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Blew my top today

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ill transmission

16cm installed

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dpuckett

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#1- this is redundant, but the yeah hoos at Auto Zone would be hard pressed to differentiate their colo-rectal output orifices from a hole in the ground.



I had noticed a burning/ something hot smell under the hood the past day or two. You know how old tractor tires or maybe the steering wheel smell after years in the sun and the rubber starts to dry rot. I checked the belt, good. Then I started sniffing around, and noticed it strongest by the battery. I took it off, dropped it at AZ, and went and rode a horse at my firend's house to kill some time. Picked the battery up, and they siad it was good. The thing would barely crank the engine. Then it would only make 8volts, instead of the normal 13volts. So I drove it a little to see if it would charge up some. I got to town, and had noticed a rattling around under the hood (another noise from the usual dozen noises), so I popped the hood to check it out. I touched the battery and it was HOT. I went to O'Reilley's and asked my buddy there if that was a bad thing. He said it was, but he didnt have a Group 31 battery in stock.



On the way home, I stopped on the gravel to see what the rattling was, as I thought I had located it (the new one, not the other dozen that are now normal), and popped the hood to see a big wet mess all over the left side of the engine bay. Then I saw the vent cap had blown, so I hit the road, going 55 down the gravel road to get home and wash it off ASAP. I got it all washed off, and no major damage in the way of corrosion that I could tell. So, MOnday on my lunch break, I'm going to run over to Case and see what they have in the way of rebuilt batteries for around $30. AZ blew a chance to sell me an Optima battery. I'm not going back there, except to rip a few new exit orifices on a few numbskulls. ARRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!! I hate the swamp.



I plan to get the volt regulator checked while I have it all apart. Just when I almost have the $$$ to go home. I may have to stay here till the 24th. Oh well. I'll make up for it when and if I get out there.



Daniel
 
Thanks, Stomp.

My buddy at O'Reilley said it was most likely a dead (internal) short, since the volt reg was new. Hence it just built up pressure and blew. The thing is 10 yeasr old, according to the tag on top- has the 4 punched out, and it was old when I got it. I'm going to get a new battery Monday. Darn, I'll have to drive Mom's with the working A/C. Break my little heart in the 90+ weather.



-DP
 
DP, well c'mon tell us. What kind of battery made it 10 yrs in that truck? Probly a good ad for a el cheapo wallyworld battery... . I had a 8 yr old wallyworld battery finally go in a 85 D100... Bill
 
If you are out to get a battery I would get one from a truck place. Group 31's are nice. If you want the best make sure whatever you get is a stud type battery, and ditch the piece-of-junk post type. Use a little conductive grease and you are set for years of corrosion-free service. I would use atleast #2 (about 200 AMPs), preferably bigger. 2/0 is what I would use, and standard with many of the end fittings. Just crimp them on the end of the cables. Neopreme welding cable of 2/0 (or 00 - about 300 AMPs), and a stud battery that you will find in all the big rigs, is the best setup, especially with 2 batteries.



Speaking of batteries, is it just my truck or did these rams come with only one battery?
 
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Dan, mix up a good strong solution of baking soda and water and flush everything under there repeatedly, washing with fresh water after each flush. I know there are commercial products to do this, but it's the cheapest and easiest way to neutralize the aced residue. Just keep watching for signs of foaming and hit it again and again till it's non-reactive.





pb.
 
bgilbert, I think it was an Interstate.



Pastor Bob, thanks. I had forgotten about the baking soda, though looking at it this morning, it seems everything is fine- just some discoloration of plastic parts- p/s cap, paint on IP, etc. May do the soda wash and rinse to be safe anyway.



MRickard, what exactly do you mean by a #2? 2 gauge cable? Out west, where it is dry, I have never had a corrosion problem. I have had more corrosion here in the last 10mo than the previous 4 yrs combined, and it still isnt as bad as most.



All first Gen diesels came with 1 battery.



-DP
 
Auto Zone



There you go. No good trained parts people. The computer system is about worth less to. They have no trained mechanics for the free troubleshooting they are supposed to give. ROFLMAO



My rule with Auto Zone. If it is behind the counter. I do not need it. :D
 
The guys at Auto Zone are the ones that couldn't get a job at the dealer!!!!!!



dp any chance the grid heaters were staying on causing the battery to drain to 8 volts and heat up the battery and making it explode?
 
what exactly do you mean by a #2? 2 gauge cable?



Yep. That will work okay but if you lay on the starter it will get it warm. Not sure exactly how many amps it takes to crank a cummins when it is cold out, but #2 is only 200 (180 conservative). You have to crimp a bunch to fit the standard truck fittings onto one of them.



I am out West too, but close to the coast. I left mine sit a month and the posts had no conductivity at all. The posts have always given me probs, and I do not like the "squished" type connection - I like a "nut and bolt" type. Just my . 02
 
grid heaters

Turbo Tim1-



I dont THINK so, but you never can tell. I never heard anything click, so I'm doubting that. Once I got it going, itd ahow 13. 5 volts on the gauge, but if I turned it off, it didnt have enough juice to crank. I figure taking into account the 5 of 6 empty cells Sat AM, and the age, it was probably the battery. It ran down REAL fast. I'm gonna get an el cheapo battery for now just in case it is a wiring problem; then I aint out a $100 battery if it is. If it isnt an electrical problem, I haev a spare batt, or an extra for cold winter starting, as if I need more than 3 sec of cranking.



I think the starter on Mom's drew 200 amps 4 years ago when I had it checked out.



Daniel
 
It P***es me off to see how little alot of ppl know behind the desk but they pretend they do and sound confident... ill tell ya, alot of ppl are getting mislead out there :mad: Just like the guy @ Napa tryin to tell me that K&N was good. Ok, he wouldn't have got me cause I already made up my mind... but if i didnt know any better? I dont trust any yahoo behind any counter...
 
They problem with taking a battery to Auto Zone, NAPA, Shucks, etc. is they generaly just hook up a load tester and call it good. If a battery is ever questionable, get the refracometer out and check every cell's specific gravity. While you have the caps off, inspect for damaged plates and low acid levels. If the specific gravity is OK (i. e. battery is fully charged), perform a sulfation (internal short) test. Charge at forty amps and monitor voltage. If it climbs over 16 volts in under three minutes, I say replace it.



-Ben
 
Last time I replaced my battery I first checked the old one at my son's shop with his battery load tester. .

It tested as still being good according to the tester, but only about mid scale.

I knew it was bad... or at least not good enough for a diesel.

New battery solved all the problems...

Also took the time to replace the stock semi worn out battery cables with 2/0 cable and new crimp connectors. I have a crimp tool and made the cables myself.

I also put those stupid felt washers over the posts... and spayed the terminals with corrosion preventer... . and I have not seen any corrosion at all in 2 years.

Jay
 
baking soda / corrosion

Do the flush as Pastor mentioned. Do it throughly. More than once. You will be glad you did. If you look good you will see the bubbles when the soda and acid interact. Belive me it is still there just waiting for some water to set it in motion.



1stgen4evr

James
 
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