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Block Heater and 110V pump

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Occasional bucking from the engine when cold

Premature clogging of air filter

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Question, has anyone tried putting a bypass 110V low volume pump in the heater line. . This pump would recirulate antifreeze trough out the motor and heat coli in the cab, while the block heater is pluged in. ?????



and then mabey a small fan in the heat box to move air in the cab, the type of fan you would find in your computer power supply... .



Ken
 
I have seen low volume rec pumps for the house to rec water to a far bathroom from the water heater they are kind of pricy like $150 so i will keep an eye out for something out. mabey this spring... !!!!
 
The factory block heater really isn't overly strong, 750 watts to be exact, when it is -10 outside and the truck has been plugged in since it was shut off 12 hours before it still kicks on the intake heaters when started (that means less than 59 degrees IAT). Infact the otherday mine even idled up to high idle after the grid cycles. Now add a pump to the system where you have minimal heat and start circulating it, it's going to be even colder. As soon as the truck starts you have warm water in the heater core so why bother circulating it? It's not going to warm the truck at all without the fan blowing (ooopps, just re-read your post and saw the small fan thing). In theory it sounds good but I think it's a big can of worms. They make heaters that go into the heater core lines and circulate the water but I seem to remember people having trouble with those. Kinda like this one.



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I am wondering if the coolent would circulate thru the heater core with the engine off. I took a look today and it looks like there are valves that need to open to circulate the coolent. The best system I have ever seen is on my Volvo TGB-11. The Swedish Military had coolent heaters, both stationary and portable. My TGB-11 has 2 quick connects that are in the coolent circuit. WHen the truck is not in use, you can plug in 2 hoses to continously flow hot coolent thru the engine, from the stationary or portable coolent heaters. It would take a little plumbing, deal with the valves in the system, but you would have a hot engine and hot heater all the time.



Paul
 
Originally posted by Turbo Tim 1

The factory block heater really isn't overly strong, 750 watts to be exact, when it is -10 outside and the truck has been plugged in since it was shut off 12 hours before it still kicks on the intake heaters when started (that means less than 59 degrees IAT). Infact the otherday mine even idled up to high idle after the grid cycles. Now add a pump to the system where you have minimal heat and start circulating it, it's going to be even colder.

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I agree. I suppose with a big enough heating element, it could work. Check out the Espar? Someone on here has one and loves it... I forget who now.
 
In severly cold weather when you must park outside, the factory block heater is pretty ineffective at shortening the warmup time. Its only purpose would be to warm up the oil so that it will circulate good enough to start the engine.



However don't overlook the advantage of a garaged truck plugged into a timer. I put a blanket over my engine at night when I put her to bed, and plugged her in so that i get about 4-6 hours of heating before I take off. Outside temp was about 40; my truck was garaged and has the Lund winter front on it, and my intake air temperature was 120 degrees this morning "stone cold"
 
Take a look at my pics. My block heater did great! The truck was covered in ice, except the front.



JRG
 
Have used lots of tank type heaters on different tractors. Have had little, to no trouble, with them. Had one on my old gasser Ford truck. It does help keep the windows clear if you leave the temp control in the hottest setting. It was plumbed in the heater circuit. Never had any problems with leaks of any kind.
 
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