Best u joints?

[cclark746]

I recently installed all Precision greaseables in my truck - got a great deal from Rock Auto and their site is very easy to navigate in getting the right ones for all positions on the vehicle - I replaced all 7 on my truck at once and I had 98,000 - none were actually bad, but had it all apart rebuilding front axle so why not?

I see you have a 6spd right? Rock auto could not help me I called them as well. I need joints for a Automatic 4x4 2500 megacab 5. 9 grease able.

 

[Kirwin]

Sorry for the confusion cclark746

I guess I should have quoted the email first. Dan runs Quad 4X4 in Roberts MT. For an automatic rear shaft you need a QK3041 for a 2 joint rear shaft or a QK3042 for the 3 joint rear shaft. This is quoted from their website: (Quad4X4.com)







"Rear Universal Joint Kits for 2003-up for in 2500 and 3500 with Diesel or V10 engines. 2003 and newer trucks come with two sizes of external snap ring universal joints. Generally, trucks with 6 speed transmissions and 3 joint rear shafts use 1485 series AAM style u-joints. Most other Dodge 2500 and 3500 trucks use 1415 joints. To Identify the joints your truck has, measure the diameter of the u-joint cap. 1415 joints have 1. 188" (1-3/16") caps. AAM 1485 series joints have 1. 375" (1-3/8") caps. 1415 series u-joints are Made in China. 1485 series are Genuine AAM Joints Made in Mexico (AAM manufactured all the propeller shafts in these trucks regardless of joint design. ) "



Sorry for any confusion I may have caused. The QK3040 is for 6 speed trucks that use the larger 1485 series joint. Ken Irwin

 

[Yo Hoot]

The Quad 4x4 site seems to have outdated technical data as they refer to "only one manufacturer as of March 2007" having joints available for the rear prop. They also state that if the joint are a tight fit, end to end after installing the clips, it WILL lead to premature failure. I am skeptical about that statement. Maybe if they were so tight that you couldn't turn the joint by hand.

I saw on another site where a fellow had been using greasable joints and claimed he maintained them but the grease wasn't getting to the joints or the grease was somehow disappearing because he showed pictures of bad joints that were dry... yet greasable.

I just replaced my rear prop u-joints yesterday on my 04. I used Precision 295A's that are greasable from the end of one of the bearing caps. This apparently makes them stronger since there is no hole in the cross. Actually they use the same cross because the casting bump is there but undrilled.

They were easy getting out using the socket hammer method but now after talking to a friend who's a professional rock crawler and has changed many u-joints, he says beating the crap out of the ears is bad news as you are likely to tweek the ears... even . 010" can create an install issue. He said he found the best method for him was to cut the cross out with an abrasive wheel and knock each cap out individually while supporting the back side of each ear.

Low and behold, when installing the joints I did run into two ends where I could not get the snap ring in. I figured it was the trunions too wide so I ground them down a little. Pain because I had to remove the already installed brand new joint without damaging the seals.

Here is where I noticed something with the grease path. It looked like the ends of the trunnions were flat and had the grease hole in the center. I don't remember seeing any kind of a groove when I ground the ends. How is the grease supposed to get through without a path if the caps close off the ends, especially if you have a tight one?

Possibly Precision is relying on a small gap on both ends but if the ears get tweeked that gap can get closed.

Unfortunately I didn't realize this until I was done the job and thought about it while greasing them. I probably would have ground a groove.

So a little bit of advice. If you have the skills and tools to measure the inside width of the ears prior to removing the joint and you want to pound them out, measure and record. This way you can check afterwards to see if they spread or closed up on you

 

[rbattelle]

Yo Hoot, don't be too concerned. I too had to grind down the clips a bit on my rear driveshaft joints to get them to fit.

Back when I was learning to change u-joints I was taught to grease them until grease flows out from all 4 seals. This is the only way to be certain that all 4 caps have grease in them.

As for your idea of cutting a groove, I like it, but I see a potential problem. The area of the spider under the cap is a bearing surface. If you grind channels in the ends you run the risk of putting burs or imperfections in the surface that could grab the bearing rollers as they pass by. This may be why they're not grooved from the factory.

Still, it might be a great idea. Might be nice to try it out on one joint and see what happens. As you say, I think Precision relies on a small gap between the end of the spider and the inside of the cap.

-Ryan

 

[steved]

Yo Hoot, don't be too concerned. I too had to grind down the clips a bit on my rear driveshaft joints to get them to fit.



Back when I was learning to change u-joints I was taught to grease them until grease flows out from all 4 seals. This is the only way to be certain that all 4 caps have grease in them.



As for your idea of cutting a groove, I like it, but I see a potential problem. The area of the spider under the cap is a bearing surface. If you grind channels in the ends you run the risk of putting burs or imperfections in the surface that could grab the bearing rollers as they pass by. This may be why they're not grooved from the factory.



Still, it might be a great idea. Might be nice to try it out on one joint and see what happens. As you say, I think Precision relies on a small gap between the end of the spider and the inside of the cap.



-Ryan

Almost every greaseable joint I've seen apart had either a groove in the end of the cross or in the inside of the cap itself to allow grease to flow to the bearings...

 

[Yo Hoot]

I never looked in the cap. Interesting. Thanks all.

 

[rbattelle]

Almost every greaseable joint I've seen apart had either a groove in the end of the cross or in the inside of the cap itself to allow grease to flow to the bearings...

Now that you mention it, I think I've noticed some grooves on the underside of the cap. Still, it sure is difficult to get grease to flow into those caps when they're tight.



-Ryan

 

[BIGNASTY]

Rock auto 3 for $53 and change Precision super duty grease kind of U joint. No problems putting them in like in some of the other post's. Dont know if theres are different than mine or not

 

[cclark746]

330a is precisions number just changed all three rear one they are all the same. 24. 99 at napa.

 

[Yo Hoot]

I'm putting the Spicer 5006813's in my front axles. $62 a piece.

I never saw a seal system as tight as these. It's hard as heck just to pull one of the bearing caps off. The instruction sheet said not to mix the caps up because each one is precisely filled and variances could alter grease qty. That's pretty accurate. Not sure if it really does anything for you though. I do know this, when I replaced the stock joints in my driveshaft, the front joint was good. . all caps had grease. The rear joint, only one cap was dry and there was visible damage to the seal. Bottom line, a good sealed non-greasable joint should last a very long time as long as the grease doesn't get out or become contaminated. That's why I went with these.

Part of the Spicer Life series of replacement parts, these 1485WJ series u-joints never need greasing due to the bevelled trunion and triple lip seal that is incorporated in the bearing cap. This design also eliminates water contamination. These come pre-greased with a high quality grease and are non-greasable for higher strength than hollow bodied greasable joints.

These are designed specifically for the AAM 9. 25 front axle used in 2003-2009 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 trucks.

Specifications:

K1) Snap Ring Dim. 2. 920
D1) Bearing Cap Dia. 1. 375
K2) Snap Ring Dim. 2. 920
D2) Bearing Cap Dia. 1. 375
OEM Mfg. AAM
OEM Series 1485WJ

#ad

 

[Skyd Ram]

FYI- Both Spicer and Neapco have specific joint for the 1485WJ used in the front axle shafts.



As far as whether or not greasable u-joints can break I haven't seen the rears break very often but the front u-joint at the pinion is a weak point. The joints in the front axleshafts are the most likely to break because the torque is multiplied by the differential at this point and because of the more extreme angles that they are expected to operate at. Losing and quickly gaining traction is the usual cause for a broken joint such as trying to get unstuck in snow/ice/mud/sand. When a axle shaft joint fails it will usuallt take out the outer axleshaft and sometimes the inner as well. Since our front ends are full time they truck is a stranded and needs to be towed until repaired. I have had more than a few customers in this situation. The guy with the Free Spin kit was able to drive his truck until he replaced all of the broken parts.



As far as greasable joints go, weak point from the grease zerk hole aside, to allow them to be greased they have to have very loose seals which allows water and contaminent intrusion. You are also relying on a single grease point to effectively grease 4 bearings and the pressurized grease is going to take the path of least resistance. You will end up greasing 1 or 2 of the bearing caps well and the others not so much. This is why you will find one of the bearings totally dried out while the others are fine on a failed greasable joint.

 

[Skyd Ram]

Double Post?????

 

[Yo Hoot]

FYI- Both Spicer and Neapco have specific joint for the 1485WJ used in the front axle shafts.

As far as whether or not greasable u-joints can break I haven't seen the rears break very often but the front u-joint at the pinion is a weak point. The joints in the front axleshafts are the most likely to break because the torque is multiplied by the differential at this point and because of the more extreme angles that they are expected to operate at. Losing and quickly gaining traction is the usual cause for a broken joint such as trying to get unstuck in snow/ice/mud/sand. When a axle shaft joint fails it will usuallt take out the outer axleshaft and sometimes the inner as well. Since our front ends are full time they truck is a stranded and needs to be towed until repaired. I have had more than a few customers in this situation. The guy with the Free Spin kit was able to drive his truck until he replaced all of the broken parts.

As far as greasable joints go, weak point from the grease zerk hole aside, to allow them to be greased they have to have very loose seals which makes water and contaminent intrusion. You are also relying on a single grease point to effectively grease 4 bearings and the pressurized grease is going to take the path of less resistance. You will end up greasing 1 or 2 of the bearing caps well and th others not so much. This is why you will find one of the bearings totalling dried out while the others are fine on a failed greasable joint.

Yes... that is the one I just showed you... the Spicer 5006813 specific for our truck. Non-greasable and no hollow passageways to weaken the joint. I changed the font to bold and red in my last post so you could see it
I don't think there is anything out there better right now for the price.

 

[Skyd Ram]

Yes... that is the one I just showed you... the Spicer 5006813 specific for our truck. Non-greasable and no hollow passageways to weaken the joint. I changed the font to bold and red in my last post so you could see it

I don't think there is anything out there better right now for the price.

Sorry,

I didn't see your post before I put up my post.



It's pretty funny that you quoted the info from my website and used the pic from Northern Drivetrain. Oo.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Sorry,
I didn't see your post before I put up my post.

It's pretty funny that you quoted the info from my website and used the pic from Northern Drivetrain. Oo.

Sorry about that. I didn't know it was your web site. The picture at Northern was smaller so it fit better... so did the price :-laf

BTW I don't run any business or sponsor anyone.

 

[Skyd Ram]

Sorry about that. I didn't know it was your web site. The picture at Northern was smaller so it fit better... so did the price :-laf



BTW I don't run any business or sponsor anyone.

No Problem,

I just recognized the wording.

 

[rbattelle]

Bottom line, a good sealed non-greasable joint should last a very long time as long as the grease doesn't get out or become contaminated.

I agree. As much as we (me included) bash non-greaseable joints, not having a place for the operator to pump bad grease and/or contaminants in can be a good thing. And so long as they don't leak any grease or oil, they can last longer than neglected or poorly-greased greaseable joints.

Nevertheless, I still like greaseables when they're properly greased because theoretically lifespan is not limited by grease life.

to allow them to be greased they have to have very loose seals which allows water and contaminent intrusion. You are also relying on a single grease point to effectively grease 4 bearings and the pressurized grease is going to take the path of least resistance. You will end up greasing 1 or 2 of the bearing caps well and the others not so much. This is why you will find one of the bearings totally dried out while the others are fine on a failed greasable joint.

As far as the seals go, my logic is to keep them so full of grease that there's no room for anything else to get in there.

Your comments on greasing 1 or 2 of the caps are the reason I pump until grease gushes from all 4 caps. Doing so also forces out any grit that may have accumulated since the last grease job.

-Ryan

 

[steved]

I agree. As much as we (me included) bash non-greaseable joints, not having a place for the operator to pump bad grease and/or contaminants in can be a good thing. And so long as they don't leak any grease or oil, they can last longer than neglected or poorly-greased greaseable joints.



Nevertheless, I still like greaseables when they're properly greased because theoretically lifespan is not limited by grease life.







As far as the seals go, my logic is to keep them so full of grease that there's no room for anything else to get in there.



Your comments on greasing 1 or 2 of the caps are the reason I pump until grease gushes from all 4 caps. Doing so also forces out any grit that may have accumulated since the last grease job.



-Ryan

Same thoughts here...



Grease has a finite life expectancy and forcing grease into a joint forces contaminants out. Seals wear and eventually fail, period... I don't care if my seals are "loose" as I can add grease every other day if I desire.



If you have one with a pin not taking grease, then it may not have been serviced, or even installed, correctly.

 

[RChriste]

I was going to do U joints and carrier bearing on my rear drive line and after doing some research decided to do a 1pc instead. I have not done it yet but know people who have with great results, all vibrations are gone and they seem to spend about $500 for one, If you look at the labor to rebuild a 2 piece plus parts its probably gonna be about the some price.

I suppose a lot depends on whether you do your own labor or what labor costs you, but I just rebuilt my three piece shaft yesterday and there was nothing complicated about it, although I do have torches and tools. Total cost in parts was $17. 99 x 3 for Neapco Brute Force Sealed U joints with lifetime warranty(Advance Auto) and 45. 99 for a Torque Technologies carrier bearing through Fleetpride, so I've got $108 in parts when you add in the obligatory NYS sales tax. I feel like I saved myself 400 bucks compared to the guys who buy a new one piece shaft and my ride is smooth, smooth, smooth!



FWIW, I started using Neapco and the Brute Force joints before I started reading these forums and subsequently realizing that they must be no good based on most of what I've read. I gonna stick with them anyway. I figure if I can get 80 - 100k out of them, I can't really complain for what they cost.