Block Heater Woes

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I have been using the block heater every winter for an hour or two before i go to work and it just started blowing the house breaker as soon as it is plugged in. I have read the related entries about checking for 16-24 Ohms to see if it is ok. I will do that today after work but i am sure it is bad, it is not the timer or the extension cord. What i need to know:
. is it replaceable?
. is it accessable?
. where it it?
. has anyone done this before that can provide pointers?

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96 2500 extended cab full bed with a cap. 100% Amsoil with bypass oil filter. Everything else stock except bypassing the RWAL (rear wheel antiloc) operation so the truck will now stop when i hit the breaks without turning my hair white.

 

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Andy,it most likely is the block heaters cord,the cord runs though the hot area close by the exhaust and could have melted. Mine is removable from the heater coil,don't know if you can buy it separate though. Usually when these type of heaters burn out they just detereate and don't work,won't flip the breaker. If when you check the resistance it's real low or shorted first check the cord for damage. If the cord looks ok,remove it from the coil and check that it's open,if it isn't replace the cord. If you have to replace the coil be prepared to change your coolant also,most will come out when you unscrew the coil. If the resistance is in the proper range it could be the breaker,I've had ones go bad especially if they've been tripped a lot,they start tripping at a lower amperage than they're rated for. Try trading the breaker with another similar one in the panel or just replace it. The block heater is easy to find,,just follow the cord.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

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Andy,

I agree with illflem. You can purchase block heater cordset seperately. Best bet would be the dealer. If the block heater is bad, it's a breeze to change. Just need to drain a few gallons of coolant. Maybe an hours work. I have changed mine once or twice.

Try Napa or Acme to see if they can get Zerostart products. I got mine thru Acme. They are the suppliers to Dodge of our block heaters. Get the new heater element & cordset thru them.

If you need me to walk you thru changing it, let me know.

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-03-2001). ]

 

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Thanks for the good info. i will keep the suppliers name if i need it in the future. IllFlem had it right. One thing i forgot and caused my own problem. i made a 4 ft heavy duty extension cord to allow hookup on the left side of the truck instead of the right side. it makes it easier to connect. In my zeal (4 years ago) i wrapped the plug connection (factory end to extension end) in electrical tape to protect from water etc. What must of happened is over the years the tape dried out and allowed water to leak in and it must of been trapped and pooled causing a short. it actualy melted the extension cord female connector. I removed my extension cord, cleaned the factory male plug and it works like a charm. Problem gone. thanks again.

 

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Andy,and I thought I was the only one who moved the cord to the drivers side,much easier not to have to cross over to the other side,especially if you have to walk thru snow. I cut the plugs off though,then spliced the cords together with solder and heat shrink tubing-bomb proof.

I didn't realize till recently that Dodge shortened the cords on the 24 valve,it doesn't make it outside the engine compartment,some of those 24 v guys are opening the hood every time they plug in,what a pita.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 01-03-2001). ]

 

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I must have got lucky, as my heater cord sticks out about 5 inches onto the bumper. Would hate to have to raise the hood every time to plug it in. Must get shorted when they are running low.

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Bert
2001. 5,3500 QC 4x4, HO/6spd,limited slip,BD brake,60 gal Aero tank.

 

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BadAndy. Are you the Dominos character ? #ad
#ad

 

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i keep reading in the posts about the block heater. living here in west texas it's not usually cold enough to worry about it, but i figured i'd look into it anyway. i've looked all over the place and can't find a cord/plug anywhere. my dad has a ford (i know, i know... . i tried to tell him) and i can find his. can someone give me an idea where i'm supposed to be looking?

 

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Jeff H... ... ... ... Yes, i like the Bad Andy character on the Dominos commercial so i chose it as my TDR name.

K. Vickers... ... ... My cord (96 2500) and my friends cord (95 3500) is just behind the front bumper on the passenger side, can't miss it.

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96 2500 extended cab full bed with a cap. 100% Amsoil with bypass oil filter. Everything else stock except bypassing the RWAL (rear wheel antiloc) operation so the truck will now stop when i hit the breaks without turning my hair white.

 

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Hemi Dart, do they make hightr ratings or is this it?
TIA Eric

 

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k. vickers,the block heater cord enters the block at the lower engine block passenger side,the cord is wrapped up and stored on the pass. fender wall.

 

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The Patriot,

Good question.

I have the Zerostart catalog from 96. When I needed to change the OE block heater element, I would have liked to find a higher wattage heater. I have always felt the 600 watt OE one was marginal.

At some point Dodge changed to a 750 Watt heater. This is the one most of us have now.

I saw in the Zerostart Catalog the C Series Cummins engine (8. 3L, 505 C. I. D) heating element comes in a 1000 watt, 120 Volt model.

Checking out the specs, it has the same diameter (58mm) and uses the same 0-Ring & clamp Device kit as the B-Series engine.

They almost look identical, except the heating element is a slightly different shape. It would mount in the frost plug the OE one is in.

Would this work in the B-Series engine? I don't know. I wish I had tried it. The tech person at Zerostart said "thats a lotta heat" but offered no answer.

The Cummins C-Series Engine, 1000 watt, 120 Volt frost plug block heater is Zerostart p/n 860-1860.

If anyone wants to experiment with it , I'd be interested in the results. Get more info and see it at the Zerostart webpage. Will need Abobe reading to view catalog.
http://www.zerostart.com/


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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-04-2001). ]

 

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thanks, guys, for quick answers without comments about dumb questions. i knew this was a friendly place!

 

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Got a price for that 1000 watt heater? I would give it a whirl. I could use a little more heat in my arctic wonderland for the right (cheap) price.

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J Case
'95 2500 4x4 Auto Reg Cab
Big Dick's 2inch lift
BD tc, vb, Pressure lock, and 4" exhaust.
K&N RE-0880 with 25-0880 prefilter
Custom Fuel Pump by Piers!!

BOHICA!!!!

 

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I replaced my heater cord when I had the exhaust manifold off. Real easy to get at that way. I am thinking with the oil filter off it may be easier to see as well. Have to remember to look next oil change.

 

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Sixkill,

As a ballpark guess $80 for the Heater & cordset.

Things to consider;

Will the C-Series heating element fit into the water jacket with no inference? My guess is it looks like it will. (compare pictues of both @ Zerostart)

Could it cause a hot spot in the cylinder its mounted closest to?. My guess is this would be more of a problem with an engine with replaceable cylinder liners.

Could the heater produce too much heat? I doubt it. It's only 250 watts more than the OE Dodge one.

Would the C-Series block heater work in a B-Series engine? I dunno #ad

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-05-2001). ]

 

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Bill and sixkill,when I bought a freeze plug type block heater(maybe even Zerostat?) for a tractor several years ago the tractor shop had three sizes available-500,750&1000 watts. The parts man said the heater size was more dependent on the cooling system size than by how cold it may get. He said the general rule was 4cyl=500w,6=750,8=1000. The higher wattage elements were actually smaller. I think a higher watt block heater will fit and work no problem,it's just a matter if it's really necessary.

Sixkill if you really want to heat that engine up try a canister type block heater. You would have to remove the stock block heater and install a barbed fitting to run hose to the canister and another hose would need to tee into the inlet heater hose. I have one of this type on a 4cyl. JD tractor that's 1200 watts,it will bring the coolant temp from 0° to 180° in less than a hour. It actually circulates the coolant by convection. The one I have came from a company called Tisco and cost $58, came with all the hose,clamps,several different barbed fittings and tees. tiscoparts.com will find you the nearest dealer,they won't sell direct but have all kinds of block heaters availible.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 01-05-2001). ]

 

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I'm all up on the canister type heaters otherwise known as circulating tank heater. I would not recommend them unless you could not fit a freeze plug heater. They are inefficient (sorry about my spelling #ad
) You don't have to worry about "burning" or overheat anything with a larger wattage heater, your cooling system has enough capacity to handle it. IMO if your engine is at operating temps in an hour you are using too much. It won't hurt anything unless it starts to overheat. Your cooling system will operate with a heater plugged in and you engine not running. Heated coolant will flow around the block. Once the coolant is warm enough the thermostat will open and coolant will circulate through the radiator as well. You reach your limitations quickly after that because there is no airflow over the radiator. Choosing the correct heater for your application depends on what you want to do, and the capacity of your cooling system. Our trucks are way overcooled and can handle a much higher wattage heater with no problem, but there is no need for heating your engine and radiator all the way up to operating temps unless that is your intent. The heater that comes stock is sufficient for warming your engine to aid starting and to prevent premature wear. In the enviroment I'm in the temps go as low as -60f or more. It takes more heat and/or longer warm up times to get the engine up to temps. I would like a heater that heats my engine to a warmer temp faster, but I do not NEED it. If I leave it plugged in for two to four hours before operation even in the coldest temps now it is enough to help start it but not enough to even see the temp gauge move. My engine would thank me for a higher wattage heater in the coldest of the cold. Ideally I'd like to see it a 140 prior to starting. My electric company would like that too. I have friends that need higher wattage heaters that keep the engine at operating temps all the time. They are of the tank heater variety and some with built in thermostats. Their application calls for the need to keep the engine ready to go now. (Forklifts, Bulldozers, Emergency equipment and the like) One of my friends has a snow removal business that requires him to be able to plug his equipment in and in an hour everthing is up to operating temps and ready to plow. (just like your tractor illflem) But he cannot leave them plugged in for long periods. Not only would it cost him an arm and a leg, but there is the chance with tank heaters of that size to burn hoses and the like. It happens all the time. Insurance companies (most of them) will not pay for losses due to winterization modifications. If your vehicle catches fire, it's your loss completely #ad
It happens to a few here every year. My (free) advice is to not go overboard with any heater unless you need to. #ad


I think the 1000 watt would do me some good! Thanks for the tip, I did not know other block heaters exsisted for my engine. This site ROCKS!!!

Sorry for being so long-winded.

[This message has been edited by sixkill (edited 01-06-2001). ]