Best washer diameter for Pod injector installation

[MSilva]

Tim1,Bob and everyone else thanks for your help. I don't mean to

have so many questions but I am just learning how to have fun

with these trucks. Does anyone think I can smoke my Brother in laws 2000 crew cab 4x4 chipped Powerstoke now that I have

these Pods installed. He talks so high and mighty about his F250

that it would do him some good to be humbled buy a 14 year old

Dodge



Tim1

mopar2ya turned up my pump advanced my timing adjusted for

smoke etc and helped me install the 16cm housing. The Pods were done today in which I did my self. I did not know I had it in me. I thought getting the old ones out would whoop me, but I managed. Earlier in the Thread you said your pods made a haze smoke at idle. I guess this is normal?

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

The haze is part of the beast... sorry...

As for the idle... hmmmm I'm thinking that you might kill two birds with one stone here..... your idle and your buddy with the Ford.

If you're wanting to try this solution, just tweak on the full fuel screw... . that will raise your idle and your likelyhood of wooping the Ford...

Now if you want to use the idle screw look here... .

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=2998&width=2



The locknut is 10mm (a 1/4" deep socket to reach it) and then turn the idle screw in.

Look at the pictures in my VE gallery of pictures.

As you turn in the idle screw keep an eye on the breakover spring too. (see the pictures) if it needs adjustment you loosen the two locknuts on the threaded throttle rod, shorten a bit and then tighten the locknuts. If it's only a bit of idle adjustment you won't need to do this.



Using the thinner washers will help reduce the idle haze. In the process it may help mileage but I'm not going to bet on that. The reasoning I have is if it helps reduce haze and improves the burning process it should make a bit of difference with the mileage/power factors. On the other side of this is I can't see it being that big of a factor to really show a measureable mileage difference.



Pastor Bob.

 

[MSilva]

Thanks Bob,

Will give it a try when time permits.

 

[MSilva]

Bob

How much should I turn the full fuel screw up to enable me to cook a Powerstroke? Do I do it with the engine running or off? Killing Two birds with one stone would be great.

Also I would like to mention that I have a lot of acceleration but still cant light up the rears from a dead stop without power breaking. I can burn rubber into a turn. Should I be able to achieve this with the Pods? Which way do you turn the full fuel screw clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

MSilva,



Your stock auto is the big holdback... you can push right thru that thing...

First you should confirm that AFC diaphram is set to max fueling. Have you done that?? Do you know how??

Next I'd back the governor screw out about 3 turns if that is still stock too.

The full fuel screw is easier to do with the engine off.

The screw is held in place by a 13mm locknut. The firewall end of that screw is usally a 6mm hex head.

Assuming you've removed the tamper cover, you need to loosen the locknut off and turn the screw clockwise when viewing it from the firewall end.

I suggest you turn it one turn and tighten it up, then start the truck and check your idle. It may have gone up to or above the normal 750-800 RPM.

If you turn that screw and it suddenly gets tight to turn, back it out about 1/4 turn. At this point you are getting close to possible runaway.

If the truck starts ok (and it should) after your oil pressure comes up, blip the throttle a few times and listen/watch the tach.

The RPM should drop down to idle value right away... . if it kinda hangs up for a bit, then slowly drops, you are close to runaway pump... . back the screw out another 1/4 turn.

Normally once you reach a certain point the idle will start to increase with each adjustment upward of the fuel screw. If you go too far you'll have an idle that is too high for your auto transmission to take when you put it in gear. It'll bang into gear pretty hard.

The reason the idle keeps going up is the screw is fooling the governor.

Depending on your pump you could make some decent HP and smoke. Remember too much of that can wear a transmission out.



Your biggest threat is the darn lockup convertors... since you and I do not have a lockup convertor, you're going to have to butt whip him fast using the first 3 gears and hang on into OD. Eventually the lockup convertor in the "F***" will catch up and it will be a fun fender race... .

OH, make note of your orginal settings so you can return to "normal" whatever that is... ...



Ahhh heck, just phone me and we can go thru it..... anytime after 7:00-7:30 PM west coast.

I'll PM you my home number... .





Pastor Bob.

 

[Greenleaf]

Light 'em Up!!

The largest contributor toward smoken the tires was by far the throttle and pump linkage mods. This had to be done even after the new turbo housing/POD injectors.



I had read that guys were having troubles with the pump lever hitting the fuel inlet pipe Huh????? My lever did not come close to this pipe.



Now I know the secret to full throttle



I said it once, I'll say it again... .

Best have it pointed in a safe direction when hitting the throttle



Scott

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

"..... Now I know the secret to full throttle... . "



Ahhhhhhhh... ... ... no you don't... at least not yet



Pastor Bob

 

[banzaitoyota]

Hear me as I pray to the shrine at the "Our Lady of Perpetual Motion". Oh Lord, please besthow the secret of the GO-FAST pedal whilst sparing me the agony of a of a rod thru tho block!

 

[btoscano]

Hey guys,



I am wondering if the copper washers are reusable? The shop that tested my injectors said I didn't need new washers, just clean up the old ones??? Is this good advise? They said best timing is with dial indicator but reuse the washers...