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Bigger Tires Force a Lift - Best Deal KORE?

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My steering is really loose ~1 hr of movement. What gives?

Popping sound when steering

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I know leveling kits have been beaten to death on the forum, and I have read a lot of the threads. Now it's time for my specific circumstance, and I would like to have an opinion from others. After five years in the Nevada sun, my stock Michelins are nearing the end (55k w/ an easy 10k left if it weren’t for side-wall cracking) and will be replaced by tires that are about 34” on the stock rims. I want to bring up the front end. My thought process went something like this: get the $60 steel coil spring spacers on eBay, but shoot, I can get some springs for not too much more … well, you know, the shocks are getting old too … it’s a lot of labor to put any of those items in, I only want to do it once … maybe I should hold out for a better-engineered solution, but I’m on a serious budget … I can’t see doing front shocks w/o rear shocks … I know I’ll be much happier with the on and off-road ride improvements of a “real” system … but decent systems are out of my budget … wow, KORE is selling a leveling kit for $385 … if I factor my labor at even $20 an hour, the KORE would actually pay me in the long run, because I would not install crappy spacers, remove them later, and then install an engineered system. I’m not sure that my brain’s processing makes sense to anybody reading this, but hopefully it’s understood better than by my wife when I proclaimed that a $385 purchase is almost free! Well, it went on from there. Now I’m pretty sure I’ll do the rear too, or at the very least, add Bilstein 5100s to match the front. If you add the shocks, I’m into about $545, but for $670 I can get the entire KORE HD suspension (VR front coils, billet track bar drop blocks, 4 Bilstein 5100s, and mini leaf packs). So the addition of the spring packs is around $125. I don’t see an individual price for the mini packs on the KORE web site, but Lorenz asks $400 for a similar product when purchased separately. If price were no object, I would be going down a different path. Based on feedback from forums, I would probably pick a higher-end Lorenz or Carli system if I had the coin to drop. Lorenz’s similar system (5100) would set me back $415 more. Lorenz’s quality and support might be better, but I’m already jumping from $60 to $670; another 60+ percent is not in the cards. So here’s my question: how can I go wrong with this set-up at this price?



One more question: If I were to do the front now and save my $$ to buy full replacement rear leafs, such as Lorenz’s Dual Purpose leafs or KORE’s Prerunner Series leafs, would I be compromising load capacity? I use my 3500 at GVWR often, and will only consider mods that maintain or enhance stock load capacity. I want to be confident about both real function and the legal aspects. KORE seems sort of vague on whether their full leafs retain stock load capacity, and Lorenz is confusing by saying “3/4 ton capacity” is maintained (I consider a 3500 a one-ton) but also says “intended for use up to the GVWR set forth by Chrysler. ” I recall Carli making a clear statement that their full leafs do indeed relinquish stock capacity in order to attain the best off-road performance possible. I’m thinking that my capacity expectations may not be met by full replacement springs, but I am enticed by the prospect of ride improvement that is not likely from just mini-packs. Is anybody with full leafs hitting the scale close to 9900 lbs. in a 3500 SWR? Thanks.
 
I have the old Kore Recon system with HD coil* which is the same as the New HP series system. I am pretty happy with the system even after three years. The ride is an improvement over stock, for the price you can't beat it. I have never loaded my truck to 10000 lbs with the mini leaf packs in the rear, but with air bags like you have, I wouldn't worry about losing load capacity.

*HD coil was designed for snow plow or after market bumpers
 
Call the Carli shop they can walk you through all the different scenarios you have asked about. Phone: 714. 532-2798





Bob
 
The way I understand it is that everyones full rear springs can carry the full weight of the GVWR. They will just sag more than the mini packs. The Lorenz DP leafs may be different. With the air bags you are good to go. My thought is to go Carli pin top 2. 5 with full leafs and bumpstops. Then upgrade later on to the 3. 0 and shock towers. I have to be patient because this will not happen any time soon, but I want it.
 
Got the Kore. I would advise against. Customer service is crap. If I had the money, I'd swap to Carli or Lorenz for that alone. Nevermind the "greatly improved ride" that is just as kidney jarring as it was beforehand. And trust me, just get 35's. You won't be happy with 33's or 33. 75's.
 
Got the Kore. I would advise against. Customer service is crap. If I had the money, I'd swap to Carli or Lorenz for that alone. Nevermind the "greatly improved ride" that is just as kidney jarring as it was beforehand. And trust me, just get 35's. You won't be happy with 33's or 33. 75's.



I wouldn't go w/ the Kore either. Not impressed whatsoever. The ride sucks and I'll be taking my VR coils off soon to put my spacers back on. I'll be selling the coils soon too, if anyone is interested.
 
Got the Kore. I would advise against. Customer service is crap. If I had the money, I'd swap to Carli or Lorenz for that alone. Nevermind the "greatly improved ride" that is just as kidney jarring as it was beforehand. And trust me, just get 35's. You won't be happy with 33's or 33. 75's.





Thanks for the feedback everyone. The different takes on ride quality are confusing ... betwen this thread and others I hear "way smoother than stock" to "kidney jarring" Did KORE have a different coil than the current VR that would have been harsher? Still looking at the $670 for a whole system. Only thing that comes close is Skyjacker, and my gut says KORE is in a better quality realm.
 
I installed the Kore PACE system on my truck and the Kore RECON on a friends. I got great help and assistance at every turn. I even got my Toyos from them. Ride improvement was so noticable even the Wife commented on it. Another friend had a Kore CHASE installed on his, after accusing me of trying to hit every pothole during a trip to get some fresh beer :)
 
My $670. 00 HP series Kore suspension hits my door step tonight. I am really excited for it. I just had the front end of my truck redone, new ball joints (greeseable) death wobble fix kit. I know how some of this works. There are great companys out there with truly extrodany products. But "perfection is the enemy of good enough" and I don't have a perfection pocket book. I am thinking that just the addition of the bilstein shocks will be a great improvment. The ride should not be any worse than stock (that has not been bad for 98K miles), and my stock stuff does not have life time warranty. I hope that I have made a good investment, because I am never getting rid of this truck! Just my two cents, maybe you can get a penny out of it. :)
 
If you want to go cheap, take a look at my sig. Blocks for the swaybar are pretty well universally frowned upon. I went for the Max-link ends for under $100. The front coils have many options. Skyjacker D25 springs are around $150 if you shop. They have been fine for me but some don't like them. An then there are custom spring turners like this one,



Coil Spring Specialties -- individually calibrated coil springs for any suspension need.



that have good reviews out there.



You can get 4 5100 Bilstiens shipped to your door for less than $300 if you shop on Ebay. The cheapest fix for you was given to me by a spring maker after I already had my mini packs, is to flip the overload leaf over and use your airbags to make up the difference when loaded. It won't cost you anything but labor. That's less than $600 with links instead of blocks. Been on enough forums and since 2003 that would keep me away from Kore. FWIW
 
I wouldn't go w/ the Kore either. Not impressed whatsoever. The ride sucks and I'll be taking my VR coils off soon to put my spacers back on. I'll be selling the coils soon too, if anyone is interested.



i might be interested. how much are u looking to get for them?
 
My $670. 00 HP series Kore suspension hits my door step tonight. I am really excited for it. I just had the front end of my truck redone, new ball joints (greeseable) death wobble fix kit. I know how some of this works. There are great companys out there with truly extrodany products. But "perfection is the enemy of good enough" and I don't have a perfection pocket book. I am thinking that just the addition of the bilstein shocks will be a great improvment. The ride should not be any worse than stock (that has not been bad for 98K miles), and my stock stuff does not have life time warranty. I hope that I have made a good investment, because I am never getting rid of this truck! Just my two cents, maybe you can get a penny out of it. :)

We are thinking alike in regard to perfection vs. good enough. Could you PM me after the install, and share any tips about the task, as well as a before/after ride comparison? Please take measurements too! Thanks.
 
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If you want to go cheap, take a look at my sig. Blocks for the swaybar are pretty well universally frowned upon. I went for the Max-link ends for under $100. The front coils have many options. Skyjacker D25 springs are around $150 if you shop. They have been fine for me but some don't like them. An then there are custom spring turners like this one,



Coil Spring Specialties -- individually calibrated coil springs for any suspension need.



that have good reviews out there.



You can get 4 5100 Bilstiens shipped to your door for less than $300 if you shop on Ebay. The cheapest fix for you was given to me by a spring maker after I already had my mini packs, is to flip the overload leaf over and use your airbags to make up the difference when loaded. It won't cost you anything but labor. That's less than $600 with links instead of blocks. Been on enough forums and since 2003 that would keep me away from Kore. FWIW
I have certainly considered the D25 route, cherry-picking some other parts from various sources as you have. I like the idea of being able to address the immediate need (tire clearance in front) and then taking the time to save for and do the rear in the best way I determine. Could you comment on the coils' ride vs. stock, and the actual installed lift amount? I want 2" min. , would be fine with a bit more. I know Skyjacker says 2", but I think I saw somewhere that 1. 5" is the reality. Do you know how much the overloads lift with the flip? I'd be a bit concerned about unladen stiffness with the flip, but the price sounds good!
 
I have certainly considered the D25 route, cherry-picking some other parts from various sources as you have. I like the idea of being able to address the immediate need (tire clearance in front) and then taking the time to save for and do the rear in the best way I determine. Could you comment on the coils' ride vs. stock, and the actual installed lift amount? I want 2" min. , would be fine with a bit more. I know Skyjacker says 2", but I think I saw somewhere that 1. 5" is the reality. Do you know how much the overloads lift with the flip? I'd be a bit concerned about unladen stiffness with the flip, but the price sounds good!



I have to find my measurements to see where the truck is setting at now. It was over 2 inches at first but has settled. The D25's appear to be variable rate and have given me a ride that is softer than stock. The Bilstiens give it a tuned firm feel. The overload flip may actually lower the rear slightly and will leave a gap at the end of the overload so you should get a softer ride with more travel than the mini packs. Is the 3500 overload under the leaf pack like the 2500?
 
I have to find my measurements to see where the truck is setting at now. It was over 2 inches at first but has settled. The D25's appear to be variable rate and have given me a ride that is softer than stock. The Bilstiens give it a tuned firm feel. The overload flip may actually lower the rear slightly and will leave a gap at the end of the overload so you should get a softer ride with more travel than the mini packs. Is the 3500 overload under the leaf pack like the 2500?
I have to look at a 2500, but the 3500 overloads are above. The leaf assemblies have four primary, arched leafs, decreasing in length as they stack downward from the longest, eye-end leaf. There is a un-arched, but tapered (thickest in the center) leaf that is on the very bottom; it would tend to fully mate with the arched pack as those leafs flatten under heavy load. What I would consider the overloads are an equal length pack of two springs arched opposite to the main pack. They attach to and above the main pack at the ubolts, and their ends touch nothing until more than 3 inches of compression occurs. Then, they contact bumpstops that hang down from above. Fliping them would result in their ends applying pressure on the main leaf pack from above, presummably increasing the degree of unladen arch and therefore the ride height. My gut tells me this would increase unladen stiffness in a nasty way. With limited engineering intuition, I can only say that the overall load capacity would probably be different, but difficult for me to calculate. The bumpstops would no longer be in play, and two sets of springs would be working against each other. I'd be very interested to hear the results from someone who has given it a try.
 
What I would consider the overloads are an equal length pack of two springs arched opposite to the main pack. They attach to and above the main pack at the ubolts, and their ends touch nothing until more than 3 inches of compression occurs. Then, they contact bumpstops that hang down from above.

Ooops. I was tired and had "spring dyslexia" when I tried to describe the rear leaf set-up. The overloads are not situated in an opposite arch to the main packs ... but they have a greater arch that causes them to diverge away from the mutual center of all the leafs, with the ends suspended in free air until compressed to the bump stops by load weight.
 
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Nevermind the "greatly improved ride" that is just as kidney jarring as it was beforehand.



I put a Kore Recon on about 8-10 months ago and have been very happy. I keep reading these posts of rough rides. Mine is no worse and probably better than stock. "kidney jarring" stock? uhhh, we didn't buy Cadillac's here, we bought 3/4 or 1-ton trucks.
 
Would your air bags take up the slack if you unhooked your overloads?
I think the bags could level a big load w/o the overloads in place, but then GVWR issues exist, for sure. As "they" say, air bags are for stability enhancement and leveling, but not intended to increase actual weight capacity over stock specs. Well, the reality is that this truck is now way safer and more comfortable than stock when loaded near or even over capacity. Removing the overloads and not replacing them with some other type of spring would defeat my goal of maintaining rated load, but seeking a better ride and keeping pace with a front end lift of two to three inches. But if I don't hear from anybody who has tried the flip, I might invest may labor in seeing what it does.
 
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