Competition BIG RPM's

[COMP461]

I have had a rack hang on me on the jack stands, and the motor went to 6050. And stayed there till we unhooked a fuel line. Now I have a shut off, but the motor stayed there for about 45 + second, because that’s how long the computer sampled, till it cycled off. This was a stock rod, piston with nothing more then a balance job. The valve train stayed together, thanks to some good valve springs. And I as a precaution checked bearings. They looked great.

 

[Morse]

My bottom end isn't balanced. . I just bought a big brother turbo to run with the sledpuller. . I just didn't know what the conservative limit might be. Building this truck has been an uphill climb on the ole wallet. . If I threw a rod, it would be sitting for quite a while. .

 

[Todd T]

I have had a rack hang on me on the jack stands, and the motor went to 6050. And stayed there till we unhooked a fuel line. Now I have a shut off, but the motor stayed there for about 45 + second, because that’s how long the computer sampled, till it cycled off. This was a stock rod, piston with nothing more then a balance job. The valve train stayed together, thanks to some good valve springs. And I as a precaution checked bearings. They looked great.

Yeah gee thanks, My mustang did that once when the floor mat got stuck. what's your point. You go from i'm better than you my-me-my goes faster than you "little" people to this? what did DR. P forget his meds today and the little puppet is wiggin out from it?



RD if you want to learn about high RPM's and what parts are effected you need look no further west than the Indiana or Ohio area. or for that matter PA. they've been doing 5-6K at the "little" diesel truck pulls for years.



And they know who they are... ... ... so i dont have to be bombastic and list them along with the preceding sentence.

 

[Piston Slapper]

By stock bottom end, I assume you mean balanced, right? I was under the impression that without balancing, these engines were only good to 4300 or so...

Chris

Only the connecting rods were balanced. However like mentioned above many people have been turning 5-6k for years.



We turned ours many times high 4's before we rebuilt it(only had plate, injectors, springs and heavier valve springs). We just couldn't complain that a main bearing went out after what we had put it through. Daily 10,000lb driver and weekend sled puller till we retired her from her day job to just pull. Thats when we balanced the rods and installed fresh everything w/ the cam. She'll spin on up now. We've done high 5s with no issues... . untill we tried the 80,000lb loaded dyno for big trucks She'll eat your pistons! Turbo and manifold where cherry! She blinked 672hp on just #2 when the turbo farted and come to pieces The joys of destruction. Oo.

 

[I-6DZL]

video?????



lovely



Curtis

 

[RacinDuallie]

video?????

lovely

Curtis

I thought it would be cool too!! but- as usual he backed down to a challange

 

[RacinDuallie]

So- the main thing is to fully balance the entire rotating assembly- Is there a company that manifactures higher strength rod bolts?
What about the main cap bolts? Has anyone come out with a stud kit for the 24 valve engines yet? 12 valve kits I have seen. I have also seen the stud kit for use with the girdle too- but alas- only w- the 12 valve, I can't see this girdle I bought being fully effective without incorporating the main caps into the installation? It just gets sandwiched between the pan and pan rail of the block... .

 

[Todd T]

you need to talk to Van Haisley of Haisley Machine. he can point you in the right direction.



the pullers have developed most of these parts out of necessity, so you can image what has been tried and trued over the years. Both Van and his sone run 24V auto trucks so if it will break they've broken it.



common sense tells you to polish and shot peen the rods, balance first each hole, matching weights all up and then the rotating mass as a whole. you could go further to knife cut and polish the crank and rebalance it alone and then the rotating mass.



RPMS are a thin line between lite weight and strength. I dont know of anyone that has stretched a rod and i believe there are better rod bolts out there and you have the girdle. BTW who's is it? maybe there is a better design that ties the caps into it!?! have you checked on that?

 

[Cumminsman]

van nor curt run 24v auto's... ... not sure where you got your info. BUT van runs a 12v w/reverser and curt runs a 12v w/a nv4500.

 

[COMP461]

The 24 valve and the later 12 valve use the same 12 mm mains studs, I would use ARP. The early 12 valves use a 14 mm stud. Nice but not necessary. The Cummins rod bolts are very good quality, and more the enough for what most people do. Spend the money on main studs, and head studs, the 12 mm are just fine, the bigger studs are not necessary in a drag motor if tuned right. Just like fire rings, if a . 041 SS o-ring with a receiver grove will not hold, you are doing something wrong, and something else will fail.



Balancing is a good ideal, but most people will be surprised how close factories Cummins are. The cranks are a different story, and some are in, and some are out. The pistons are all over the map. All in all the 12 and 24 valve share most parts

 

[RacinDuallie]

you need to talk to Van Haisley of Haisley Machine. he can point you in the right direction.

the pullers have developed most of these parts out of necessity, so you can image what has been tried and trued over the years. Both Van and his sone run 24V auto trucks so if it will break they've broken it.

common sense tells you to polish and shot peen the rods, balance first each hole, matching weights all up and then the rotating mass as a whole. you could go further to knife cut and polish the crank and rebalance it alone and then the rotating mass.

RPMS are a thin line between lite weight and strength. I dont know of anyone that has stretched a rod and i believe there are better rod bolts out there and you have the girdle. BTW who's is it? maybe there is a better design that ties the caps into it!?! have you checked on that?

I bought the Girdle from PDR- but it came in a Cummins box. There are no holes provided to incorporate the main caps with the girdle? When using the studs I know the studs are longer for girdle useage.....

Do you know of a better design available for the 24 valve engines?

 

[Morse]

How much actual boost is OK for a truck with 12mm studs?

 

[Todd T]

more than likely that girdle is the same one the pullers (Haisley) uses. PDR uses alot of the puller stuff and resells it. I wouldnt hesitate to call one of the big three and ask. after all... you're a unsactioned "little" drag racer, you are no threat to them we're like Girlymons to them. or is that just Greg?



Morse are you talking about the head studs? It's kinda whishy-washy on them. I have ARP's 12MM studs and its sees 70PSI regularly, But i have a fire ringed head and Cummins gasket. an o-ringed head with a felpro gasket probably wouldnt last as long. an o-ringed head and a Cummins gasket would/should be somewhere in the middle. then you have the prepwork, head surface (is it flat?) and block surfaces (how clean did you get it, how well did you chase/clean the threads?) to factor in. Oh and some guys o-ring the block and not the head.



See what i mean?

 

[JasonCzerak]

Yeah gee thanks, My mustang did that once when the floor mat got stuck... ...

I was 17years old crusing mom's 91' GT rag top auto-slush-box. Being a typical punk in a typical POS. I mat the accelerator, no pun, just like you. STUCK! Under the mat! I jump on the breaks and it's still over powering the breaks. Throw the car in to neutral just before ALMOST rear ending some car in slow-mo. Motor spins WAY up, I kill the ignition the second after I drop it into neutral.



I haven't a clue of what the final destination of the RPM needle would of been had it not been "stuck" as far right as possible.



So I fire it back up once I adjust the mat, everythings cool, except the needle is stuck. What to Tell dad and mom? Well, 2 miles later after red-lining the motor a few times it popped lose. (prolly michigan roads more so then me).



That was funked up.

 

[RacinDuallie]

more than likely that girdle is the same one the pullers (Haisley) uses. PDR uses alot of the puller stuff and resells it. I wouldnt hesitate to call one of the big three and ask. after all... you're a unsactioned "little" drag racer, you are no threat to them

I wonder if I can modify this one to work with Studs.....

 

[Todd T]

only one way to find out! HEE HEE...



so are you building an engine outside the truck or planning to take yours down and do the dirty deed this winter?

 

[RacinDuallie]

Already been had the ol 24 valver out and on the stand for a while now- too long now. :{ ... ... . still workin on it, gathering up all the new parts, while working on other projects as well... ..... AND WORK- AND Side work I'm now doing on weekends:{ :{ for extra cash with my brother, not to mention finding out my brother's- in law has all kinds of machining equipment in his basement and garage that we are welcome to come and play with anytime... . So I'll have more work to deal with- But I hopefully will soon have a big announcement for the members in the coming weeks... ... ... Oo.

 

[J.R. Adkins]

100+ lbs. boost on 12mm studs and single o-ring for 1 yr plus. Seems to fine by me!





J. R.