Block Heater Timer

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Wanted to purchase a 110vac timer for my block heater, my question is what amperage does the heater operate at? will just the standard household variety work? Any suggestions?

Thanks, Chuck

2001QC 4x4 lwd stock for now.

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Most the timers I have used for other heating equipment that is 110v has been 40 amp. (Here is an example of one. ) They sell a prewired watertight 24 hour time control at a company that I buy farm relate items from. (www.TekSupply.com)or any supply store. My . 02 cent worth

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01'2500 Q\C LWB white,HO-6-spd. ,3. 54,4-disk brakes,trailer tow, camper special,custom bolt-in G/N, See'ya down the road Michael

 

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Most household timers are rated at about 15 amps - the block heater in my '91 is rated at 750 watts as I recall, or about 6 amps or so...

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Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

 

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That is what my timer is rated at also. 15 amps. It works okay.
What I'd really like is a temperature regulated device with a duration control. For example, I want to plug the truck in, but I only want it to run for 20min/hr. only when it's below 40 degrees. Is there such an animal?
The reason for this and not a timer is my truck needs to be ready at any time. It's what I take to the fire station. Waiting for those heaters can be a pain. Anyone have any ideas?

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'99 2500 ISB QC SLT (No Leather!), 4x4, 5sp, 4:10, 275inj. , PE, 4"exh. , Pac-Brake, A-Pillar gauge pod w/boost and pyro, Line-X, V-1, lights, siren, lic. plt. frame says "Diesel Fumes Make Me Horny!", and much more goofy stuff.

 

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I use a device called a Thermo Cube(Ace Hardware $19). It's meant for heaters or lights to protect pipes from freezeing,turns on at 35. Just plug it in past your timer.

 

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15 amp timer works for the block heater same as the living room light.

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4-sale or Trade
'99, 3/4, QC, SLT, 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 3. 5xlsd, tow pac, HD tcase, tow mirrors, camper pac, White over driftwood, Mist gray interior. With less than 19,500 miles.

 

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Amianthus, I reread your question. In your case put the themo cube,or something similar,before the timer. You can buy household timers that run in 1/2 hour increments,set it to run every other half hour 24 hours a day. That way your block heater only runs only half the time when the thermostat starts the timer. I would think that would be long enough unless the temp dropped way below zero.
Now that I think of it,it doesn't matter what side of the timer the thermostat is connected to nor what time of day the timer is set to.



[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 10-23-2000). ]

 

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I suggest you just leave it plugged in through a thermostat switch only. It wont hurt anything except your electric bill (if it's cold enough to stay on). The trouble I see with the timer is that it would shut off at your set time (20min/hr. ), possibly allowing your engine to cool back down if it stays cold out and you don't need to start the engine then. You could put the timer before the t-switch, but it sounds like you don't really know what time to set it for (can be any time?) so that won't do much good unless you have a certain time frame to work within. I plug my 96 in all winter long (about 11 1/2 months a year #ad
) it's so much easier on the engine.

my 2¢

 

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I purchased my timer from True Value. It is rated to use on block heaters. You would need to have the heater on at least 3 hours to do any good. I usually dont use it unless the overnight temps are going into the mid to low 30s. Its mild where I live here in Oregon compared to Alaska.

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2001 HO 6spd,Quad cab,LWB,4x4,Flame Red,all options except for leather,Westin Brushguard/Push bar,Painless wiring,Radio Shack CB( so what it works},my own designed CB mount,Smittybuilt nerf bars,NW Custom rocker covers(more to come)

 

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I have mine on a H. D. outdoor timer. Right now, it's set to run for two hours (just before I leave in the A. M. ). Our lowest morning temp. has been 25 F and I have usable heat within one mile of driving. The grid heater/wait to start light, has not activated so far using this amount of "on" time. According to the manual, the engine block heater draws 6. 5 amps.

Scott W.

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White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro and boost gauges and a M. I. A. blow by bottle !!!

 

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I agree with Bigsaint. I also use a H/D outdoor timer I have programmed to turn on 2 hours before I leave for work. Even at 20 degree F. temps. I have never had the intake heaters cycle at start up..... except for the time my wife unplugged the timer for about an hour, screwing up syncronization. #ad
#ad
#ad
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[This message has been edited by John (edited 10-24-2000). ]

 

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Thanks for the input going to Home Depot today to see what I can find, Should be pretty easy!!!

Thanks again,

Chuck

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This is my first season with a block heater. Question: Do any of you have trouble with rain or ambient moisture collecting on the heater/extension cord connection and throwing a breaker or any such problems? This hasn't happened to me yet, but...

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'95 2500 SLT LB 2WD, auto 3. 54, 67,000--Westech gauges, Prime-loc, Brite box, Back-off Box, Line X, Flowmaster muffler, Borgeson steering shaft

 

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#ad
I got my timer for $6. 99 at K-Mart #ad

Rated for 15A, worked great for a year now.

I plug in 8 months out of the year (stays over 70 almost always during peak months)

I'll probably do like John and get a good outdoor timer to use at work to plug in during the day when it's really cold out.

Vaughn

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"Blue Thunder" & Friends
'01 2500 QC Shortbed 2wd, Patriot Blue over Driftwood, HO 24v Cummins & 6-speed, 3. 54LSD, Cab & Fog lamps, Camper & Tow Pkg.
BOMBings: RV injectors, PS Boost module, Amsoil air filter, straightpiped exh. , SS fuel lines, debadged body, AutoMeter Sport Comp gauges, Amber turn signals, 55w halogen rev. lights.

 

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Thanks guys for the great replies. illflem, I went to Ace today and got the Thermocube. I also got a new timer. One that has 24 events per day on it. That was a great idea. I think the best way to use it is to put it after the timer. That way the timer will cycle on a pre-set schedule, but the heaters will only work if it is also below 35F.
As far as moisture goes, I don't have that problem. One, it spends the night in a garage. Second, I use a Kussmaul auto-eject for the heater and charger. So I don't really have a problem with moisture.
Thanks again for the great idea.

 

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Kodiak, good question.

I would suggest that everyone use a good GFI to insure you don't light up if the cord or plug is wet. Cheap insurance!!! You can get a replacement outlet with a built in GFI which is easy to install or you can get a plug in unit. This will cost a bit more but doesn't need to be wired in. Another possible reason to use a GFI would be to prevent damage to the truck computer if something were to happen and a jolt of 110 went to the truck.
Oh yea - make sure the circut is a grounded circut and the cord is equiped with a ground prong. Some older houses still have the 2 prong outlets without a ground.

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, PW Injectors,Auto w/4. 10 rear with limited slip, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 31/2" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 146K

 

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One other thing I use is an extension cord with a lighted female end when energized. It helps to remind you to plug in and lights the way for the male end while doing so. I also have the ex cord and the truck heater cord safely bomb proofed attached,at first this was for when I forgot to unplug,now I never unplug, just go in reverse,the lighted plug ends up hanging from a beam in my carport about two feet from the ground. It also makes a good target to aim for when pulling in.

 

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I am using a X10 outlet controlled by my computer. When the temp goes below 30, the computer turns the outlet on a hour before I leave in the moring. So if I know that it might get below 30 at night, I plug the truck in and I am ready to go in the morning.

I like the idea about the lighted end on the extension cord. Where do you find these? I have never seen one.

I use the same system to turn lights on/off to make it look like someone is home when we are not there. Or turn all the lights off when we go to bed at night. Press one button and all the lights go off.

[This message has been edited by Michael Hughes (edited 10-26-2000). ]

 

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Micheal,most hardware stores have them if not, http://www.grainger.com/cgi-bin/item_detail?4390276Y3ZK65,remember it only lights when energized. Not a problem for me,as our temps stay below 35 for three months,and we have cheap power,I don't use a timer ,only a thermostat.

I'd like to know more about your power controller and software,I'm sure others would also. Any websites?
Bill


[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 10-26-2000). ]

 

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Amianthus, if it's any comfort to you, your cummins WILL start at least down to thirty degrees F with no block or manifold pre-heat. I have started and driven off (with some white smoke) at twenty-five below with only the manifold heater for assistance, so the good people at Cummins have a well-proven design as far as I'm concerned. I do use a standard hardware-store cheapo timer (on a GFI circuit) for a couple of hours in the winter when there is no rush, but defrosting the windshield is about all I can do for heat for about five miles; the price of efficiency!