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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bilstein shock installation question

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Hey, Gang,



I'm preparing to install 4 new Bilstein shocks on my '96 4X4, 2500 diesel; however, I see each is banded to apparently compress (hold?) the piston in place.



What is procedure for installing--particularly with regard to fitting the top and bottom of schock to mounting positions and cutting the band?



I have a vision of cutting the band prematurely and having a "wildcat" on my hands.



Help!



Thanks.



Dr JC

Michigan

-- email address removed --
 
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Don't know about the 96' but on my 01 I just pulled the three nuts holding the top of the shock tower off after pulling the bolt out of the bottom of the shock and the nut off the top. It helps if you have the truck jacked up but not so far that the shock bottoms out. Then just drop the shock in from the top put on the top of the shock tower then put in the bottom bolt and cut the strap, it will need to be guided into the hole on top. Make sure you have the hardware (metal washer rubber washer) on before you cut the strap. If you forget you can always take off the top of the shock tower.



For the back shocks I put the top bolt on, then cut the strap and guided the bottom into the metal shock support. Then I needed to use a prybar (small one) under the bottom of the shock to pull it back a little bit to align the bolt. Back shocks should take about 45 minutes or less, depending on rust level. front might take a little longer.



The new shocks will be a lot harder to compress than the old ones.



good luck
 
CFAR,



Thanks for your good info and prompt response--the job should go well with your welcome input.



Dr. JCl
 
Ditto what CFAR said, especially jacking the truck from the frame in the front to extend the shock/spring.



I remove the air box on the passenger side. The driver side is the tricky one, but you can finagle the shock in/out around all the stuff near the shock tower.
 
They can be hard to compress especially the front ones, once you have them sitting in the middle of the coil.



The Top Nut on the front shock was an 18mm if I remember correctly, and the top of the shock shaft was a 9mm. I had to put an cheater on my 1/4" drive ratchet to hold it.



Dane has a good point, if the shock is not compressed it might not be possible to put the shock in from the top on the drivers side. Or very difficult.
 
Bilstein installs

:D Dr. JC: When I installed mine, it was no big deal. Just jack the truck (extending the springs) which extends the shocks. Removing the front wheels greatly improves access to the top retainer nut. You're gonna love the Bilsteins
 
Bilstein Shocks

Watch on the driver side, I noticed the stock shock stud had begun to rub into a wire harness. I fixed it with some electrical tape and some additional wire loom then made sure they stayed away from the shock with some zip-ties. The shocks will not explode if you cut the banding. They'll probably be in your way if you don't remove them.
 
If it expands ...

I have compressed my Bilstien shocks with "550" cord to better manage the length. I was able to cut the cord by reaching through the coil spring. If I can scan a drawing I'll edit this post.



Glenn
 
Bilstein shock installation

Hey, Gang,



The installation is done! Went well, took 6 hours from startd to finish for the 4 shocks, including clean-up.



My thanks go to CFAR, Dane, radar doctor, Josparkz, aviatorman, D Blackham, and GFoley for your valued and thoughtful input!



Appreciation, also, to our web folk for working to provide this valuable forum.



Dr JC
 
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