block heater/seals/door

[JApplegate]

first and most important. when i plug my truck in... the block heat doesn't work. ad i really need it because it takes toooo long to warm up when i'm trying to go to a fire call. i changes my radiator fluid and never unpluged it. did i burn it up??? and how much of a pain is it to replace it?



seals and a new door. i have given up on fixing the drivers door. the top of the door stick out and i can't get it to close and when it rains. . it rains inside. and when it's cold outside... it's cold inside... any suggestions on where to get a new one and the cheapest way to go. i suspect it would be to get a door with nothing on it and move everhting over to the other door, like the window, handle. lock, ect.

also on that same note, i would want to replace the seals for that door when i replace it. any suggests on where to get a set?



thanks guys

 

[JLEONARD]

On the heater... check the cord for continuity first. That was my problem and I looked there because it's a common issue. Mine broke/frayed just behind the male plug from all the handling over the years. A new end solved the problem.

 

[Philip]

On the door take a chunk of 2x4. Place it between the door and the Jam about even with the bottom of the window. Close the door against the 2x4 then push hard on the top of the door. This will bend the top of the door in. Body shops use this trick to get a good seal on a out of racked door assy. You might need to do do it more than once to get the perfect fit.

 

[rumblefish]

On the heater... check the cord for continuity first. That was my problem and I looked there because it's a common issue. Mine broke/frayed just behind the male plug from all the handling over the years. A new end solved the problem.

Mine did this too. I didn't have to check for continuity though. The morning I was leaving for work and it arced on the front bumper as I unplugged it was enough to convince me that I needed a new plug.

 

[Greenleaf]

Block Heater Change-Out

Sell the truck. I'm serious. Just unload that thing now. Walk away. Set the keys down and walk away. :-{}



I'd pay big bucks for a block heater puller. Wonder if a slide hammer version would work? Or a combination slide hammer/lady foot?



I changed one last week in a 5. 9 ISB. They thread in. Must have been torqued to 585 lbs ft torque.



Good luck there. You can buy just the cord if... IF you can get the cord loose from the element.



I test them with my DVOM set to Ohms. I see 19 ohms generally. Sometimes 12 but somewhere in between is green-4-go. Be sure to check for a grounded element too.

 

[JApplegate]

the door is split on the outside... but i will try to ur 2x4 trick first (cheaper) but are u serious that is that much work to get the block heater out???? i thought it would be easy!

 

[JLEONARD]

Jimmy I just sent you an e mail... I might have a door.

 

[Greenleaf]

To be honest, they don't pull out. The O ring is siezed to the cast iron. Then there is nothing to grab ahold of... ... ... ... ... ..... If you try to pull on the terminals, well, they are copper so.....



I have used large prybars and work then out one side at a time. Front,rear/front/rear. . over and over. Thing is, there is struff in the way to prevent use of a prybar. Use a short fat prybar. The ones that look like a fat screw driver but the end is a fat, flat blade. (Snap-on for $30. 00)



Once you drain out the coolant, which runs all over the lower rad support, you will want to refill with the cyl head plug out. It's next to the upper rad. hose/thermo housing. Fill to the coolant just begins to flow. This removes most of the air. Then, as per instructions, you have to cycle the thermo a couple times to bleed out more air PRIOR to plug-in.



Four hours easy. Five if you stop 2 drink some coffee. :-laf

 

[JApplegate]

i think i smell a well placed tourch is in line lol

 

[PToombs]

I've changed several, and haven't had any problems. Each truck is different. Take your time and try it, see what happens.

 

[JApplegate]

thanks guys... yea i just ordered one... . about 70$... . i'm just gonna have to bite the bullet on this one and fix it...

 

[JLight]

japplegate do you have a part number and where did you purchase it? Thanks for the info!

 

[KOG]

Leaving the heater plugged with no coolant will destroy it immediately.

 

[JApplegate]

i went to the dodge dealer and ordered it. i maybe be able to find the part number if u need it, but i'm pretty sure i threw the box and old one out. it's a little pricey there but i only got two wrong parts there out of like hundreds i've ordered. plus i get a 20% discount on what i buy.
on a side note i pulled mine out... just take your time, move with caution and have a long handled flat chisel and a hammer handly (hammer in pry out, move to bottom or other side repeat) i pulled the air intake off (i already took out my air box) and don't forget to unscrew ur power cord first!! gets rid of the temptation to pull on the cord and rid it out.