The difference in gas temp pre vs post comes not from the difference in distance from the engine. The temp difference is becasue the turbo has extracted energy from the exhaust gas to compress the incoming stream.
The function of the turbo is to expand exhaust gas, therefore lowering the temp (PV/T).
Exactly right. Accuracy of post-turbo temp is not the issue. It is relevance. The turbine exit temp is only relevant to the engine exh temp if you know how much work is being done by the turbo at the time. More work = larger temp drop across the turbine wheel. Principle used in industry all the time to get larger temperature drops in cryogenic processes than are possible by simply dropping the pressure through JT valve like your air conditioner does. The 200-300 degree drop across the turbo's turbine is simply a rule of thumb. If the boost is low, the temp drop across the turbo will be low. When the boost is high, the temp drop will be too. Putting the temp probe upwind of the turbo saves you a lot of mental gymnastics with ESTIMATING what the relevant exhaust temp actually is while accounting for all the variables in that equation. I choose to get a direct reading and that means pre-turbo.
For those worried about burning up a turbine wheel: the turbine inlet temp is the important one. The hottest part of the turbine is going to melt first and if temp is increasing across the turbo, then the laws of thermodynamics are being violated.

You want to know if you've got engine problems as soon as they occur, and if you are running in a high EGT situation, you are almost certainly also running high boost as well. High work = large temp drop; therefore, the turbine is dampening out the temperature spike at the post-turbo probe while the pre-turbo probe sees the problem immediately. If you wait to see temp rise at the turbo's outlet, the turbine wheel may already be damaged or destroyed. On the large industrial engines I work with on the job, the pyrometer probe is ALWAYS pre-turbo with many examples of a temp probe in each engine cylinder exhaust port.
Regarding drilling/tapping the manifold while on the engine, try this: pull the air filter and drop it back in with a plastic bag across the outlet (clean) side. Then put a leaf blower or shop vac in the blow mode on the tailpipe. Wear safety glasses because the chips are going to come flying back at ya!Oo. This is a lot nicer than running the engine because not only is it a lot cooler, you don't have to deal with the noise, fumes and vibration either. :-laf Also second the earlier mention of punching through a small pilot hole first before drilling the final size.
Oh, and remember to remove the plastic bag from across the air filter when you're done!:-laf