BTW, the equal balancing beads are a really bad idea for a truck camper application. We took the camper to my brother's in Tennessee and unloaded the camper in his driveway as we were staying there for a week. When I went to let air out of the rears so it rode a little better without the camper, one of the balancing beads got stuck in the valve stem, I couldn't get the valve stem to close. All the air came out, the tire went flat, and both beads came off the rim. Took a couple ratchet straps and some modification of his air chuck to get the beads sealed back on the rim.
I don’t use a slide-in but I do use beads and air my tires up and down all the time. A bead getting stuck in the valve stem core happens but less than 10% of the time. Often just pressuring the valve stem release all the way in and releasing will free the bead but if that doesn’t work a shot of compressed air with a tire chuck will clean it out. In all the times I’ve had a stuck bead only once did I have to pull the valve core out to clean it. I simply placed the rubber valve stem cap on after pulling the core and it stopped leaking.
So while it does happen it shouldn’t dissuade anyone from using them as the ride is so much better with them.
When I ran 19.5’s I used beads in my M608Z’s and they were very smooth, unlike a friend who had the same tires and a road force balance…3 times.
Correct payload but would not 99% of that 4000 going to be in the bed. So are we saying I can place a 4000 artic fix in my bed as well enough will be on the front wheels such that my stock rims at 3500 might be fine
It depends on where the CG is. If the CG is aft of the axle then it could actually put more than 4K lbs on the rear axle as it will pull some weight from the front axle. This is why a WDH is used on tongue heavy bumper pull trailers.
If you know the CG location, the wheelbase, and the weight you can calculate how much will go on the front and rear axles.
Ideally the CG would be forward of the axle to spread the load and help the handling characteristics.
Look at the newer Furds or the Tundra and you’ll notice how far back the axle is in the bed. This improves weight balance and weight on the front axle with a heavy payload.
While we discourage exceeding the
GVWR/payload rating of your truck, there is one little-known trick employed by more knowledgeable pickup truck owner’s to squeeze out even more cargo hauling capability out of their trucks. This involves the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWRs) of each truck. The GAWRs listed on each truck’s payload sticker are greatly limited by the OEM tires. If you research the actual GAWRs with the axle manufacturer you’ll probably be surprised to learn that you have several hundreds, if not thousands, of additional pounds of cargo carrying capacity (this is especially true with the AAM 11.5 rear axle found on our 2013 Ram 3500, which has a 10,000-pound GAWR rating, 3,000 pounds more than the GAWR given by FCA). You can tap into this additional cargo carrying capacity by simply buying better wheels and tires with higher load ratings. For example, the 275/70R18E Cooper Discoverer AT-XLT tires we bought for our truck have a 3,640 pound load rating; the Ion rims, 4,000 pounds each. Wheels and tires rated even higher than these can be purchased.
Yes the AAM 11.5 is rated at much more than the RAWR. The 2005 version was 10,120lbs and the axle has been upgraded several times since then.
That doesn’t mean you can load it that heavy thou, as there are other considerations such as suspension and frame ratings.
Basically regardless of the tires you run I wouldn’t exceed the RAWR of a DRW truck from the same generation. That’s really only an option on 265/70R19.5 tires or larger thou. 245/70R19.5 tires don’t often have the ratings to exceed OEM DRW ratings.
BTW: the factory axle limit is more than just the axle, it’s the truck as built and sold. So everything comes into play, the tires, suspension, brakes, frame, wheels, etc.
Luckily we know the differences SRW to DRW and can make some adjustments with the proper wheels and tires
As for the OEM wheel ratings they are what they are and you can’t do much about that. I’ve loaded my tires to 100-102% of their ratings which exceeds my wheel ratings but I haven’t lost sleep over it. The factory wheels are strong and I believe they are underrated but it’s not feasible for me to prove that.
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