Bleeding The Hydraulic Clutch System

[Stab]

We installed a good working hydraulic clutch system off an '06 onto a '03 because the guy is trying to save some bucks. The system was working well on the '06 when removed. The system was NOT kept closed when it was off the vehicle. But we bleed it before installing, by pumping fluid through the line to the slave and then putting it all together.



Once on the truck we had to pump it close to 50 times to get some working pedal out of it and kept adding fluid the intire time. Noticing lots of airation in the fluid while doing this. No visable leaks. Finally got the system working OK, thinking the air would disapate over night. No pedal this morning. Had to pump maybe thirty times again to get any pedal. Any thoughts on bleeding this system efficiently and getting the air out completely?

 

[RHestand]

I'm pretty sure those are closed systems. ( Not ment to be bled. )

Just R&R as a unit.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The entire system (master cylinder, slave cylinder, and connecting line) should be handled as a unit. Mopar says that the line should never be disconnected. For a 2004, the part number is 52110495AF. Check the white plastic pin that goes through the clutch pedal for wear, and grease it upon re-assembly.

 

[Missouri Mule]

You will need two people.

Take the cover off the resivour. Take the slave cylinder off the bell housing.

While the one person watches for air bubbles in the resivour the other person is moving the rod of the slave cylinder very slowly in and out until there are no more bubbles in the resivour.



This is how it down on 2nd gen trucks.



Yes I know the service manual states it is one piece hydraulic system but several parts stores (NAPA is one of them) sell seperate parts for the clutch hydraulic system.

 

[WM-300]

You will need two people.

Take the cover off the resivour. Take the slave cylinder off the bell housing.

While the one person watches for air bubbles in the resivour the other person is moving the rod of the slave cylinder very slowly in and out until there are no more bubbles in the resivour.



This is how it down on 2nd gen trucks.



Yes I know the service manual states it is one piece hydraulic system but several parts stores (NAPA is one of them) sell seperate parts for the clutch hydraulic system.

Thats exactly how I bleed my systems. I buy the NAPA Slave cylinder

for the NV-4500 and couple that to new NAPA 1960 DOdge Clutch master Cylinders on my Power Wagon/Cummins conversions. Using the method described its quite easy to bleed the air. Keep the Clutch Slave hanging down in a vertical position with the hose end up.



Paul

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I just replaced the slave on my '01. I had the whole unit out, but it could be done on the truck, too. I had the reservoir in a vice on the bench, and had the slave on the floor. I filled the rervoir full and watched it start leaking out the slave. (Without the piston in it, to get all of the air out from the line down. ) Then I put the piston back in the slave cylinder and worked it in and out with my finger until air bubbles quit coming out the reservoir. (Maybe 15-20 times. ) I had my GF stand above the res and watch, when the air was all gone I capped it and installed. No problems with it yet.

 

[GCroyle]

Joe is right, Dodge sells a Pre Filled Clutch Hydraulic (PFCH) to service these applications. The aftermarket has components available for service as Missouri Mule and WM-300 have stated.



I put one together with all dry parts (off the vehicle) bled is as WyomingCowboy states. The unit assembles with roll pins and an o-ring type seal, these come wiht the new cylinders. It is not particularly difficult, it requires positioning the parts so air can flow up and out of the system, even having the MC tipped to allow flow of air into the reservoir. The big help is to point the SC straight down and slowly push it down completely forcing fluid out of it and flushing the bubbles out. It may help to tap on the line to dislodge bubbles also. While you are doing this, set up the SC against a steering wheel puller or any flat bar style puller, use the screw of the puller to block the piston from moving, push on the MC pushrod to test for air. Air will compress. When it is air free it will go rock hard in about 1/16" to 1/8" pushrod travel. Bolt it up.



Other signs that the system still has air are areation (sp ?) in the reservoir while pushing the clutch pedal, fluid geysers while pushing the clutch pedal. As a comparison, take the cap off of a completely working truck, watch the fluid as someone else pushes the pedal, should be calm fluid, no backflow.



Parts from the 2006 are G56, 2001 is NV5600. They will fit, no problem. One issue might be that the '06 has a 16mm MC bore diameter, the '01 bore is 18mm. This will result in about a 20% reduction in total release bearing travel, and a softer clutch pedal feel. If it releases, enjoy the creative and cost saving repair.



Good luck.