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Best locker? Lock rite, Power Trax, Detroit?

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I'd like to put a lock rite, power trax or something similar in the back of my W250. I think it has a Dana 70. I know the ratio is 3. 07. Anybody got one? Would you like to sell it?
 
Yes, from what I know, you should have a Dana 70. Best locker? The full Detroit locker is the best IMO. They stand up to serious abuse and just keep working. The others you mentioned are cheaper and there is a reason. :D
 
Brian,



If you've the money and time the detriot is the best locker hands down, but if your not planning any serious abuse the lock-rites work just fine in the large dana carriers, i've been running them in the front and rear for 70,000 miles or better, and they've survived 2 Moab back country trips and many other excursions

with no problems at all!! and i'm alwaya carriing a camper, and a trailer a good part of the time.



best thing is $650 and 2 hours work and your done ... ..... Rick
 
Take a look at the Powertrax No-Slip. This is a much stronger unit than the Lock-Right. Lock-Rights get a bad rap from my hard core jeep friends that run TSL Boggers and big power. Detroit Lockers are the strongest, period. The only broken Detroit I have seen was in my friends Chevy 1-ton 4x4 tow truck. Other than that, they just don't seem to break!
 
I'd vote for the Power-Loc by Dana/Spicer. My 92 came with one on the rear and I also installed one in the front. At 136K miles there both still working great. I've had a Detroit Locker in a F**d I had and if you can stand the pushing and clanking the Detroit give you, the work good. But Lockers are horrible on snow and ice. We also have a 66 Power Wagon "with who knows how many miles" and after 35 years it's still going strong!

Steve
 
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The Powr-Loc has a good reputation, but is not a locker. It is a limited slip differential, like GM's Positraction. This may be what fits your needs best, I just wanted to point out it isn't a locker.



For my needs, I wouldn't want a locker in my truck, but am considering a Powr-Loc. My Dana 70 has some backlash I can hear though the driveline, so I'm thinking of going to a Powr-Loc in the process of fixing that. For my Jeep, lockers are a necessity. It's that or spend all day winching on the trail :D . But I don't have to drive my Jeep on the road, so there is no downside for me.



Lockers do have their noises, etc. This is just part of the deal. It is a give and take kind of thing. If you want the ultimate in traction, you give up some road manners. An LSD is a good compromise for some. Hope this helps.
 
My goal is to be able to climb my 20% grade snowy driveway even after it gets a bit icy. Open diffs are not cutting it. Are those Power-Locs as easy to install as a lock right? Do you have to remove the carrier?
 
I had a power lok installed in the rear diff in my truck last fall, and I absolutely love it. Originally my truck's rear diff was open, and I was always having to go into 4wd to get anywhere in winter.



Before I had it installed I was dead set on getting a detroit locker. The thing that changed my mind is that I do much more long-distance driving than off-road driving, and the extra tire wear of the locker made the difference. For me, the noise and different driving characteristics wouldn't be a big deal. My truck being an auto, and with it's longer wheel base (club cab, full length bed), the harshness would be dampened quite a bit.



About the only other thing that might be useful to someone considering a locker vs. limited slip that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread yet is that if you do go off-road with a clutch type limited slip and you happen to get one wheel up in the air, you may end up burning out the limited slip very quickly if the angle is such that the fluid all flows out of the diff and into the axle tube of the wheel that's still on the ground. With a locker, if you find yourself in that situation, it's just not an issue.



Mike
 
Originally posted by Brian R

Are you saying that using a locker accelerates tire wear?



Generally yes. Of course, it all depends on use--if you tend to give it throttle while in a turn, then the locker locks up and one tire scrubs a bit. If you coast through the turn and then accelerate after straightening out, then the locker is unlocked during the turn, allowing both rear wheels to roll normally, so you'd have less rear tire wear vs. accelerating through the turn.



It's not like the extra tire wear is huge or anything, but it is there.



Mike
 
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What, in your opinion, would be the best option for me in light of my situation?



My goal is to be able to climb my 20% grade

snowy driveway even after it gets a bit icy.
 
Originally posted by Brian R

What, in your opinion, would be the best option for me in light of my situation?



My goal is to be able to climb my 20% grade

snowy driveway even after it gets a bit icy.



That's a hard one to answer. For *me*, given that the driveway's that steep, if there are any turns in it, a locker might actually be somewhat dangerous, and I would go for a power lok.



The reason I say that is because you'll have to give it throttle in order to go uphill, which means the rear end is locked. Any turns, and the rear end of the truck will almost certainly go sideways on you.



I think a power lok and really good winter tires (siped, and steel studded if you're allowed to in your area) would be the best bet, but that's just me.



Mike
 
I do appreciate your feedback. There are no appreciable turns but I do tend to slide sideways with open diffs. Do you know if the power loc can be installed without removing the carrier? Studded snow tires is not an option. Me and the neighbor own the road. I clawed the tar out of it (literally) with my Baja Bug using studded snows so now I'm looking at $500 for a reseal of the road.
 
"Do you know if the power loc can be installed without removing the carrier?"



Installing the Power-Loc requires the complete dissassembly of the of differential. The Power-Loc comes with its own carrier.



Steve
 
Brian, Midnite has given you a lot of great input. I agree with all of it. As far as whether you have to remove the carrier to install a Powr-Loc, I would say yes, but I'm only about 95% sure. Maybe someone else can give a definite answer.



On all diffs I have been involved with, the "posi" version of the carrier is different to allow for the clutches, etc.



With an LSD or two and maybe some BFG AT's (I hear they're great in snow), you should be in good shape to climb that driveway. :D
 
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