Here I am

Best equipped towing rig

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

roof cleaning

Touring Kentucky - Need advice

I think fuel pressure should be the third. w/o fuel you won't make any boost so the boost gauge is out. Since you don't have any mods that would increase your boost significantly that would be a second reason not to worry about the boost.

However, the fuel gauge will tell you if the engine is being fed in cases where your truck might be having a problem. It can also tell you if you have a dirty filter depending on where you hook up the gauge.



I must be missing something..... why would a fuel pressure gauge be necessary on an 05' 3rd Gen 'stock' truck?I read Grizzly's sig and it showed no mods to the Cummins which is why I suggested a pyro and boost gauge... although I tend to agree about the boost being marginal in necessity. I realize the 2nd Gens require a fuel sender and gauge for the VP-44,but a bone-stock 05' shouldnn't need a fuel psi gauge. I have seen 3rd Gens reach 1200* before with no mods and although I understand their heads can take more heat,the pyro would be a good upgrade for any diesel truck. The boost gauge on a stock truck would be best used to establish parameters and if there was a problem,the driver could establish a trend of low boost #'s and research the issue. You posted this fuel gauge twice now and I am interested in anyone's response not just Curious Dave's as to why. I am interested because I am considering a 3rd gen truck soon myself:)





Alan
 
I have a stock 2006 Laramie Quad cab,DRW, 8ft bed,HO 5. 9, 300+hp; 625 ft lbs torque;with a Getrag 6-speed manual trans(Mercedes aluminum case), 3. 73 rear end. I've only added the Jacobs exhaust brake(dealer installed). At required service, changed the trans fluid to Royal purple,replaced the rear diff cover with Mag Hytec finned cover;(switched to Royal purple 75-140), and installed a 20,000 lb Reese fifth wheel hitch. So far, all is well. Added an aux fuel tan in the bed(100 gal. )

We pull our 39 ft Grand Junction, gvw of 15,500, with no problem. Front brake service @65,000 miles; checked rear @ 118,301 and shows little sign of wear. (I guess the exhaust brake is the answer).

I have pulled triple axle Carriage 44ft 5th wheel, with gvw of 18,500, with no problems.

I beleive that I have enough power and torque to move just about anything. I change oil & filters, as required by maint sched. Started using Valvoline initially, but changed to Rotella-T when the new SAE specs came out. I use only Cummins or Mopar parts. Finally, I add Cummins/Valvoline diesel fuel conditioner to each tank of fuel. Dealer diesel mechanic verified ok... . BUT, nothing else to fuel or oil.
 
Has anyone actually upgraded their rear differential to handle their towing needs? I currently have a 3. 73 rear end, was thinking of upgrading to 4. 10. I'm thinking about upgrading from a 26ft travel trailer to a 37ft fifth wheel, and i'm trying to determine what i should upgrade to handle this load. First thing i'm doing is upgrading the transmission with a new Torque converter, flex plate, valve body, input shaft and bigger pan. After that possibly FASS system, bigger head studs and a twin cp3 system.



Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!
 
Last edited:
The transmission would be a very good start... . the TC is very weak as compared to an aftermarket choice and the VB will increase line pressure. That is exactly what I did over 2 years ago and have put 30K while towing with about 400hp. The ratio upgrade to 4. 10 will certainly help the load get moving better and be easier on your transmission,but your truck will have no trouble maintaining Interstate speeds with 3. 73's. I tow with 3. 55's and don't have a problem... . I just downshift when the r's get too low. Seems to be a big thing with many Cummins owners..... reluctant to downshift when the need arises. If I tow at 55mph or less,I hit the OD button and cruise at 1900 or so and when I reach 65 to 70mph,I let it shift into OD. I get the best mileage and egt driving like this and although the truck will tow in OD at 55mph,in my truck it lugs the engine.



Alan
 
Back
Top