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black stacks

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12V Guru needed in MI

92 LE Passenger Seat Hinge

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I'm consisdering putting together a y-pipe kit of my own and getting some 6 inch exhaust pipe and painting them with high heat paint black:cool: any suggestions or comments thanks



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93' CTD 4in straight pipe k&n directly on turbo (lot of whistle):-laf the youngin
 
youre talking to the right man my friend. i like the way you think :D



your best bet is poweder coating them. high heat paint is ok, but when it comes to the heat of the pipes, and the abuse theyll most likly see. (branches hitting them, sand blasting from dust and dirt on the road, sun fading them. ) ive found a good poweder coating to hold up real good. i painted my downpipe and all the exhaust pipes except the stacks with the high heat paint. i put 3+ coats on. the only place i was not pleased with was the downpipe. its started burning off.



if you use box tubing istead of acutal pipe to do the y, expect to loose some turbo wistle, and little flow. if you have any questions or want pictures, feel more than free to PM me. i got a thread on here of the WHOLE project progression as i did it, from day one to completion. its actually pretty cool. if you cant find it, ill try to look it up for you. i think the title was https://www.turbodieselregister.com...93/198063-4inch-downpipe-stacks-progress.html



good luck.
 
Powder Coating... as I've been told by professional painting companies... is simply, and basically dried paint particles that are electrostatically applied then heated to provide an even coat... without all the solvents. People like using it because its faster than painting and more air friendly. Also the thickness is controlled faster and easier.



Other than that... they said painting is the same thing. Assuming your comparing the same product and not different types of paint/powerdercoating.



I don't know... I'm just quoting them.



So I guess my point is... wouldn't paint be as "tough" if you put on an equal thickness of the same base product?



I've had powerdercoating "fall off" too much for me to like it. Thats just me.
 
Yes you are correct about the comparisons of the painting processes. where I worked previously we had a powdercoat line. Also worked with outside powder coat houses.

Powder coat is fast and gets very evenly coated and doesn't run... takes no "skill" per se. Put em on a rack and run em thru the line so to speak. They can pretty much dial in the thickness too.

But you can do ok with a jiggle can too.
 
I thought i was the only crazy one that likes black stacks! normally i am not a fan of stacks but if i was going to do them thats the only way. :cool:
 
the poweder coating that i had done was done wrong twice. it flaked off. if done right, a piece of metal thats been poweder coated is esentially just a tuff as if it were the same steel. my stacks were done in a garage in a guys backyard in West Virginia. his rig was well, you get the picture. ive seen professional powdercoated bumpers and stuff, their amazingly strong and dang near indistructable.
 
Preparation for powdercoating, part of the process, is just as important as prep for any painting. There is also a post process.

There are several "baths" that the parts go thru. . cleaning, usually a phosphate "etching", sometimes primers. All those must be of the proper cleanliness, etc.

Then there is the "spray" booth where the parts are hung (and grounded), or set on a grounding plate if it's a "manual" operation, and the powder is applied via varying methods.

Then there is a heat curing.

So... there are lots of variables just like any process. I would never say that it is as tough as the steel itself. It is a coating that can be chipped off as a matter of fact there are standard tests for that (I had to getand record these results many times).

Tougher and more durable than normal paint for sure in most cases because it is done in a controlled environment.
 
We just started offering a paint option on the bar refrigerators and beer dispensing heads at my company, and we tried a bunch of different options. We went with the baked on ceramic paint... just like the finish on a car... actually we're having it outsourced right now to a professional auto detailing shop. We also tried powder coat, and a few other types. All of the test models got scratched going through the shop for final assembly except for the powder coating. The powder coated parts you could throw across the parking lot and they'd still look great.
 
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The powder coated parts you could throw across the parking lot and they'd still look great.



Awsum testing procedure for a bar fridge... if it survives that it can survive the brawls???:-laf:-laf:-laf
 
yeah, my coater has little sample pieces he's done... you can take a piece of coated sheet metal and bend it pretty extreme, and it'll barely show any cracking. hit it w/ a hammer, etc. etc.
 
Powdercoating is great,
but if I were to buy some black stacks, I'd track down the OEM stacks used on CAT heavy equip that I've seen range from 3"- to 7" with the angled tip. Probably cheaper to buy from CAT already in matte black than to have to deal with finding a good powder coater, and paying and waiting and all that.

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Thanks for all the suggestions i painted a black pipe and used as my tip for the last two days , the paint holds up ok but i like the powdercoatingidea, i've looked into it , expensive but worth it, i like the cat stack idea maybe i'll look into it to compare, the truck would look pretty crzy with some sevens, my buddy with a lowrider wouldn'y know what to think:-laf:-laf



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93' CTD 4 inch straight pipe 5 inch tip in front of tire, k&n, tweaked pump, turned 1/8, fuel pin (not yet installed)- the youngin:-laf
 
If you don't mind spending some $ Silverline exhaust has Black stainless stack kits, they have a webpage and they are in Summit Racing's catalog under diesel performance
 
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