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Better brakes for '92?

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Not dodge related

Timing Help

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I have increased my ability to accelerate. But now I would like to work on the front brakes. I still have the stock front axle (dana 60?). My brakes work well, I have new pads, rotors were turned and I have new lines. But it seems to take alot of pressure on the pedal to dog it down. I drove a larger ford truck sunday and his brakes took alot less effort. I've looked into changing front axles but they all seem to drive on the other side. Any easy fixes?



RonA
 
I wouldn't mess with your front axle... it's a tough unit and you'll never kill it.



As for the brakes. One of the most basic upgrades guys do is to find the bigger 350 rear drums.



After that, the EGR disc brakes are the best that I've come across.



And as for your "increase in acceleration"... HOLY CRAP MAN! A p-pumped 24v is really something... nice work man.
 
Actually, the 250 and 350 have the same rear drums; been there, done that. The only thing you need to change is the wheel cylinders (there is a debate as to whether the 1" or 1-3/8" cylinders are best- bigger ones to make more clamping force on the bigger shoes) and shoes; everything else fits into place. No changes needed to holddown springs, back plate, etc. At least that's how MY 92 was. But you should get the drums turned when you go to 3" shoes, to make an even friction surface for the new brakes. AS for the pedal effort, how is your booster? Just a thought. I've had trouble with the pedal being muchy, and had reasonable success with sythetic fluid. Have to wait and see... . How old was the "bigger Ford?" If it was a 98-02 or so, it was an apples to oranges comparison; also the old F-Superduty had 14" rear discs; another apples to oranges comparison. I will admit, the brakes on these trucks can be less than awe inspiring. :rolleyes:



CB- you got power/ air/ fuel- flow envy? ;)



Daniel
 
Aw, he!!, I didnt think to look at your sig and see the D80. I'm not real sure about that. I think they are 13x3, but dont quote me. Wheel cylinders should match up, no matter what the bore in them. If the rears dont do their share, the fronts will warp rotors, eat pads, etc. Think there was a TSB about that a few years back, relating to fast wearing fronts, and non wearing rears.

-DP
 
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