Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Best 'how-to' for injector replacement?

[WBusa]

OK, I'm gonna do it... going to order me some 215s from Piers and slap 'em in next week (I know, I know; 370s are the way to go, but I have my reasons for keeping it kinda conservative).



Anyway, I'm looking for the best blow-by-blow instructions for replacing injectors in a 2nd gen, and would appreciate any pointers. The dodgeram.org site's 2nd gen index leads you to a page titled "1st Geneneration Injector Change" ( http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/injector_inst.htm )... any major or minor changes to these instructions for a 2nd gen?



Of course, I have the shop manual; but detailed tips from other shadetrees are always helpful. And of course, I've searched TDR; but after looking at over 200 threads I can't see straight anymore and I still haven't found the sort of step-by-step instructions for dummies that I like.



Will appreciate any leads y'all can provide. Thanks!



{Hey, summer fuel is back! 22 MPG hwy this week! Whoopee!}

 

[Got Smoke?]

If you want it plain simple and blunt here ya go! :-laf



#1 remove intake horn 5/10mm's 1/11mm(intercooler boot clamp)

#2 loosen all the injector lines @ both injectors and pump (19mm)

#3 about the middle of the head there are 2/10mm's holding the injector lines down remove them and remove the injector lines as a complete set.

#4 remove 6/10mm return line bolts in the side of the injector, on Driver side of the 5th valve cover there is 1/10mm bolt that holds the return line to the intake manifold, also there is a 1/12mm bolt holding the return line to the top of fuel filter housing. Remove return line.

#5 remove the 6/24mm retaining nuts holding the injectors in

#6 take one lug nut from your truck and thread it onto the injector top, then use a decent length pry bar and and from the front of the truck hook it under the lug nut and use the headbolt in front of each to pop it out.



Now reinstall in reverse order and enjoy! :-laf

 

[pwerwagn]

#6 take one lug nut from your truck and thread it onto the injector top, then use a decent length pry bar and and from the front of the truck hook it under the lug nut and use the headbolt in front of each to pop it out.



Now reinstall in reverse order and enjoy!

So, do you put the lug nut on the new injectors and loosen it to install them?? :-laf :-laf Just Kiddin.

 

[ndurbin]

3/4 works in place of a 19mm wrench

15/16 I believe works inplace of the 24mm



I usually have a magnet laying around incase something drops down in the intjector holes. I used a brass brush to clean out the injector bores and anti-seized them when I went back together. And the return line never seems to line up right for me so if it needs alil tweaking it's ok. I've done it both ways with leaving the lines on the pump and taking them off and taking them off is ALOT easier.



Nathan

 

[WBusa]

Great tips guys; thanks!

I used a brass brush to clean out the injector bores

Oh, hey, thanks for reminding me of this, Nathan. I read this same thing in the shop manual (they even have a picture, in case you can't figger out how to stick a brush into a hole) and my first thought was "so what keeps the schmutz you're brushing out of the injector bore from falling into the cylinder?" Am I missing something here?

 

[Jschafer]

That is my question also (junk in the hole) What about new washers and what size, I have used injectors that have been checked out that I will eventually install (call me cheap :-laf ).

Great blow by blow that was perfect

 

[ndurbin]

Nothing really keeps the junk from falling in there really. You can take a shop vac and attach a smaller peice of hose to fit down in the hole and try to get most of the junk out. Guess if someone was really concerned you could block the hole at the bottom and let the junk build up at the bottom and vaccum it out that way.



Nathan

 

[Forrest]

Mine were in there about a year when I changed them. Used the pry bar & it wasn't easy. Gave me the BIG uneasy prying on them.



I'm gonna try the lug nut w/sleeve method next. Can't remember who created this pic. I'll be happy to plagarize though. The dimension of the sleeve is 3/4" x 1 3/8", I think. Maybe someone can chime in.

 

[sanyata]

Check this link out. It was the most helpful info for me and almost made the manual useless:



http://www.lib.uaa.alaska.edu/~tibor/DD-Injector-Install-Instructions.pdf



It list tools, has pictures and is really easy to follow. This was the first time working on a CTD for me and it took 2. 5 hours start to finish. Straight forward and easy.



Good Luck!



Doug

 

[Joe G.]

I made a quick and dirty slide hammer. A few sharp taps and out comes the injector.

 

[KYOUNG]

I just got done doing the lugnut prybar method on my new 370's, it was real easy. hardest part was putting return line back on... ...

 

[JGheen]

Check this link out. It was the most helpful info for me and almost made the manual useless:



http://www.lib.uaa.alaska.edu/~tibor/DD-Injector-Install-Instructions.pdf



It list tools, has pictures and is really easy to follow. This was the first time working on a CTD for me and it took 2. 5 hours start to finish. Straight forward and easy.



Good Luck!



Doug

Those instructions are for a 24v injector change. Are there any for a 94-98. 4 12v injector change out there with similar helpful pics? I witnessed a 24v swap this past weekend and it seemed like a cake walk compared to a 12v swap.

 

[radixr]

The sleeve material in Forrest's pic is 3/4" E. M. T. You should use a tubing cutter so the ends are perpendicular to the length and thus won't create a side force on the injector when it is being pulled.

 

[BLillquist]

Injector Install

Forget the pry bar. use the sleeve and lug nut method,I used it and all 6 came out very easily. only #6 was the tough on because of the engine cowling. good luck.

 

[JGheen]

Forget the pry bar. use the sleeve and lug nut method,I used it and all 6 came out very easily. only #6 was the tough on because of the engine cowling. good luck.

So the sleeve just seats around the injector on the head and the lug nut acts as a puller as you tighten it down and out comes the injector? Seems like a much better, safer method than using a pry bar.

What about installation, do you just tap them in with a rubber mallet, or will the injector nuts pull it into place when you tighten them down?

 

[ndurbin]

You shouldn't need to tap them in (not sure that would be a good idea either). They have a small check ball to line them up when they go back in, just note the position when they come out (usually the ball faces to the passenger side away from the motor). If the injector doesn't slip right in after you have cleaned it all out something aint right.



Nathan