Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Best pusher pump to run with lift pump???

[Six_Man_Diesel]

Gonna be adding a pump this week, was thinking a carter 15 or 7, which is best to run along with the factory pump?? Any advice is greatly appreciated.



Peace,

Willie

 

[Loren]

Willie,



Go with the lowest pressure pump you can find. All you need is something to supply positive pressure fuel to your lift pump.



If you search for fuel pressure problems, you'll find that the injection pump doesn't like high pressures much more than low pressures. Too high a pressure will result in hard starting when the engine is warm. There might also be some issues regarding seals in the injection pump.



I'm surprised that Steve St Laurent hasn't posted here. He installed the kit from Enterprise Engine Performance (740-246-6329 or )[url]www.enterpriseengine.com[/URL] and has been very happy with it. I have the same kit on my truck, and I like it also, with one exception. Don't use the clamp-on wire connector that they supply to hook to the lift pump wire. Make a secure connection with crimped fittings or solder. That connector left me stranded at midnight in the rain once.



Enterprise won't tell you which pump they are using in their kit, but I think it's the 7 psi Carter. It IS a Carter, I just don't know which one for sure.



Also, don't power your auxiliary pump directly from the lift pump wire. It doesn't supply enough current to power two pumps. The Enterprise kit comes with a relay so you can run a separate power wire.



Good luck with it all.

Loren

 

[Six_Man_Diesel]

Thanks for the reply man, ordered a guage setup, and #7 pump.



Peace,

Willie

 

[TomGolden]

I've been using the Carter 7 PSI pusher since May 2002, zero fuel system problems since I added it. According to my SPA fuel pressure gauge, I idle at 18 - 21 PSI, normal running speed is 13 - 16 PSI, and WOT I can drag it down to ~10 PSI.



I also replaced my OEM lift pump about a month before I added the pusher.



Tom

 

[Six_Man_Diesel]

I appreciate the reply. I know this subject has been absolutly murdered on these boards, but I just didn't find what i was looking for after an hour of searches, so I thought I would ask anyway. On last thing I couldn't find is what size rubber line fits over the OEM line on the frame rail?? Also, if you cut the OEM fuel line to tap into it, did you use a normal pipe cutter???



Peace,

Willie

 

[HeberRam]

Dat's the one!!!

Like the rest said above. . go with the Carter P4600HP 7psi, 100gph. . 3/8" NPT inlet & outlet... 40,000 miles, since first installed no problem todate... I bought an extra one about a year ago as a back up and so far never needed it... You can get these replacements, from Jegs or Summit Racing for about $70-73 last time I checked. .



Steve



P. S. Willie... locate as far back as possible to the tank where you plan to install the pump. . In my case I've got a short box, and mounted on the drivers side frame rail, just back of the center support for trans. . The guys with the long box have an easier place and more room from the tank... Use a pipe cutter and cut back close to the tank as possible, make sure you have a little room to work ( its tight on a short box) connect a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel line hose to the pump on the intake side of the pump, and do the same on the discharge side of the pump to the fuel line going to the lift pump. . I would recommend you purchase the kit from a vendor, as it should have the fuel line, clamps, pump, voltage regulator etc. You then only have to buy a replacement pump should you ever need one , and its only a 15min. change out. Oh, someone mention to use a direct connection instead scotch locks tapping into the lift pump harness is a "very good tip" as I too had a corrosion problem at the connection & thought my pump went out. .

 

[WadePatton]

I'm real happy with the Wildcat line/fitting upgrade I did. No wiring, no locating, just remove silly banjos, cut some SS lines and install adapters, AN-8 fittings, some 3/8 pushlok, and a hose clamp.



NO less than 7-8psi at 415 HP. OEM LP.



One less gauge to watch, nothing new mechanical/electric to care for.

 

[Loren]

Willie,



As Steve said, the fuel line is 3/8".



I used a stubby tubing cutter and didn't have to remove the fuel line from the frame or tank. I just took off enough fuel line mounts to give me the slack I needed to get the little cutter between the line and the frame. Be ready. Fuel will start running from the line the minute you cut it. It will run out both ends of the line until the fuel line to the engine (and maybe the filter canister) are drained. It may help to drain the filter canister first, although I didn't do that.



One more issue:

My pump came with instructions not to use ANY pipe dope or teflon tape of any kind on the threads. I installed it that way the first time and got a very small constant drip -- one or two drops on the garage floor after parking the truck overnight. If you get it really tight, it might work for you.



I thought I'd fix it by using teflon pipe dope. It didn't work. After trying several sealants, I finally got it to seal by using Loctite #242, Removable Threadlocker. This stuff used to be called Lock & Seal. Don't worry about using it. You can get the fittings apart fairly easily if you need to. I've done it.



Loren

 

[Six_Man_Diesel]

Thank you folks for all the help. It should be here from jegs sometime around tuesday. I have a nifty place to mount the FP Guage so that diesel in the cab shouldn't be as big of a concern, I just hope the AC line to the Shrader valve will hold up well, got it at Napa for like 12 bucks, heard where someone used that once, seems like a good idea seeing you can just screw it right on. Anyhow, I'll have pics when done, thank you all again.



Peace,

Willie

 

[hammersley]

What about the Kit from Brad

the FASS system found on page 101 of the latest TDR # 41. Seems to solve the problem.

 

[canblue]

Pump noise isolation required??

Do the secondary pumps make a lot of noise? Are there any kits to isolate the vibration directly from the frame mount , say like

a rubber mount? Any isolation mounts that can be "adjusted" ?

 

[TomGolden]

Re: Pump noise isolation required??

Originally posted by canblue

Do the secondary pumps make a lot of noise? Are there any kits to isolate the vibration directly from the frame mount , say like

a rubber mount? Any isolation mounts that can be "adjusted" ?

Yes, the pusher pumps are relatively LOUD. When I stop to get my mail, standing 5 feet away from the truck with engine idling, I can easily hear my pusher buzzing away. I had a piece of 1/4" thick rubber that is ribbed, like a floor matting sort of thing, and I just cut a piece about 2" x 2" and put it between the frame and the pusher pump. Been there for almost 18 months now, no problems yet...



Tom

 

[HeberRam]

Yea..

Like Tom said... I don't mind the noise, because I know it's working. . Oo. Oo.



Steve