Best steering tie rod replacements?

[EDankievitch]

Don’t waste your money on the BBC MOOG system. Go with the factory unit. Much better quality.

 

[cerberusiam]

You didn't say what's actually wrong with the T- Style.
For me and many more TDR Members it works just great and we wouldn't want to o back to the old Style.

The t-type introduced a dead spot over center and on direction change. As it wore more that became much more pronounced. Coupled with how close the tie rod need to be set to NOT break ends and the strain on the drag link end on the tie rod it was never as tight a feel as the y-type. Once the suspension\tire\wheel setup deviated from stock it all became more pronounced. The t-type components never did wear as well as the y-type, always replacing either the drag link to keep the slack out of the steering.

No idea why some think it works better and see no issues, never worked well for me on several trucks. Probably has to to do with the level of compensation one is willing to put up with on steering. I have seen people that had a basically stock truck and tried to drive mine were always over steering because it was much tighter and responsive, and, some of their trucks I would not have driven around the block as bad as they were. What is "good" and what is "bad" is simply too subjective to compare at times.

 

[Jim W]

I had to replace the tie rods at 82,000 miles when the passenger tie rod failed. I was very lucky that I was crossing a very server railroad crossing when the tie rod failed., as I was only going about 15 MPH when it happen.

At that time I had a choice between the Y-type that was on the truck or change to the T-type, new design. I kept the Y-type and I believe I went with the Moog-tie rod ends since I could grease them, I grease them every 5,000 miles. I now have 56.000 miles on them and I have not notice any steering slop.

 

[Regcabguy]

The t-type introduced a dead spot over center and on direction change. As it wore more that became much more pronounced. Coupled with how close the tie rod need to be set to NOT break ends and the strain on the drag link end on the tie rod it was never as tight a feel as the y-type. Once the suspension\tire\wheel setup deviated from stock it all became more pronounced. The t-type components never did wear as well as the y-type, always replacing either the drag link to keep the slack out of the steering.

No idea why some think it works better and see no issues, never worked well for me on several trucks. Probably has to to do with the level of compensation one is willing to put up with on steering. I have seen people that had a basically stock truck and tried to drive mine were always over steering because it was much tighter and responsive, and, some of their trucks I would not have driven around the block as bad as they were. What is "good" and what is "bad" is simply too subjective to compare at times.

I agree. As soon as I got the new T type "upgrade" the truck had more bump steer. I have the dead spot at 12 o'clock like you describe. I have the Synergy product now.

 

[EDankievitch]

I agree. As soon as I got the new T type "upgrade" the truck had more bump steer. I have the dead spot at 12 o'clock like you describe. I have the Synergy product now.

Did you update the pitment arm when you did the T style update? We found that the new style pitment arm makes a huge difference in Lessing the bump steer. We’ve also had very good luck with the new 08 T system. Two trucks had well over 150k miles and the tie rod ends were as tight as the day the kits were installed. One 04 and one 05. The one on my 2013 , the drag link got trashed along with the track bar and steering column when the truck developed a really bad case of the death wobble. I almost rolled the truck it got so out of control. But that’s another story.

 

[cerberusiam]

Pitman arm only helps marginally. When the drag link wears you still end up with slack in the steering. Every direction change cause the tire rod and drag link to rotate to the opposite stop because of how the leverage is on the tie rod. That just enhances the dead spot in the center and having to steer more on direction changes. Run it on roads that are inherently bad and the wear accelerates. Put a lift or leveling springs in it and good luck with the bump steer, once the suspension actually works instead of either being bound up or having minimal travel the road feel is crap. Tie rods wear well but not the drag link, to small for load on it.

So far the best feel and performance has been the 2014+ fast ratio large sector box, cross over steering, leveling springs, and double shocks on the front. Even then at 80-100k the high dollar ball joints are needing rebuilt due to the wear.

 

[Regcabguy]

Did you update the pitment arm when you did the T style update? We found that the new style pitment arm makes a huge difference in Lessing the bump steer. We’ve also had very good luck with the new 08 T system. Two trucks had well over 150k miles and the tie rod ends were as tight as the day the kits were installed. One 04 and one 05. The one on my 2013 , the drag link got trashed along with the track bar and steering column when the truck developed a really bad case of the death wobble. I almost rolled the truck it got so out of control. But that’s another story.

Yes it has the recommended pitman arm replacement.

 

[EDankievitch]

Yes it has the recommended pitman arm replacement.

Have you checked the steering shaft? There is a rubber coupling in the shaft just inside the firewall below the steering column. When I had the death wobble I tore the rubber along with the nylon bushings in the tilt wheel part of the column. I still have some play in the column but at least I can live with it now. I do agree nothing gives you the feedback of a cross over system like the 2014 and newer trucks have. I had the inverted Y system on my 05 and switched it over to the T system. I noticed my tires lasted longer. As the toe didn’t change when the truck bounced.
EMF has a good video on their website about the steering shaft.

 

[Motorhead]

I have seen the worn joint in "action" on my truck. I have seen the fix for the steering joint. Great idea!

 

[Blakers]

The original tie rod wore out on my '03 at about 150,000 miles. I ordered a new tie rod, drag link, and pitman arm for an '08 from an online Dodge dealer. It's been fine ever since, with over 150,000 miles on the new parts. I'm pretty sure I got the advice to switch to these parts on here.

 

[Motorhead]

Had the latest SYNERGY steering put in today. A friend of mine works there and did the install for me. I got lucky when I called a local dealer and they had the later, required pitman arm in stock. What a difference in steering response now. VERY high Quality parts and workmanship, I.M.H.O. Truck steers and feels better than new.

 

[tjm]

Well after reading all of this and talking to the folks at Thuren I decided to buy these items.

Track Bar

MOOG pitman arm

T style steering linkage

 

[Motorhead]

Who's track bar and "T" steering?

 

[tjm]

Who's track bar and "T" steering?

Thuren track bar - click on the link.

oem T steering - on amazon

 

[Motorhead]

Thuren track bar - click on the link.

oem T steering - on amazon

I saw that right after I posted. Sorry. You will appreciate the difference. I haven't replaced my original trac bar yet. Waiting for a Synergy.

 

[tjm]

I saw that right after I posted. Sorry. You will appreciate the difference. I haven't replaced my original trac bar yet. Waiting for a Synergy.

Yeah no worries MotorHead. I'll report back after all the installs are done

 

[Motorhead]

Anyone adjusted their steering box at the top on the steering box? Have done many on VW's, MBZ, earlier American cars but never the Dodge. I have just enough play that can be taken up with this adjustment. It is real hard to get to. I substantiated the play by FIRST, well securing the truck so I could get under it while it was running. I turned the input right at the steering box and felt the output. The pitman SHAFT that comes out of the steering box is dead tight so no play there.
Any tricks to adjusting the steering box?

 

[EDankievitch]

Anyone adjusted their steering box at the top on the steering box? Have done many on VW's, MBZ, earlier American cars but never the Dodge. I have just enough play that can be taken up with this adjustment. It is real hard to get to. I substantiated the play by FIRST, well securing the truck so I could get under it while it was running. I turned the input right at the steering box and felt the output. The pitman SHAFT that comes out of the steering box is dead tight so no play there.
Any tricks to adjusting the steering box?

I just adjusted the steering box on my truck. No it’s not easy. Had to remove the wheel well liner. I made sure the steering wheel was centered. I learned the hard way on another truck that if the wheel is not centered you can over adjust it, make it too tight. You need a box wrench that fits the jamb nut. I forgot the size. I used a 90 degree screwdriver to turn the backlash adjustment in. The box in my 2013 took almost 11/4 turns to take out the slip and not over load it. Was a pain as it’s not easy to get to. Once I got the slop out of the steering box I found my steering shaft and the U joint in my steering column were shot. EMS makes a nice bushing kit( that they include with their Ball joints) to repair the steering shaft coupling by your brake pedal. My Tilt column u joint was destroyed when I had a bad run in with the Death Wobble.

 

[GCroyle]

2WD guy here just interested.

Anybody got a pic of T vs Y layout?

Guaranteed no opinion here just passing time.

 

[GrantP]