Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Block heater wire gauge - anyone know?

[Blakers]

My block heater cord burned off just behind the plug so I want to splice on a new plug. Does anyone know the gauge of wire used in the cord?



Thanks.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The block heater pulls about 7 1/2 amps as I recall - but if you have an ACE hardware available, look for one of their wire/plug leads in the electrical department with a 3-prong 110 volt molded on plug on the end - grey in color, and a sorta flat cable with 3 wires - a hot, neutral and center ground wire - that oughta do ya just fine...

 

[QRTRHRS]

Any idea why it burned off? I have seen these block heaters short. FWIW, the cable screws on at the block and is easily replaced provided it is not corroded on. I replaced mine with a bumper mounted "trap door" receptical.

 

[illflem]

Perfect time to spice on a longer cord so the plug makes it to the drivers side, easier to plug, unplug and remember. 16 ga cord will be plenty. Sometimes the plug will burn up if the truck end is wet or caked with snow. I make a habit out of ragging mine off before plugging in.

 

[Blakers]

Thanks guys. It burned a small hole in the cord where it meets the plug. Arcing was shooting out of the hole when I plugged it in, so I immediately unplugged it. I presume salt water seeped into the joint at that point.



Rather than use a replacement plug end that disassembles and would allow moisture in, I figure I'll just use a lenght of cord with an end already sealed on and just make a splice away from the plug. I'll solder it and seal it good with shrink tubing.



Happy New Year all!

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I haven't looked closely at the block attachment point - but if some sort of strain-relief isn't provided to take cord mvement and stress from that point, it should be... (We don't need block heaters much here in the Sacramento valley area... )

 

[QRTRHRS]

The cord plugs in and has a knurled nut that screws onto the heating element. When I replaced mine, I put some RTV on the threads to keep them from corroding. There is no support for the cable. I tie wrapped mine to the battery ground cable and a few other points for stability.

 

[formula]

I had the same thing happen a couple of weeks ago. The problem seems to be caused by stress and bending of the wires where they enter the plug. Remember, always pull the plug, not the cord I got a nice new plug (don't get a cheapie) from Sears hardware for about $8. I made sure that the clamp on the plug would be small enough to hold onto the wire real tight. When I put the new plug on I sealed everything up with silicone. The added support from the clamp on the new plug should prevent this failure from happening again. The wire appears to be 16ga. which is plenty big enough. As for current carrying ability: 16ga = 10A, 14ga = 15A, 12ga = 20A



Sean