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Best Method for Changing Transmission Fluid

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Hello Ya'll,



Question from somewhat novice.



I have a 2004. 5 Ram (140K mi. ) that I bought used one year ago.



It recently came to my attention that the I needed to have the transmission fluid replaced.



I heard a nightmare from someone who did it the wrong way and ended up getting metal shavings into the transmission... resulting in disaster. The local lube shop says they have a method of just sucking it out and then replacing the fluid. I definitely want to make sure that its done the right way.



Any advice?



Also have to replace differential fluid... but I am assuming that is fairly straightforward.



Thanks in advance,



Mike
 
Welcome to TDR!!

If it's a manual trans, it's fairly straight forward as well.

If it's an auto, my advice it to take it to a dealer or transmission shop you trust to do a good job and have the entire trans flushed and re-filled.

BTW, in case you didn't already know, the diffs have a re-usable gasket on them. No need for RTV. Also, no need for limited slip additive.

If it's a 4x4 make sure you also do the trans case. It gets dirtier much faster than the trans.
 
Thanks Mberry!



So in your opinion, Jiffy Lube ain't the way to go?



Mike



This is just my own humble opinion, but I would NEVER take my vehicle to Jiffy Lube. I had a close friend of mine that worked there for no longer than a week and gave his resignation because he didn't want his name associated with their corporation. Some of the things he told me he witnessed there were shocking to say the least. He said a guy came in with a BMW and it required a special oil filter. Since they didn't have it in stock the manager told the technician to just find one of similar size and make it work. They forced it on and it was leaking oil from around the seal. When my friend said something to the manager about it, the manager replied "the guy probably won't even notice". I'm sure that not ALL jiffy lube's operate in this fashion, and I know there are plenty of honest hard working Americans that are employed there. My policy is, if you can do it yourself, at least you know it was done right. If I can't do it myself, I'll find a shop where I know someone of honest good character that works there.
 
Tons of archive info at this website.



Under Discussion Forum drop down menu, select Search Forum, then use thread title words, "change transmission oil", there'll be lots to read.



Lots of mechanics in the know don't like transmission shop flushes due to risk of those shop flush machines introducing crude into your transmission.



Spend some time, read the archives, decide for yourself.
 
Just loosen all the rear bolts on the rear oil pan on the transmission (make sure you have a big oil catcher or something big) let it drain= well what will. Then remove all the bolts. The pan will fall off, You will see the filter right there, I think it's a 1/2" bolt take it off, replace with new. I always run a new pan gasket. And refill what should be 4-5 quarts of oil-(fill in the dipstick where you check it. ) Fire it up, put it through all the gears, then back to park and check the level. It's super easy just really messy. If you live in So. Ca I work at Culhane Off-road Trans.
 
There is nothing wrong with a good trans flush provided no cleaning chemicals are used! The cleaners are solvent based and there is NO WAYthat you can get it all out. All the trans flush machines I have seen do have a filter that needs to changed periodicly. Of course the fluid used is very important for proper operation.



The filter is held on by T25 torks bolts ;) and all the later trans with stock pans will take approx. 6 qts. The oem convertors are not equipped with drain plugs but the Majority of aftermarket convertors will have drain plugs.
 
Most shops that do the "trans flush" do it because they don't have to drop the pan. If they don't drop the pan they can't and don't change the filter.

Since you bought the truck used and probably don't know the service history I would do a complete flush, filter and band adjustment. To change all the fluid you need to disconnect the cooler return line and put a clear plastic hose on it and drop into a bucket.

After you've changed the filter install the pan and put about 6 qts. in and start truck in neutral to pump oil through the converter and cooler lines. Remember that you can only run it about 15-20 seconds before you need to shut down and refill and trans. Keep an eye on the fluid coming out the tube, it will be obvious when it changes to clean fresh fluid. If you over fill with the return line disconnected fluid can leak out through the hole.
 
WoodChuck,

I also use your method.

Some people think it's too much trouble, but I like to be able to clean,and check for wear debris in pan, new filter and new fluid in everything.

I do have a question though.

It seems like each time I've done this (2-3 maybe, on dif. trucks) I can never remember from one time, to the next, which oil line is the return line from the cooler. To try to trace it up to the cooler is usually a PIA.

Is there an easy way to this, so maybe I can remember it?

Thanks, Ray
 
You will FAIL your duties to the trans if you don't make sure the filter is changed.

It can plug and cause a failure. Don't believe anything else unless you work for or own stock in a trans shop!!!
 
It depends on if you want to just drop the pan, replace filter, and replace fluid, or if you want to do a complete fluid exchange. Here is what I did on my 2003 47RE:



1) drop the pan and clean it with solvent (I used brake cleaner) and let dry. Clean off magnent and replace.

2) adjust rear band and replace filter

3) replace pan and adjust front band

4) pour in ATF to match the amount that came out from dropping the pan (mine took approx 6. 5 qts)

5) then remove the cooler line closest to the rear of the truck (this is the one that contains the fluid returning to the trans from the cooler)

6) attach 5/8" ID hose to cooler line with a hose clamp, then route into bucket

7) start truck and put in neutral (no fluid will come out when it is in park)

8) run until 4 qts comes out

9) shut off truck

10) pour in 4 qts

11) repeat steps 7-10 two more times (so a total of 16-18 qts of fluid are replaced).

12) reattach cooler line, start truck, take it for a long spin (10-15 miles) to get trans fluid up to operating temp, then check and top off as necessary. Make sure you DO NOT overfill it.



Good luck.
 
WoodChuck,
I also use your method.
Some people think it's too much trouble, but I like to be able to clean,and check for wear debris in pan, new filter and new fluid in everything.
I do have a question though.
It seems like each time I've done this (2-3 maybe, on dif. trucks) I can never remember from one time, to the next, which oil line is the return line from the cooler. To try to trace it up to the cooler is usually a PIA.
Is there an easy way to this, so maybe I can remember it?
Thanks, Ray

It is a little extra work but I like knowing that all the fluid has been replaced.

As stated in the post before this, it is the line at the rear of the transmission (on every iteration of the 727 thru 48 RE).
 
I pull the drain plug on the MH pan, then then the torque converter. Then drop the pan, change filter, replace pan and both drain plugs. Refill with about 12 quarts, start it up for 30 seconds, add 6 more and check it. Usually needs 19-19. 5 quarts.
 
NBeebe,

Thanks for the great step by step, I'll be making a copy of that for my files.

Where can I get more info. on how to do the F and R band adjustments.

Thanks for any reply on this,

Ray
 
adjust front band, special tool for 48re?

Per the reference to the service manual in the post above, in the instructions to adjust the front band it reads:



CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach

the adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5

N·m (47-50 in. lbs. ) torque.



For those that have adjusted the bands on 2004. 5 48re or something similar, is that adapter (whatever it is) necessary? I do need to get a small inch pounds torque wrench for this job.



What does that adapter look like anyway and do you get one from the stealer?
 
JLandry,

Thanks for the link, but I'm doing oil change etc, on my 98, 12V 47RE.

If you have info. on this trans. , can you post a link on it also?

Thanks for any help on this.

Ray
 
JLandry,
Thanks for the link, but I'm doing oil change etc, on my 98, 12V 47RE.
If you have info. on this trans. , can you post a link on it also?
Thanks for any help on this.
Ray

It might be better to post a technical question line that in the correct forum. This is the 03-07 forum.

The rear band is probably different but I think the front is the same.
 
This thread should probably be pinned to the top of the forum. Lots of good information that I imagine gets answered repeatedly. I know I've read this thread more than once.

I changed my fluid this weekend and replaced the oil pan with the double deep mag hytec.
#ad


I also replaced the solenoid that causes the 1-2 stutter shift. Since the oil pan was off, this was easy to do and took only a few minutes with two #25 torx pan-heads and IIRC 4 3/4 bolts.

I also adjusted the bands both back and front. You can adjust the front band without the pan off, but I did them both at the same time. (32000 miles)

I went to the Dodge service department in McKinney Texas to ask a few questions about the service I was about to do. One of the service managers recommended I talk with "Mike". Mike suggested that I did not need a torq wrench for the bands but tighten so that there was about 1/4" movement left in the arms. I was skeptical so I checked with a inch-pound wrench and sure enough, this was correct on both bands. Mike also said that I was unlikely to have to adjust them again but that if they were not set at 30,000, it could cause a transmission failure later on.

I did not do a flush, only a drain since I was adding so much new fluid with the new pan. The pan went on well and the adapter for the filter which lowers it to the bottom half of the deeper pan was simple to install. although the directions were not very accurate for my model. The plastic gasket was EASY to put back in and there was no leaking or crimping like could be done to a cork gasket with all that mass of a pan and so many bolts holes to line up. The transmission oil pan was also small enough in diameter that a large oil drain pan (I used a black plastic cement/mortar mixing tray from home depot) can be used to catch most of the fluid. USE eye protection! You don't wan fluid in your eyes. It takes about 24 hours to recover if you're lucky. (don't ask).

There will be splatter from working under the dripping hole so you will need a mat the area of about a square that fits between the front wheels to catch incidental drops of fluid. A creeper is both good and bad, you can scoot around easily, but it can make some required maneuvering cramped. A few cuss-words helped when this happened. #@$%! A good work light is also needed to see well. Maybe some reading glasses too if you cant lift the truck high enough away.

There was no prying to get the stock pan off. As soon as the bolts became loose, the oils started dripping and the pan and the gasket came off with no fuss at all. Since I did more than just a drain, the fluid dripped longer and I had to replace more than the 6 quarts +4 that the new pan held. 12 quarts total. It took a few miles driving and rechecking to completely fill the system and get it hot enough. Even though the gasket is reusable I replaced it because the service people at the Dodge dealership said they did and the $16 cost simply does not justify the risk IMO especially with the cost of AT+4.

The front and rear bands were LOOSE. About an inch of play. The truck shifts much quicker now and the shuttle shifting that had gotten to the point it was almost consistent is gone. Oo. The magnet in the stock pan had about an 1/8" sludge on it. Don't pick this magnet up without gloved hands. It will take a few rounds of hand washing to clean off that stuff:p

I also replaced this adapter
#ad

on the cooler line with an inline hose that was built with a sensor adapter built-in. There has been no real difference seen as of yet in temperature. (Empty, I never get above 120 degrees).
 
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