best way to change fuel filter

[CSchoepp]

I searched the forum but all I could find was that it needs to be done sooner rather than later. Should it be done from the top or bottom? Are there any bits that can be removed to make it easier? My arms are too short to do it from the bottom (and it's winter, and I don't have a shop).



Thanks

Clint

 

[pepecat]

From the top, definitely not from the bottom... you can fit a filter strap on there. make sure the heater stays on there, as well as the fuel filter stud. Beware that there is a rubber square o ring on top of the heater filter between it and the head.

 

[Bluebird]

Fill the filter with fuel treatment/additive/clean diesel fuel, and don't spill a drop... he, he, haw haw, seriously it's a mantainence art. When you fire 'er up let it run at least three minutes or just take that test drive to make sure system has primed-up, no leaks and no air trapped anywhere. If it does not start right a way, do not keep cranking engine, or pumping the pedal, RESEARCH injection bleeding proceedures, then it will start right up! (or see below)



Patrick (see my latest posts: "Lost prime... ")

I changed fuel filters for years then did something stupid.

 

[BGore]

I've always changed it from the top. Never had to use a filter wrench on the fuel and oil filters and never had a problem with leaking.

I just took the old fuel filter off, took the water sensor off, changed the o-rings on the top and bottom, put the new one on and screwed it in until it was almost tight, backed it off a little. Then used the lever on the fuel pump to fill it. For me about 15 or 20 pumps fills it. Once the fuel started to spill out, tightened it up, and it's good to go!

I've changed the fuel filter using this method probably close to 30 times without an issue so far.

Good luck!

 

[ekroman]

Don't forget to laugh a lot at your friends with 2nd and 3rd generation trucks. I love changing the filter on my first gen, it's the easiest one I've ever done.



Eddie

 

[glhs]

It's pretty simple. Ten minute job tops!



While unscrewing and screwing back on, watch the harness for the water seperator; don't let them get twisted around too much.



If it's that cold out, change it after it's warmed up.



Standing on a block of wood or tire helps too.

 

[CSchoepp]

Thanks for all your replies, fellas. The filter is changed but the truck still won't start. If it stalled while running due to fuel gelling, in addition to priming the filter and bleeding at the fuel filter housing (the banjo bolt that goes to the VE), will I need to crack the injectors to get it to start? That or the fuel solenoid are the only things I can think of, as the injection pump was rebuilt last Jan.



Clint

 

[PToombs]

Yup, crack several injectors open and bleed them out. If it doesn't start after that, pull the guts out of the solenoid and try to start it. If it starts, you found the problem!

 

[Dieselman359]

Any time that I change a fuel filter in a Diesel, I like to keep my foot into the throttle. If the truck starts... great, however once in a while you will have some air in the lines and it will die. If you give it a little fuel while you are cranking and once it starts, your lift pump will start flowin' some fuel and hopefully keep ya going.



I had a problem last month with this, I'd fill the filter, start the truck, and it would die. With help from dad pressurizing the fuel tank I could get it started again, however with my foot on the floor it was probably only running maybe 1000RPM. Long story short, my situation turned out to be gelled fuel in the pickup/strainer in the tank. :{ Have any of ya'll tried to drop the tank about 1/2 full. #@$%!

 

[BGore]

I'm probably going to give myself some bad karma here, but in 17 years or running diesel trucks I've NEVER had a problem with gelling fuel. Not sure why, because it seems like most other people have had it at one time or another.



I don't really pick and choose where I buy it, and don't routinely run treatment mixed in with the fuel. I do occasionally run a can of conditioner/cleaner through, but only every 5K miles or so. Other than that, I change my fuel filter every third oil change, and ... well ... that's all!



Maybe it's the winter blend we have here that keeps it flowing, I don't know. I do know when they swap to the winter blend fuel because I tend to lose about 2-3 mpg, but I suppose it's worth it to make sure it keeps flowing.



One of the things I've always loved about my 1st gen is that as long as I had a good battery in it it would ALWAYS start, even on the coldest mornings. Might run a little rough for a short bit, but then be fine. I worked the night shift and didn't have a place to plug in the block heater, but even then she would always start, and I would run around the parking lot jump starting gassers.



There was only ONE time it didn't start for me ... I was on vacation at a friend's house on a really cold winter week. It was about -30F, with the wind howling about 30 or 40 mph all night across the field where my truck was parked. I had a cord for the block heater ready, in case, but I wanted to see what she would do, since I didn't really have anywhere I had to go. The oil in the crankcase was so stiff it didn't even turn over. No big surprise there. I probably should have put lighter weight oil in, but I still had 15-40 in it.



20 minutes on the block heater, and she was running.

 

[Dieselman359]

Sorry, for those that don't know, I might of forgotten to mention that my gelling issue was due to Biodiesel. We process our own fuel and I didn't have enough petro mixed with the bio. Like BGore stated, I also have never experienced gelling issues with pump fuel.