Blew Transmission!

[frank1]

Well thanks to this past weekend's blizzard on the east coast, I blew one of my automatic transmission's! With up to three feet of snow (w/snow drifts) and twenty eight hours of non stop plowing wiould take a toll on any transmission! I do have a temp. gage for the transmission and never noticed the trans. temp go over 160*.This particular's truck transmission had already bin "modified" by Level 10 transmission in Northern NJ back in 2006. I put on approximately 110,00 miles on the truck with the modified transmission.I did some researh on past posts and decided to have the transmission sent to Industrial Diesel in Norfolk Virginia. I called and spoke to Todd early this morning and he sounded like he new what he was talking about. I explained to him what the truck was used for and quoted me estimate of 4,400 - 4600 dollars for a complete "built transmission"and two to three days to complete. He also, stated that once he opened the transmission and if he could reuse any parts from the prevous build he would and that would effect the final price. Truck was towed to local transmission shop this morning, hope to get the transmission to Todd by the end of the week!Again, thanks to all fellow TDR members, you guys are wealth of information!!! If anyone has any suggetions on any modifications, I'd be glad to here from you!Thanks again, Frank

 

[Wayne M.]

Sorry to hear Frank. Sounds like you got good service from that unit though! I know Level 10, and they build good drag trannys, I guess you need the guy who know the right moves with this deal!
Yes the storm made history. Be safe!

 

[cerberusiam]

That is a lot of $$ for what should be a basic HD build. You don't need all the fancy go-fast pieces and tweaks. Just a solid stock rebuild with HD clutches, good TC, and a shift kit will suffice.

All that should be around $3000 give or take $500. It may depend on the condition when he gets it apart and he probably estimated high to make sure.

 

[frank1]

That would be great if the rebuild cost me only $3000 dollars! I had many break downs with this past storm! Todd will call me once he receives the transmission and wil give me a firmer price. On a side note, Wayne remember I bought a used Bobcat skid steer last week? Well ... it develped a oil or hydrostatic leak under the belly of the machine this evening! To tired to look at it tonight. It did help us out alot though. That's what happens when you buy used! Hopefully nothing serious!
Frank

 

[Wayne M.]

Hang in there Frank, maybe it's just a o-ring. Getting to it? HA! Machines leak right out from the cradle.

 

[frank1]

Just got a call from my local Transmission shop, he found the TV cable not attached to the transmission! He dropped the pan and the filter was completely plugged w/ crap! Changed the filter and the truck is now able to go into gear. What this shop thinks happened is there was no line pressure in the transmission and probably cooked the cluthes. He said he could repair it and leave the torque converter alone and save money that way. I don't feel comfortable w/ that answer! So, in the mean time I called Level 10 tansmission and actually spoke to Pat the owner. I explained to him what happened , he really what's to have the opportunity to open up the transmission and see exactly what failed. I decided to go with Level 10, again. So the truck will be towed to his shop in Hamburg, N.J. tomorrow. I'll keep you guy posted!
Frank

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, took out probably both the forwar4d and direct clutch packs. Little or no TV pressure will get them after a while. That fact that it moved after cleaning the filter is good news. Probably just need a cleaning and refresh of seals and clutch packs. If he has the setup he could probably flush the TC also but if the clutch has been slipping in it a rebuild would be in order for it also.

 

[frank1]

Cerberusiam, the TV cable had come off last winter also! Somehow I did't manage to "cook" everything then?Actually had more hours plowing last year then this year, (but no one storm had the total snow accumulation as this past storm!). Also, on a side note what turbo would you recommened for this truck. My existing one has a hole in it from all the salt it has seen in the past 13 years! Truck is really stock execpt for 4" exhaust and modded transmission, would a HE 351 CW be a good choice? Thanks, Frank

 

[cerberusiam]

It isn't so much that it cam off, it is how long it was off that does the damage. It probably hurt the trans the first time, the 2nd time it really hurt it. With a shift kit in them they will run a long time until it eats the clutches up but it will eventually do it.

Back in my race car days a friend of mine ran his car for 6 months in the season on a fresh trans build until it started slowing down and slipping. Had it freshened and was complaining they could not build a trans, blah, blah, blah. When he told me what they found I asked him if he had maxxed the TV pressure to hold the power. The deer in the headlight look was the first clue what was happening. Went and looked at his car and the TV lever was at a minimum and nothing hooked to it, its a race car and we don't need all that unnecessary linkage hooked to the 6 pack throttle linkage, right? :-laf

An HE351 would be a good upgrade for the 03-04 trucks. They can be hard to find a times, but, for a basic turbo the Borg Warner series is pretty decently priced. They are Shwitzer turbos so they have some experience behind them.

 

[frank1]

Cerb- thanks for the advice on the turbo! I found one at APG Turbos out in Arizona. A couple of questions though: They list two different turbos, 60-68-12 or 63-68-12, Billet wheel y/no, ceramic coat turbine black or silver, and polished compressor housing y/no. I thought the price of $1199.00 was very reasonable, but I bet if you added the above options the price would go up.Just trying to get everything done while the truck is down.
Thanks again- Frank

 

[cerberusiam]

The 60-68 is going to spool close to stock and support more than the stock turbo. The 63-68 is going to spool slower than stock and probably require a tuner to really shine in the mid and upper ranges. If it is a plow truck the 60-68 is probably the best bet.

The options for ceramic and polish are bling, up to you f you want them.

They claim 10% more power with a billet wheel, I was told by the tech rep for BW it is bogus. One of those things that is hard to quantify.

 

[frank1]

Cerb thanks for the quick reply ! Here's one more "curve ball", I was looking at the recept when I had the truck's transmission modified by level 10 back in 07'. They apparently tuned the truck with the Diablosport predator "mild tune", 60 RWHP and 120 lbs/ ft. TQ. Also, typed on the receipt is the following statement "The Predator is a state-of -the art, high performance tuning flash programmer. The transmission parameters are remapped to improve the shift characteristics such as shift firmness and shift points.Unlke other
"tuners", Diablosport's programming is performed in very small increments throughout the entire RPM range,for a smoother,wider and a more predictable power delivery." I completley forgot that they had installed this program! Again, no problems w/ the truck at all within the past nearly nine years and 100,000 miles. So .... should I go with the 63-68? - Many thanks!

 

[promisedland]

My .$02.... no. [63 vs 62].
A bigger turbo prob should have 'custom for your settup' tuning.
Because it is still a HE351CW frame, [it is, right?] this isnt quite as ness. A larger frame say, a S300 Borg Warner turbo, i was recommended to go with custom tuning so it spools ok.
I dont think you want a laggy turbo.

I am using a moded HE351CW turbo [Tater-Built Turbos] with a 62-89 compressor wheel and a 76-64 turbine wheel... spool-up is still good as the exh housing is still only a .65 A/R,.. [tight] and this helps
My turbo is called a 62/65/12.....recommended for stock injectors.
You are saying 62/68 and 63/68; so maybe its about the same thing! Hope not to bring confusin in on you, im still learning!

edit; is the turbo you looked at a BW S300? I couldnt find a HE351CW on there site.

edit one last time! ... Tom at Turbo Re-Source said this; a moded stock turbo is ok with 'box' tuning / if i want a BW S300 type turbo, i should go with EFI live or Smarty UDC= custom tuning for spool-up that i will like.

 

[RVTRKN]

I don't believe EFILive is available for that model year, only 06 to present MY.

 

[cerberusiam]

The .88 A/R is probably closer to 14 CM housing. The 68 extended tip turbine will help spool a bit. My concern would be spooling under a load plowing at low rpms with the 63 wheel. If it was a towing rig I think it would be fine with a little tuning. The 62 is probably a safer bet for your usage. Turbo's can be very picky about the setup and tune, what will work fine on one doesn't perform well on another. UDC or HP Tuners is what is available for the pre-06 trucks and custom tuning. Either is an investment beyond just a turbo.

 

[promisedland]

I don't believe EFILive is available for that model year, only 06 to present MY.

Right, i think he was giving his 'blanket' answer. Do custom tuning if you use a bigger turbo. He was being carefull with his advice.

HP has efi type tuning now for 03-05 Rams and Smarty is bringing out UDC PRO very soon [Droolin!]

 

[frank1]

Okay guys, thanks for all the replies. Now I'am totally confused (doesn't take much these days!). What I'am I looking at here: a 60/68/12 or a 62/68/12??? By the way organic farmer how to you like your tater built turbo? Need to get something ordered soon. Truck finally made up to Level 10 transmission this afternoon, should be ready by Monday (provided the dealer has cooler lines in stock,mine where qustionable, second set).
Thanks, Frank

 

[cerberusiam]

A 62\68\12 would be great, 60\68\12 would be close to stock. It depends on which turbo you were looking at, the one on that site you referenced that is setup for the 3rd gens with a waste gate is a 14cm turbine housing equivalent. The 63 wheel is going to but more air, give more air at the top end, better air at low and mid-range. Downside is it will take more fuel to spool it and it will be slower than stock.

You really haven't detailed HOW you use and drive the truck, what trans, gears, etc. That will determine more of what you want in a turbo than anything.

 

[promisedland]

I really like my TATER, i'm not a data freak so i dont have have hard #ers to prove my words but it does spool well, truck HAS less drive psi and it sounds great! I wanted a stock look. This kept me from using a diff frame turbo. Tater was great to deal with. A Holset 341 or 351 can be set up the same; After machineing there basic the same.

I just put a Goerend TC in my Ram based on what Cerb. said..... His advice is sound, prob more so then mine!
Sorry for the confusion! Turbos need to be matched to your set-up just as Cerb. said. Tires/ gearing/ usage ....

Dont be in to big a hurry! $1100+- is just to much to do it twice
I did a lot of searches/reading before getting mine. I didnt read any treads of folks that hated there 62-65 Taters. Stock injectors with or with/out a tuner, this is what he advised.

Here is what my 'usage' list was::= daily driving and towing, quick spooling with less back psi, 3.73 gearing, 32/33'' tires. Running a 90hp Smarty tune with torque set at mild.

 

[frank1]

Well I spoke to the transmission shop earlier today. The oil pump "blew up", he's going to tear aprart the torque convertor and rebuild it & new clutches and super pump. I told him I need to buy a new turbo for the truck and asked him what will the added H.P. with all the new parts and the tuning from the Diablosport program would be. His answer ... 100 h.p and 200 ft.lbs. at the wheels! So with that information I called AGP Turbo and ordred a 62/68/14 turbo. They are out of them at the moment (two weeks out). Again, the truck is stock execept for BD exhaust manifold,4" exhaust ,4"deep air filter, Modded transmission,3.73 rear,285/85/17 tires,(third truck in my sig). Thanks to all, will keep you posted. Frank