Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Best Brake Shoes and Pads to Buy?

[MacGreenie]

I have a leaking rear wheel seal on the right rear wheel.



Oil soaked pads and terrible braking are the result.



I am now replacing both rear wheel seals and possibly rear brake cylinders while I am in there.



I have been reading about rear wheel disk conversions but would like to see if I can save the dough and optimize the rear brake drum OEM setup.



Any suggestions on what carbon-metallic pad to buy (that is the best, right?) and where to find them?



I have 72K on the truck. Front brakes are fine. Little wear on rotors or drums... . both are smooth. But I think the rear drums have been loafing and not doing alot of helping to stop the vehicle. Very little shoe wear. But I could have glazed the front pads due to overheating with the "lazy" rear brake situation and will change those pads out too.



Thoughts, opinons and suggestions?



TIA



MacGreenie



I tow a 24 fot, 7000 pound boat frequently and for long distances.

 

[Truckie]

I have a 2001 Ram 2500 I just put new pads on the front of it and it only has 24,000 on it. The factory brakes only had a little wear on them but the left front brake pad had a spot abought the size of a quater that you could feel a rough spot in it, I sanded it out and was ok for abought 30 miles and then squeaking was really unbearable same bad spot was back you could feel and pick out the little fibers on the pad, so I went to the part store and got a new set of pads they are Weaver and I tell you I can't tell the difference from them compared to the original ones I am very pleased with them and do recommend them. They stop just as good if not better.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I don't know of any rear _shoes_ in carbon metallic, only front _pads_. The former are for drum brakes, the latter are for disks. I had good luck with Raybestos PG+ (red backing plate) from Pep Boys for the rear shoes. NAPA should be OK too. Some others don't work out well, such as the gold backing plate Raybestos.

 

[Steve Campbell]

Joseph, could you expand a little bit on the difference between red and gold backing plate Raybestos linings???

 

[Cooker]

Sam Peterson mentioned the NAPA brake lining has a tendancy to hold a bit more moisture than others.

 

[JohnE]

Call Sam Peterson at Rapid Brake Service in Olympia, WA at 360. 357. 4958 and get his advice.

Sam has been stopping vehicles for over 30 years and being that is his main business only sells the best.

Ask Sam questions and he will either sell you parts at a reasonable rate or recommend other sources.



-John

 

[GFoley]

MacGreenie,



I have Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads on the front and Bendix shoes on the rear. My LR axle seal was also leaking. A 2 9/16" socket is a bit oversize but will do nicely to remove the axle hub nut. Seals are cheaper at NAPA than dealer, $12 vs $35.



G Foley

 

[JohnE]

Make sure your rear brake cylinders are the 1 ton size. Most report fantastic braking with them.

 

[mediccummin]

carbo mets

I bought those carbon metalic pads from Sam, I'm not sure I like them they make alot of noise. What can I do to get rid of the squeeling, sound like metal to metal. My rotors are in perfect shape only 30k on truck with little towing. What is causing this horrible noise. I used the grease and new boots he sent with them. Any input would be great. Never had a set of pads squeel this bad.

 

[rkressg]

Use a disk brake quiet spray on the back of the pad. Reinstall all of the anti-squeal clips. Drive it for 500 miles to break in the linings. They should eventually quiet down. All metallic pads make noise unitl they break in. Mine have quied down a significant amount, but they still squeal every time I use the service brakes.

The ultimate solution, TURN UP THE RADIO!

-Rich

 

[Hohn]

Porterfield R4S Street brake pads. Get them direct from the company. Pricey, but the best Carbon/Kevlar pad out there. They will yank the fillings out of your teeth on a hard stop. They DO dust, but don't eat rotors. I gladly will handle the mild dusting in return for the awesome braking... ...



HOHN

 

[OTRPU]

Better the pads dusting than the rotors etching. Have Bremtek Racing Brakes on the wifes vehicle. Not real efficient unless alittle warm. The pads are somewhat sacrificial to my way of thinking anyway, and usually more effective when cold. Maybe the new trucks have thicker rotors, the older trucks can hardly be cut once.



Cheers, Steve J.

 

[JohnE]

The trick with many pads is to burnish them.



Get out and do hard "stop and goes" for a dozen cycles until the pads set into the rotor.



Semi-metallic are a whole different animal than organic. Organic (asbestos) operate best under around 400&degF. Semis- startt operating at 600°F.