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Best Cold Air Intake

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2 weeks old and already a warranty issue--defroster

Overhead fuel mileage correction

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TMarszalek said:
the hydrophobic process used to repel water on the outerwear cover only lasts for 6 to 12 months.
Really, I didn't know that. So then the outerwear's is a disposable product that should be changed once a year correct?
 
Matt400 said:
Really, I didn't know that. So then the outerwear's is a disposable product that should be changed once a year correct?



That sounds about right. Mine got a little dusty and didn't repel much water any more. It just soaked in.
 
Mark Craig said:
BigGunZ,

While that is technically possible you would have to realllly over oil the filter a lot of times to ever have the opportunity to pass that much oil into the cooler. An average reoil of a Stage II filter uses less than 1 ounce of oil, anymore than that and your wasting oil anyway. Check with the Ford boys, the 7. 3's have a crankcase vent that vents into the entry of the turbo, the amount of oil that collects is 10 times what you could ever do with a oiled filter and doesn't effect the overall charge temp etc. I have seen Ford coolers being cleaned and they can get as much as a quart of oil out of a high mileage one.

Mark @ DPPI

I was curious about that and was waiting to see if anyone had any first hand experience with examining the coolers after a stint with an oiled filter. My 7. 3 had the same CC vent but it wasn't intercooled.
 
srichard said:
Has anybody tried this one?



http://www.psmbuick.com/products_045newer.asp



it was mentioned in the latest TDR magazine, and lets you keep the stock paper filter...



I'm currently running that system and have been since July only I switched out the stock filter with an afe stock replacement. Improved air flow and very quiet. e-mail me for further info. I'm just leaving and will be out of town till next week though
 
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srichard said:
Thats a neat idea and I like it but have to question one thing. .



At the entrance of that tube how do we know there is a positive pressure that would over come the fender intake point? Its possible that there could even be a negative pressure at the tubes entry point actually pulling air the other way.

At speed its hard to say what kind of turbulence/pressure is at that point.

I would like it better in the holes where fogs go but wouldn't think of sacrificing my lamps to do it.
 
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Good points Matt. Their dyno numbers obviously won't reflect what could be happening at speed, but their EGT results would tend to point towards the fact that it is working.



I was also thinking about trying to use a NACA duct at the inlet to try and maximize the air flow.

At $89, the system is pretty cheap, and could also be duplicated in any number of configurations using PCV, or other air ducting materials for less money.
 
srichard said:
I was also thinking about trying to use a NACA duct at the inlet to try and maximize the air flow.
That is an excellent idea IMO, would you mount it right on the fender? Painted and all finished off would be super trick! Send me a link of what ducts you are looking at.
 
psmbuick System

The "psmbuick" system is built by Performance Systems Mfg. , LLC of Golden, CO. I talked with the guy that builds this system at this years May Madness. He did a LOT of testing in the mountain passes of CO with this system & others and had some good arguments for his product backed up by documentation. If I'm not mistaken, he used a drop-in AFE PG-7 filter for his testing.

He said his testing showed that some of the aftermarket air intake systems actually caused you to lose some power, whereas, his showed an improvement.



I have an AFE PG-7 Air Intake System on my '03 & performed an oil sample test at the last oil change. My Duramax buddy, citing the Spicer AF Test, recommended removing the AFE & going back to the stock set-up. I was curious just how much silicon (dirt) was getting into the oil.



I live in Phoenix, AZ (dusty, desert environment) & ran Chevron Delo-400 15X40 for 8303 miles at which time I changed it & the Fleetguard oil filter. The bottm line was that the silicon level was at 5, with the recommendation that "No Action Required", "NO PROBLEMS PRESENTLY ASSOCIATED WITH THIS SAMPLE. CONTINUE SAMPLING AT THE NORMAL INTERVAL. " The test was done at Empire Fluids Lab, a division of Caterpillar, Empire Southwest, LLC.



After receiving the results, I went down & talked to them, just to verify the results & they, again, said that a silicon level of 5 was fine.



With the results of this testing, I feel more comfortable with the use of the AFE PG-7.



Hope this helps.



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
Matt400 said:
That is an excellent idea IMO, would you mount it right on the fender? Painted and all finished off would be super trick! Send me a link of what ducts you are looking at.



so far, the ducts I have found on Pegasus (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ProductSelection.asp?Product=3628) only go up to a 3 inch hose.



Also, I am more of a stealth guy, and I would just put the duct inlet at the end of the hose, under the truck, trying to grab some of the air going by. I am not keen on cutting into my fender! :)

Actually, if anyone was so inclined it would be relatively easy to mount the inlet directly across of the stock rectangular inlet and rig up a hose to go from the round inlet tube to the rectanguler (trapezoidal ?) stock air box inlet... Just not me! :D
 
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srichard said:
I am more of a stealth guy, and I would just put the duct inlet at the end of the hose, under the truck, trying to grab some of the air going by.
I took a look under there, in and around the fender and your approach sounds like a good idea. To do something direct would be more involved than I first thought, especially with flairs in which case the duct would have to be on top of the headlamp.



Mounting a NACA duct flush with the air dam would insure positive flow at speed.
 
Cool, after looking at the Miata maybe on top of the fender wouldn't be so bad.

In that location it probably would be best not to connect it to the OEM box and simply let it blow into the area the box breathes from to help defuse water in the winter.



I like these kind of ducts. You could put it on the hood if you have an open intake, would need to block it off in the winter. Those carbon fiber ducts are interesting for on top of the fender because they have no hose connection tube and would just dump more fresh air in that area.
 
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I first started using K & N filters in 1984 when I ordered a sidewinder turbo for my 6. 2L suburban if it can run for 211,000 with no problems I'm sure my CTD will last at least twice that, and I can live with that. The sonund from the K & N is awsom...
 
NavyDood,



Any updates on the AEM Dryflow? Pro/con, likes, how does your truck feel, noise? Now that you have put some miles on it, what do you think? I am really curious/interested in this filter.



Thanks,



Sid
 
Sorry I kinda gaffed this thread off. I did add the grease for about 2000 miles or so. No grit in the grease. We have been in a drought here in the Dallas Fort Worth area which is the worst since the 1950's. It is dusty, dusty, dusty. I am still very pleased with the AEM brute force. I removed the silencer ring and it did make it a tad louder on mine. The sound get's annoying at times when just cruising down the highway, but nothing the radio doesn't take care of. I may put the silencer ring back on. My filter minder still hasn't moved anymore than previously noted.



The only thing different I would do now, is go with the psmbuick kit. I just like the way they have modded the stock airbox. And you will never go wrong with using a fleetguard filter. This may hurt ya some though if ya run a "box" of some sort and your hp levels start going up.



If I get tired of the AEM filter, I could always slap a BHAF on it. :D
 
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