2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Blew up the steering box!

[Big MAK]

Plowing along, pushing snow off parking lot islands so people can see to turn, etc. Going about 5mph, left wheel hits really big block of ice (let's just call it a concrete wall), wheel hooks, steering wheel spins, screw in steering box drives right out the bottom -- blows it out. Busted. Metal blown apart like china.

No steering, no brakes.

Wrestle one ton truck home with 800lb plow hanging off the front (not easy). I have new appreciation for power steering and power brakes.

No-one carries the steering box for that truck. I'm DOA and snow on the way (darn).

Figure I'll get a jump on the repairs and start taking the old box out. Get lines disconnected, pitman retaining nut off, put on pitman puller. Using an 18 inch long wrench, a 4 foot pry bar, I can barely turn the puller nut. In fact, it started to flatten. How do you get the pitman arm off???? Is there a trick to it? Have to take the tension off it somehow?

Observation: our trucks don't appear to have wheel stops!? You can turn the steering wheel just so far; but nothing actually stops the wheel travel should you hit something.

Should I upgrade some steering components while I have it in pieces? The steering shaft comes to mind. The retaining nut for it was really mushy. Hard to turn but mushy.

 

[drawson]

Mark try tapping on the bolt of the puller and the vibration will help break the ptmond arm loose. Good luck with this and have a merry christmas if possible.

Dee

 

[JB @ C and L Machine]

Do u have access to a torch set to warm up the pitman arm?

 

[Mike Vonada]

Mark,
Bummer man, sorry for the busted steering gear! Good advice on how to get the pitman arm off from these guys.
I would definitely recommend a steering box from AGR, high output. Great box have one on my jeep with 35" tires and serious rock crawling with no problems.

 

[Rebel]

Mark,
In 20+ years of turning wrenches for dollars the 'FIRE WRENCH' has never let me down. Good luck.

------------------
1997 2500 Ext Cab 4X4,5 spd,3. 54's,Pac brake,Rancho 9000's,Centerforce clutch,K&N airfilter,Missing Cat,Isspro gauges,and #11plate(280hp/680tq)AFC medium spring

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Mark,

This must be a nightmare. Sorry to hear about it.

I used a good heavy duty pitman arm puller and it pulled right off. Make sure your puller is specially made for a pitman arm. Try some hits with a heavy hammer on the arm to loosen it. They say not to use heat on steering components. But as a last resort, I'd do it.

You can get a replacement OEM box below. I was very happy with mine. He could probably overnight or second day air it Tuesday.

Older post:

I replaced the steering box on my 94 Dodge.
When I changed tires , I was getting vague steering. It was percieved as play in the steering box. Real tough to pin down what it was. The Dodge dealer thought it probably was the steering box. Quoted me 800 something for a new one
I called a company called,

Steer & Gear
1000 Barnett rd
Columbus, Ohio
1-800-253-4327

They have remanufactured steering gear chucks for all Chrysler(only ,they specialize) products. They say the units meet or exceed factory specs. Also they say that the boxes are every bit as dependable as a new unit-at a better price.

The Dodge boxes years,'94-'00 are $195. 00 with exchange. (prepaid postage in box for core return) Not available in quick ratio

I was very happy with their service. The box was great too. It was as tight as a new one.

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[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-24-2000). ]

 

[illflem]

Mark what Hemi says about not putting a torch to steering parts is correct,you can cause the steel to lose it's temper. What I've been using instead of a torch for the last few years is a heat gun for all the tuff ones,it won't overheat things or scorch any adjacent parts. Great for hard to remove hydraulic hoses also,won't melt the rubber. You can pick up a 1200° one for $30-$70 depending on the quality you want. Mine is one of my most used tools,I get some tuff nuts to bust with Ag equipment. If you are using a good pitman puller don't be afraid to wail on it with a hand sledge,they're meant for it.

As a caution,I lost part of one of my front teeth when a puller broke and a pea sized piece of steel flew out and hit me in the mouth. I wear a full face shield around those things now. Pullers and snap rings are probibly the most dangerous part of wrenching,they can fly like a bullet when they cut lose.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 12-24-2000). ]

 

[Big MAK]

Thanks for the advice. Looks like the truck will be holding down the driveway for several days. I feel sick. Here's the rest of the story: been plowing three years and one hour before this episode I caused my FIRST body damage backing into a grocery cart rack (shorter then the truck bed; and I didn't check that mirror that time). Cracked the fiberglass fender in several places (couldn't hit the bumper now could it?). Knew it would happen someday, swinging that big truck around in tight places. Criminy. Hopefully I'm disaster proofed for a while.

Keep the advice coming, I need it. I'll look into the AGR steering gear. Also the heat gun idea -- think I'll give it a try. A tighter steering gearbox would sure be nice and now's the time.

One heck of a day. Guess I'll look at the bright side -- get to upgrade parts and I don't even need an excuse! If it wasn't so cold (sub-zero laying in the driveway working on the truck) I'd almost enjoy it.

Merry Christmas anyway!

 

[Briar Hopper]

Mark, I had to remove a pitman arm once, when I was installing a SuperRunner steering assembly on my Ford F150. we ended up torching it a little, the heat expands the metal, then while it cools, you can hammer it off. But it's not a good idea, a lot of things can go wrong, and held in one place too long, it will temper the metal. Not a problem in my case, I was scrapping every bit of the steering equipment. It's the splined steering shaft you don't want to temper or break, but then I'm not telling you anything you don't already know.
I've seen "forks" in Auto Zone and Sears , like ball joint separators, including one that was SPECIFICALLY for pitman arms. One of those tools that you don't have in your toolbox, and always need after 9 P. M. or during holidays...
Sorry to hear about your misfortune.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Save all the pieces of your dually fender so you can glue it back together and strengthen it at the joints with some fiberglass cloth. New ones are very expensive. Back in the old days, there was a Saginaw steering box with 75 cast into it. It had extra reinforcements but I think ours do too. The aluminum top cover was solid too. While checking into replacements, make sure it has all the good stuff.
Too bad you aren't here. Around 70 deg. in midday, #ad
but no snow so you would be unemployed #ad

 

[CPFF]

Mark The trick I use to remove pitman arms, tierod ends etc. ,is back off the nut, hold a heavy hammer against one side of the arm at the taper and strike the oppisite side sharply with a lighter hammer. Usually after a few good blows it will release the taper.
Good Luck
P. S. I also know what its like working under a truck in below "0" weather - been there done that a few times - no fun at all.

CPFF

 

[illflem]

Mark,if you have or can get a tarp big enough to cover your truck to the ground you can place an electric heater under there to keep things toasty,even the block heater will warm it up under there if the space between the truck and ground is covered. Numb or gloved hands can be a bummer to work with,you'd be really surprised how much a thin tarp will keep the heat in. You can even tape old blankets or plastic painting tarps over the open space to keep the heat in. Take it from someone who's been there and done that.

 

[Big MAK]

New steering gear: $685 (gear only)
New fender: $1050 (fender only; not even painted)

Steering gear off totaled '99 at salvage yard: $250 (phew)

I'll be gluing the fender back together when it gets warm.

What's likely to need adjusting when I get it back together? Everything I've read says to mark everything and put it back together the same way to keep things lined up -- but I'm not bothering since the steering wheel was at 3 o-clock with nearly an entire rotation required to effect any steering action. So before I bolt it back together I'll center the wheel. I'm thinking of making an appointment for a suspension shop to re-allign and adjust once it's drivable.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Your problem was probably the steering box so I would center the steering wheel in its travel. There is a clock spring for the airbag that has only so many turns either way before it gets tight. You want it in the center of its travel too, with the wheels pointed straight.

 

[Big MAK]

Replaced the steering gear last night, managed to mess up the knuckle on the end of the drag link. Was surprised by how soft the metal on that is. Must follow a 'bending is better then breaking' philosophy on those knuckles; seemed like aluminum (actually, the nuts are).

It pressurized after cranking the wheel several times and the steering is back. Braking is working but is taking longer to work the air out. Brakes good with some pulsing thats getting better really quick.

Dropped off at allignment shop for new drag link end and re-allignment. They want to replace the track bar with a TRW component for $185. I'd rather do it myself but they'll stand behind the allignment job if they do it so I told them to go ahead. Already saved over a grand doing the steering gear myself anyways.

Truck is back on the road tonight! With some minor body damage...

All things considered not too bad.

ps: Michael Brolin tells me those are "SMC" fenders not fiberglass. Thanks for the heads-up Michael! A different repair epoxy is needed.

 

[Josparkz]

Steering question

Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

Your problem was probably the steering box so I would center the steering wheel in its travel. There is a clock spring for the airbag that has only so many turns either way before it gets tight. You want it in the center of its travel too, with the wheels pointed straight.

Does this mean , that with the steering shaft removed , the wheel could flip over and be one rvolution off to one side ?

The reason I'm wondering is that I just changed my steering shaft and now I have a noisy pump. I'm wondering if the wheel got spun arond on me. I'm definetely starting to worry about the new noise.

Thanks.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Josparkz

If your steering wheel spun around when you had your old steerring shaft out you would have broken the clockspring on the first sharp turn. It would sound like plastic cracking in the steering wheel. Your ABS light would be illuminated all the time and the cruise control wouldn't work.



If you still have the OEM fluid in the power steering system it's due for a flush. Re-fill it with a good high quality fluid like Royal Purple EZ max or Valvoline Synpower PS fluid.

 

[Josparkz]

Originally posted by HEMI®Dart

Josparkz

If your steering wheel spun around when you had your old steering shaft out you would have broken the clockspring on the first sharp turn. It would sound like plastic cracking in the steering wheel. Your ABS light would be illuminated all the time and the cruise control woulds't work.



If you still have the OEM fluid in the power steering system it's due for a flush. Re-fill it with a good high quality fluid like Royal Purple EZ max or Valvoline Synpower PS fluid.

Well then , it doesn't sound like I broke the clockspring . I know at one poin tin the shaft changeover process I forgot to secure the wheel and don't know how much I moved it .

I changed to that synpower fluid a few years ago . May be time for another change. I had to grind the end off of the shaft on the box to get that real nice Flaming River u-joint on all of the way . I wondered if that and the different shaft changed the harmonics of it .

I did adjust the bearing pre-load when I had the shaft off . I did that once before , and did not have any change in the sound of it. BTW , the sound I am referring to is when the wheel is turned all one way or the other.

Thank you.

Joe