EGR reccomends "Motul RBF 600 Synthetic Brake Fluid, boasts extremely high boiling points: Dry 594 degrees And Wet 421 degrees, with exceptional recovery time. Virtually eliminates vapor lock and brake fade. Motul 600 is fully miscible with synthetic brake fluids complying with SAE J1703, DOT 3,4, and 5. 1"



My question is, will the DOT 5 brake fluid I am thinking of using work in my brake system? I am choosing it over EGR's because I can get it at any NAPA or Car Quest. Also, any hints on flushing out the DOT 3 fluid? Any comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks.



Jeremy

 

[Philip]

DOT 5 will work with no problem. Remember when the calipers came out you are putting on the rear. They only used DOT 3 or DOT 2. Plus I don't like the thought of mail ordering brake fluid. Buy local.



To clean the old brake fluid out. If you have a small air compressor or air tank. Just unhook the line from the master cylinder. Then blow it out. What would be left I wouldn't worry about. The normal bleeding will get rid of the rest.



You going to leave the POS> ABS valve in?

 

[Case500D]

ABS valve

Philip,



Thanks for the idea on cleaning the brake system out. The DOT 5 fluid is expensive, so the less I bleed out on the ground, the better off I am. I ended up getting a brake line flaring tool from NAPA. It isn't as pretty as the factory line, but I think they will work just fine. The residual pressure valve fit in very well. I put it right after the master cylinder and before the divider block. I hadn't thought about removing the ABS valve, but will consider it. My rear ABS did work fine until the warning lights started coming on. I hope that the disc brakes will cause the warning lights to go off. I can't get any fault code to come on to figure out what is wrong, oh well. How is the front axle project coming along? Get your grill shimmed up? Talk to you later.



Jeremy

 

[Philip]

Back odered on the lower ball joints.



But it is giving me time to clean/repaint all the parts I have removed. Got my hands on a 2" bore brush yesterday. So I'll be cleaning the inside of the axle tubes. The left one is full of mud.

 

[jeff77indy]

Case 500 what is the residual pressure valve? Is this part of the disc brake conversion?

Could you e-mail or PM me a parts run down that you used for the install other than what came in the kit.

I just ate a rear brake adjuster and am putting it back together with 2 1/2" shoes to get by until I do the conversion or go to 3" shoes.

Jeff

 

[Philip]

Jeff



If you need a drum or 2. I have two in my garage looking for good homes. You pickup and haul off.

 

[Case500D]

Parts List

Jeff,



Here is what I got along with the EGR kit.



Wheel bearings and races ($?), 2 speedi-sleeves and green loc-tite ~$96, new bearing lock nuts and locks ($?), rear axle nut socket ($?), 2 quarts DOT 5 brake fluid ~$50, 2 lb residual pressure brake valve ~$17, brake line tool kit and various brake line fittings ~$30. You will also need a couple of cans of brake cleaner. If you haven't replaced your master cylinder, this would be a good time to do it. Mine has just been replaced. I got all of my stuff at various vendors, basically what ever was the best quality with the least price. Hope this helps.



The residual pressure valve for the brakes keeps the calipers from bleeding all of the fluid back to the master cylinder. If you don't have this item, the pedal will be mushy the first application, but will firm up with the second because the caliper is filling with brake fluid. Summit Racing sells them. Philip recommended them to me and also informed me that the stock master cylinder has them built in for the front disc brakes. But of course going from drum to disc you need something in there for the rears. All it really is, is a 2 lb check valve in the brake line mounted really close to the master cylinder.



Jeremy

 

[MikeO]

SynPower

I use Valvoline SynPower brake fluid in everything I own. I have an Audi that is a road track race car. It has Porsche calipers and big rotors all around. It is a braking beast which will brake from 130-40 every 45 seconds all day long without boiling fluid. Why? First, I use great pads. Second, I use great fluid. I used to use ATE Super Blue but I actually boiled that a couple of times ($35 a pint). I switched to Valvoline SynPower on the recommendation of a friend. Three years later, I have yet to boil fluid on the track. It's cheap (~$5) and because it's clear, it's easy to figure out when things are really bled.



Mike O.