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Best Towing Horse Power Setup??

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Stark_Ent9802

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Truck is a 2002 3500 4x4 with 45k . I'm towing a 34' long 10,000 lb 5th wheel toy hauler. The Truck Has an Air Dog lift pump 13-16 psi constant, 4" exhuast, and i have been using an Edge ez for a little extra hp, and Tq. Everything eles is stock. I tried a smarty and did not really like the way it performed + it caused dead pedal and a 216 code. The Vp is now new though. I would like to know if there is a good combination of injectors and a mild fueling box that help get the 5'er to the campground alittle quicker. As of right now I don't plan on updating the turbo and transmission, due to the fact that I may spring for a 2010 3500 mega cab, later this fall or winter. I do plan to use the trailer atleast 5 more times this season, so spending alittle money on injectors is not out of the question.



What do you guys use?
 
I have the same year truck with edge ez. I like the power pulling combo. I tow 10-12,000 often with no problems for me. I do have a 5sp. It does tow differently. My friend has the same year with auto. With these weights I could tow 70mph no probs. Most climbs I can keep in 5th while the 6% or greater climbs require an occasional downshift. I'm pleased with that. However, I'm not pulling a box through air. When I pull my TT weighing at only 7500lbs it "feels" just as heavy as the 12,000lbs trailer with skidsteer. So maybe your 10,000lbs 5th wheel "feels" a lot heavier due to drag and perhaps isn't the best comparison. Hopefully someone with your setup will comment but I'd think you would be able to pull that weight no problem.
 
Truck is a 2002 3500 4x4 with 45k . I'm towing a 34' long 10,000 lb 5th wheel toy hauler. The Truck Has an Air Dog lift pump 13-16 psi constant, 4" exhuast, and i have been using an Edge ez for a little extra hp, and Tq. Everything eles is stock. I tried a smarty and did not really like the way it performed + it caused dead pedal and a 216 code. The Vp is now new though. I would like to know if there is a good combination of injectors and a mild fueling box that help get the 5'er to the campground alittle quicker. As of right now I don't plan on updating the turbo and transmission, due to the fact that I may spring for a 2010 3500 mega cab, later this fall or winter. I do plan to use the trailer atleast 5 more times this season, so spending alittle money on injectors is not out of the question.



What do you guys use?

:-laf I can guarenty the smarty did not cause a dead pedal or 216.

A set of small injectors will put the hp up a notch but you will have to monitor EGTs .
 
I have a set of BOSCH 275 rv injectors w/ a VanAaken smartbox and have towed a 12500 lb 5er for 50-60 k miles and at times I'd like more power , but I think it would start getting expensive. :eek:

As others have said,"it's a slippery slope" ;)
 
Truck is a 2002 3500 4x4 with 45k . I'm towing a 34' long 10,000 lb 5th wheel toy hauler. The Truck Has an Air Dog lift pump 13-16 psi constant, 4" exhuast, and i have been using an Edge ez for a little extra hp, and Tq. Everything eles is stock. I tried a smarty and did not really like the way it performed + it caused dead pedal and a 216 code. The Vp is now new though. I would like to know if there is a good combination of injectors and a mild fueling box that help get the 5'er to the campground alittle quicker. As of right now I don't plan on updating the turbo and transmission, due to the fact that I may spring for a 2010 3500 mega cab, later this fall or winter. I do plan to use the trailer atleast 5 more times this season, so spending alittle money on injectors is not out of the question.



What do you guys use?







Please don't blame the smarty on a failing vp44 injection pump. The smarty fueling parameters stay within the stock vp44 limits.



The pump is your issue and always known to be a weak link in the 98-02 trucks



Stock pump here with the smarty on my 2001 for 5 years
 
Ok well how would you take it if you had a STOCK (except Air dog lift pump) truck with only 40k and never had a issues with the injection pump when driving normal, and towing. Then after installing a smarty and setting it on level 2,3 or 4 (don't remember which i was running) , I was Traveling up a steep hill and went to give the truck more pedal and totally lost power, and that happend 3 times from CT to Vermont. After the 3rd time I disconnected the smarty, and never had dead pedal. That is why i was dissapointed with the smarty when towing.
 
don't know about the smarty, I agree you'll need to watch your egt's if you change injectors, you ought to be able to pull what you have with your present setup, if you don't want to go with a turbo (mine changed my life forever) and are thinking of trading I wouldn't change anything unless it was the air box to get more cool air in, other than an air box you might just be starting more issues
 
To me, the BEST power level involves lots more than just the engine alone. "Best Power" is power that can be run for extended periods of time, under the full load the vehicle is designed for, without over stressing any of the REST of the drivetrain or vehicle. Power that is only usable in short spurts might be fine at a dragstrip - but can be pretty useless heavily loaded up a long, steep grade! :eek:



Power that develops excessive EGT - or seriously exceed the ability of the transmission, U-joints and differential seems sorta pointless! ;)



In my own case, I figured the power level displayed in my sig was as far as I wanted to expose the rest of my truck to - and the power displayed, and the items used to obtain it - is available as long as I want it, without any engine overheating in the EGT or coolant system.



I prefer relaxed towing under as many situations as possible - white-knuckle towing takes all the fun outta the trip... ;)
 
Ok well how would you take it if you had a STOCK (except Air dog lift pump) truck with only 40k and never had a issues with the injection pump when driving normal, and towing. Then after installing a smarty and setting it on level 2,3 or 4 (don't remember which i was running) , I was Traveling up a steep hill and went to give the truck more pedal and totally lost power, and that happend 3 times from CT to Vermont. After the 3rd time I disconnected the smarty, and never had dead pedal. That is why i was dissapointed with the smarty when towing.



Very simple... ... ... every part has a given life span. I have replaced vp's as low as 15k miles. Without a tapped wire you can not blame a box. The 216 is a timing failure code. Very common... ... The pump can not vary the timing as quick as it is commanded and the code is set.
 
I ran just the Edge JWA for a long time before installing Jammer 2 injectors. If I had it to do again, I would have used DDP 40s or RV275s. I don't like the smoke I get even with the box turned down. I think the best towing setup that I've had was the box only. However, if you have an auto, I feel pretty certain that you'll have problems if you add any more power and try to use it pulling the weight you're talking about.
 
Remember a stock auto will normally only handle one power upgrade. Add a second an you are putting 4-6K in the transmission! Leave it alone and wait for the new truck. SNOKING
 
I am not trying to pile on the SMARTY, but, although it may be setup to stay within the limits of the VP44, it isn't set up to stay within the limitations of the lift pump, which is the real issue with VP44 premature failure. In fairness though, I don't think any other "power adders", electronic or otherwise, are setup to stay within limits of the weak stock lift pump.
 
Regarding the failure of VP44, they all were bad on later 2nd gens with the brass bore. Mine went at 52K. A 2002 should have had a 7/100K warranty.

Snoking
 
Since we are talking about towing power, I am thinking about a BD Super B single or a HX35 hybrid. I am leaning towards the BD Super B, they both require a new downpipe and are close to the same money. Am I thinking right with my choice? If not, please let me know. Thanks!
 
I am not trying to pile on the SMARTY, but, although it may be setup to stay within the limits of the VP44, it isn't set up to stay within the limitations of the lift pump, which is the real issue with VP44 premature failure. In fairness though, I don't think any other "power adders", electronic or otherwise, are setup to stay within limits of the weak stock lift pump.



I am still running the stock lift pump with Mach 4 (150hp) injectors and the smarty. 405 hp and zero fuel pressure issues. Works for me for several years now.
 
Keep it like it is! That way you will not tear up any thing. A transmission is a large amount of money.
 
I just installed the rv275's in my o2 2500 HO 6 sp. all stock except exhaust 4" Banks. I also had a low pressure light installed. When I lay into the pedal with the fifth wheel in tow, the light starts to blink. The FASS pump is next. but I love the injectors. A very small amount of smoke before the turbo spools. only one EGT issue, I had to slow down for a tractor Trailer in PA, then tried to go up the hill in 6th gear. EGT's hit 1250 and I got nervous, drop a gear, pick up speed, no more problems. otherwise all across PA never went over 1200. great power.
 
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