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Bilstein shock help

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UPDATE

Received the hardware Bilstein was sending me... ... . it appears to be the same hardware that came with the shocks, EXCEPT the shocks had no new rubber grommets, nor these steel sleeves as pictured above. I am on a TIGHT time schedule this week, and didn't have time to fight this thing, so had a local repair shop deal with it for me... ..... in under 30 mins (aren't lifts and air tools nice) it was done.



Tech took one look and agreed, it is felony stupid these shocks didn't come with grommets or sleeves in the first place... ... ... and even stupider that no matter how simple something appears, there are no instructions in the shock boxes, in the bag with the new hardware, nor on any internet site affiliated with Bilstein.



Anyway, if you have a 4X4, and have these shocks on the front, YOU NEED ALL THE HARDWARE. If you don't you'll just destroy the factory rubber grommets as I did. The pics posted above by Cooker are what don't come with the new shocks (at least mine didn't), but are in fact what you need!!! If you are getting by without, the stresses created by the truck on the upper portion of the factory grommet will destroy it if you (like me) torqued the retaining nut/washer down over it against the shock tower... ... ... . which is why you should have the grommet AND the steel sleeves Bilstein has provided some of us after the fact.



Hope this helps. Call Bilstein at the numbers on their website..... they are very cool, and will do the right thing for you. If anyone has questions fire away.



Rogue
 
Tighten it all the way

Kyoung, you have to tighten it all the way. It states: with spacer sleeves, tighten the buffers to the point where the plate (on top) makes contact with the sleeve, or tighten until the nut is at the end of the threads. Pit Bull; the service manual is no good with the bilstein shocks nor or the bushings that are with the OEM shocks. Cooker has a good picture of everything except the large washer that goes on the bottom of the cone bushing and the plate that goes on top of the cone bushing, then the lock nut. One of my lock nuts had the wrong threads, had to scrounge up another one. My (both) rubber bushings came with the sleeve inserted. You have the shock tower off (OK) what I did was take the metal sleeve out of the rubber bushing, silicone rubber bushing, push thru shock tower,( rubber bushing is pushed thru shock tower, small end up, to coller around bushing) re-install metal sleeve, re-install shock tower, tighten lock nut until it makes contact with metal sleeve. The rubber bushing looks pretty squeezed (sp) but that is the way it is supposed to look. The shock was already tighten at the bottom before performing the above steps. Forgive me for the long post. Later. (p. s. I keep saying rubber bushing, I guess it should be called rubber buffer - per bilstein, use service manual for torque on bolt on bottom and 3 nuts for shock tower).
 
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Who to talk to at Bilstein?

Boy, I'm sure glad you guys have done all this work to fix the problem and describe it to the rest of us! I thought it was just me-I now know that I ddn't get the metal sleeves with my new Bilsteins a few months ago.

Since I bought them from Offroad Warehouse I wondered if they could help me with the problem or Bilstein directly. Anyone in particular that I need to speak to, or are the folks at Bilstein well aware of the problem and prepared to send out kits for TDR members? Thanks in advance for the advice



Guy
 
Guy,

I'd just go to Bilsteins website, and choose either the East or West Coast contact numbers, give em a call and ask to speak to a tech. Tell them your front shocks did not come with the proper hard ware, and describe what you need to them. I didn't get into the TDR thing with them. So far unless I am missing it, I haven't seen a thread nor have heard of anyone that has had the hardware included with the shock package they originally bought.



It appears to be a problem that everyone has who buys the front shocks for our trucks..... some guys just don't realize it yet, and I think Bilstein is most likely getting deluged with calls over it as peoples OEM bushings deteriorate and the "clunking" starts.



They should send you the bushings, washers, and nuts free of charge.



Later



Rogue



PS: just drove 1800 miles with the new bushings and hardware in there and it worked wonderfully. Bilstein shocks on an unloaded shortbed 4x4 are a little on the stiff side, tho...
 
Thanks Rogue!

While waiting I got a little impatient;) and called the Bilstein West number - Ryan and Dan over there are sending me out a kit no charge!



I am working on the rig to get ready for our first camping season and happened to run across this thread. There is no doubt that my TDR membership has more than paid for itself!:cool:



Guy
 
I think this might be a Off road WH problem. Got mine at autozone and they look like new after 6 months (I never looked at the shocks just had a local shop install). I would think that if this part where left out I would know it by now?
 
Not necessarily..........

Pit, pop the hood, get a flashlight, look at the psgr side shock under the air box... ... look to see if you can spot the rubber grommet squeezing out to about the circumference of the retaining washer that sits on top of it. If not, stick your finger in there and see if there is much space between the washer and the shock tower, and feel if the grommet has worn or torn edges... ..... try tightening the nut to see if it tightens or just keeps going. If you have a nice round grommet and the nut bottoms out without going to the tower (squashing the grommet) then you are probably alright. If it goes to the tower and squashes the grommet, or if you feel in there and don't find much of one, you need the hardware like the rest of us.



Make sense? The grommet posted earlier in this thread is what you are after... ... ...



Rogue
 
Thanks Rogue, I checked mine out and they look like new, I must of gotten the insert because I work these shocks everyday and if they were missing anything I am sure I would feel it and see some wear. (I hope) I will continue to keep an eye on this and save this thread incase I do have a problem.
 
Rogue, FYI I just put on a set of Bilstein this weekend. Mine did come with the metal sleeve to slide inside the rubber and two metal washers end caps to lock down the rubber boot. It all looked good to me. OverFueled
 
Who has the best price out there for the Bilsteins. I have been thinking about getting a new set of shocks,since the factories have 10,000 on them. Thanks, Gregg.
 
Have you guys had any luck with Bilstein taking care of the problem? I talked to them yesterday and the guy was trying to tell me there was no way I got the shocks without the metal sleeve already inside the hour glass rubber boot. He said they come already inserted in there and it would take the right tools and time to get them out. I replied that other members here are having the same problems as I and all we want are the right parts and a diagram showing the order in which the parts go on. I told him there were no directions in the box and no metal sleeve, thus thats why the rubber boots are toast. He seemed kind of miffed that I was telling him this, but said he was pulling up the directions and was going to fax them to me. I never got the fax. He also had to transfer me to the sales dept. to order new boots and sleeves. Not sure why I can order them seperatly if he insists they come together in the first place. Had to leave a voice mail at sales and never got a return call yesterday either. He did say the rubber boots were on back order from Germany, but should have been in soon. I'll be calling back today wihout a smile on my face.
 
Tim, let me know how you make out. When I installed mine a few months ago, they didn't have the metal sleeve either. Thought it was kinda strange. Got them at Autozone here in town. Welll, the front end has been clunking for a few weeks. Guess I'll check the bushings this weekend. I still have all the parts from the Ranchos so maybe I can scavenge a solution.
 
Modified set still working

From what I have learned in this thread it looks like the OEM bushings and the Bilstein bushings are very similar. I believe there are no upper bushings. The lowers get a metal sleeve and when compressed stick through the top a little. Pretty sure that is how its supposed to be. I did not know this so I "made" upper shings out of a set of lowers. They are still working great and I believe will last the life of the shock. I have a set of Poly bushings I may experiment with (wondering about ride quality). Anyway, if you can get your hands on the metal sleeves (new OEMs did not come with them, probably order seperate) You can run up to the dealer and get the OEM bushings and be back on the trail. Could also go to the autostore and buy a set of generic "Help pack" bushings as mentioned earlier in this thread, probably skip the metal sleeve if you go this route.
 
I got mine at autozone. Had them installed and they are tight and no problem. That was 10K miles ago. I figure that if their was a problem it would of surfaced by now. I would think that if you have them installed by someone that does this for a living on a regular basis they would notice if parts were missing.
 
Hey all,



I've been reading several posts on the Bilstein shock installation, and I'm a little confused about the order of parts for re-installation. I have the correct part number for my truck (BE5-2549), and the package included a large washer, a smaller washer, the "hourglass" boot, a lock nut and a steel sleeve.



My question is this: What is the order of installation with regard to these parts, and which way does that boot get installed-smaller part up or down?



Thanks in advance!
 
Tracktorface,



Thats odd typing that... anyway... . I had some OEM bilstien replacements that did the same thing. The top bushings were worn clean through on the drivers side and 80% on the passengers side. It allow the metal shock tower to contact the metal shock washer, resulting in a clunk sound, and rough ride. Very anouying, and un-pleasent ride. Many in this site have suggested to realy tighten down the upper and lower shock mounts, but I feel that is the wrong approach. They should not require anything beyond normal snug tight. The problem with the top mount could be a combination of over thightening, and a very stiff shock putting alot of load on the bushings. I would try and find some poly bushings to correct the problem, only they are durable, but stiff, which might transfer some road noise.



www.prothanesuspension.com

or

www.energysuspension.com
 
I ran outside to look at the truck... ... . large black washer, metal sleeve, bootie over sleeve and smaller part of boot below tower, larger part above tower; chrome/polished metal washer on top of rubber, then locknut. It should be tightened down until the the little metal sleeve contacts the chrome/polished metal washer. As to "how tight" after that is up to you, I don't recall how tight I put it.



Where the problems came from were guys like me that were never given the metal sleeves nor new boots... ... ... . the nuts were tightened down and it was the OEM boots getting squished, and under normal driving conditions they came apart. Sounds like you have all the correct parts. Put on as above, its OK to get realllly mad at the drivers side front, but you'll do it... ... ... . and you'll like them!



RR
 
its OK to get realllly mad at the drivers side front, but you'll do it... ... ... . and you'll like them!



RR [/B]



I know the driver's front will be a bee-otch, but I also know the end result will be well worth it. Thanks a bundle for all of your help.



Mark
 
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