Bleeder Screw

[EErmert]

Hey, nice pic... what about the Anti-Skid brake stuff?

 

[Adam]

ABS System

I thought there was somewhere in the owner's manual that said brake bleeding could only be completed by a shop with the right equipment. Something about the ABS computer and the proper procedure using a machine? It was in my '02 manual, but I haven't looked in my new manual to see if it still applies to the new trucks. Something to think about...

 

[nickleinonen]

I thought there was somewhere in the owner's manual that said brake bleeding could only be completed by a shop with the right equipment. Something about the ABS computer and the proper procedure using a machine? It was in my '02 manual, but I haven't looked in my new manual to see if it still applies to the new trucks. Something to think about...

like how the manual says that the dealership is basically the only place you can service your vehicle to maintain warrenty???

 

[rbattelle]

Okay, this project is beginning to annoy me. First there was the problem that no one in the country was stocking the bleeders. Not Dodge and not any aftermarket company. Release from Dodge was supposed to be 18 Sep, but by some miracle they released them today. I have 8 on order (spares).



Then I get home from work to find a message from Rock Auto (where I ordered the calipers). A1 Cardone, the remanufacturer, does not stock any of those parts. You must remove your caliper, mail it to them, they rebuild it (they claim they're 80% sure they can rebuild it), then they mail it back to you. Process takes more than 2 weeks. Right... and how do I get to work in the meantime?



So I had to go order a new OEM unit from Dodgeparts.com. Well, it's $105 (no core, thank God), but there's a 15% restocking fee on returned parts. So I only ordered the right side and I'll cross my fingers that I'm successful at removing the broken bleeder. It'll cost me $10. 50 to ship it, then if I don't use it it'll be another $10 to ship back plus a $15 restock fee so I'll be into it for $25 loss if I don't use the caliper. But that's all beside the point.



As you point out, Falkinham, I will be more careful with the other bleeders and maybe (that's a BIG maybe) they won't snap like a twig like this one did. For sure I'll spend lots of PB blaster on them and work at them very slowly. The thing is, that screw didn't even budge at all when I applied force to it... it simply snapped instantly.



Adam, there is no "special" procedure for brake bleeding/flushing according to my service manual. It's just the standard procedure I've used on every other car I've worked on.



Stupid rusty bleeders.



-Ryan

 

[Extreme1]

One thing I alway do when bleeding if it's been a few years (my '94 is the newest vehicle I drive except for the wife's 2000 Dakota): as stated above tap the side of the caliper with a hammer.



No, make that smack the caliper hard with a large ball peen hammer. A friend showed me that a few years ago, works every time. You need to hit it hard enough to slightly disturb the metal around the bleeder, it cracks the rust loose. If it's broken flush or below, drive a allen wrench into it and away you go.



One thing I do to keep from having them break off is to put a cap on the screw so they don't rust on the inside. Some auto parts stores have them but I haven't bought any for many years.

 

[bighammer]

I guess if it were me, I'd leave it alone until I needed brake work. It will work fine with factory fluid for a long time-- Broken bleeder and all.

 

[rbattelle]

I guess if it were me, I'd leave it alone until I needed brake work. It will work fine with factory fluid for a long time-- Broken bleeder and all.

This is true and I've considered it. But I'd like to try... as a learning experience.



-Ryan

 

[Dl5treez]

Ryan,



Not being able to stick my noggin close enough to see the carnage, but from where I sit in this comfy over-stuffed chair I'll bet you $1 and one of your favorite ice-cold beverages that a left-handed drill bit will sping that right out of the hole.



Just a voice of experience talking... . could be wrong but it's worth a try.



Dan-

 

[rbattelle]

Ryan,



Not being able to stick my noggin close enough to see the carnage, but from where I sit in this comfy over-stuffed chair I'll bet you $1 and one of your favorite ice-cold beverages that a left-handed drill bit will sping that right out of

Oh, I bet you're right. We'll find out. Now that I got my new fancy-pants 1/2" drill, this will likely be its first application!



BTW, I've been soaking all 4 bleeders with PB blaster every day since I posted this thread.



-Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

son of a #@$%!

Well today was the day. I was all set with my new caliper, new bleeders, extractor set, and fancy new Milwaukee 1/2" drill.



Step 1: Left-handed drill out to 3/8" followed by 3/8" spiral extractor. Didn't budge, and I didn't want to snap my extractor.



Step 2: Left-handed drill out to 7/16" followed by 7/16" spiral extractor. Didn't budge again.



Step 3: Left-handed drill out to 1/4" followed by 1/4" spiral extractor. Cracked the small portion of the screw that remained outside the bore in 3 separate places, and didn't budge the screw one bit. #@$%!



After taking the picture below (sorry about the quality), I chiseled off the portion of the screw that had been protruding from the hole (the part that cracked in 3 places). Looking inside the bore, then, it's not possible to see where the bleeder screw ends and the iron for the caliper begins.



My theory is that this bleeder is now electrochemically bonded to the caliper (due to dissimilar metals), and the only way to get it out is to heat it up until it glows, then put the extractor on it. I can't do that with the caliper mounted on the vehicle (too many sensitive rubber components). I feel the entire caliper will need to be disassembled before I can safely perform such an operation.



The bad news is that the other 3 calipers on the truck look exactly like this one did before I snapped the bleeder. I am now operating under the assumption that all 4 bleeders will be electrochemically bonded to the calipers.



So I was all set to pull this caliper and put the new one on (so I could rebuild this one on the bench) when it hit me: this job is going to cost me a fortune if I intend to do it right. The calipers are $105/each plus shipping, which works out to around $470. Wouldn't it be better to take my $470 and buy some higher-quality aftermarket calipers? Something maybe with 4 pistons? Anything to avoid rewarding Dodge for this.



So now I'm looking for some aftermarket brakes. So far I've checked Stainless Steel, EGR, and Baer... none of them make calipers for the 3rd gen trucks (apparently). At this time, I figure I'll get only calipers and keep the stock rotors (since replacing rotors means I'll have to replace the front hub/bearing assemblies since they're now welded to the rotors )



I'm pretty angry with Dodge right now.



Update: it would appear no one makes aftermarket calipers for these trucks. It's looking like my best bet is just to sit and wait until someone does, rather than trying to sink money into replacing them now. Brakes work fine anyways. So much for trying to do some good preventative braking system maintenance.



-Ryan

 

[HOBrian]

Ryan, can you drill it out and make the bleeder screw very thin and try to fold the sides in and crush the screw and pull it out? Maybe drill the walls thin and try to retap the hole? Maybe a BFH and beat the living life out of it. It may not work but you might feel better.

 

[rbattelle]

It may not work but you might feel better.

Oooo, I sure would feel better!



I've come to a decision. Brian's right, the only way to do this is to drill the bleeder out until there's almost nothing left, then pick out the pieces and retap the hole. Problem is, I can't do this on the vehicle; the caliper needs to be removed so I can put it on my drill press and drill a nice straight hole (the hole I bored with my drill on the vehicle is NOT straight!).



As it sits in my driveway right now, there are no brake fluid leaks or anything. So I'm going to forget the brake flush for now and spend the next year or 2 gradually accumulating 4 new calipers (since I'm convinced the other 3 are in the same condition). Then one day I'll work my way around the truck replacing them all (probably at the same time I'm doing a brake job anyways), rebuild the old ones on my bench, then sell them to someone for a discount.



I got a response to a request to EGR for aftermarket calipers [anyone know what "slooted" means?]:

SORRY THERE NO LARGER CALIPERS, PADS OR ROTORS FOR YOUR TRUCK, BUT WE DO OFFER OUR FAMOUS CARBON KEVLAR PADS AND GAS SLOOTED ROTORS FOR BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR FOR YOUR MODEL. CALL ME DIRECTLY FOR MORE DETIALS

Swell. Factory it is!



-Ryan

 

[Texasrattler]

It's a typo, should be sloted rotor although slooted sounds cool .



Pete

 

[rbattelle]

It's a typo, should be sloted rotor although slooted sounds cool .

I know, I was just being a smart-you-know-what.



-Ryan

 

[HOBrian]

Ryan- I just went outside to see if mine were going to be as bad as yours. I tried my smallest 3/8 drive and 7/16 socket and guess what snapped and I did not put a lot a pressure on it :{ When I did the first spark plug change on my 98 Dak with a 318 everyone told me that they used an 800lb gorilla to put the plugs in, I guess he also does bleeder screws

 

[rbattelle]

Ryan- I just went outside to see if mine were going to be as bad as yours. I tried my smallest 3/8 drive and 7/16 socket and guess what snapped and I did not put a lot a pressure on it :{ When I did the first spark plug change on my 98 Dak with a 318 everyone told me that they used an 800lb gorilla to put the plugs in, I guess he also does bleeder screws

Oh great! I'm willing to bet that almost everyone who lives in a Northern area will run into the same problem. Start saving up for new calipers.



-Ryan

 

[nickleinonen]

Oh great! I'm willing to bet that almost everyone who lives in a Northern area will run into the same problem. Start saving up for new calipers.



-Ryan

hmm... maybe when i take my truck in to have the u-joint changed out under warrrenty, i will let them bleed my brakes. . let them bust them open, not me... [i am scared to try now, but i know the rust proofing spray i use is good, and it gets into everything and drips for days. ]

 

[rbattelle]

Thank you once again, Dodge, for dropping a big old turd on us all. We really appreciate it.



Nick - good idea with the warranty, but be careful... they might claim it's your fault they're rusted and so you have to pay to have them replaced.



I'm going to try the other 3 bleeders on my truck one at a time. Maybe I'll get lucky and one or two of them will not snap.



-Ryan

 

[lmills]

Great!!! and me using the truck for snowplowing probably won't help matters. I guess I will put this on the list along with everything else.

 

[rbattelle]

lmills, your truck is only an '05. I'm willing to bet you could remove your bleeders without breaking them. Pull them now while you have the chance and coat them with anti-seize lubricant. Save yourself $500 in new calipers.



Brian - which of your calipers did you break, what year is your truck, and do your calipers look exactly like mine?



-Ryan