Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Block Heater

[DEickhoff]

Well I don't think my block heater is working any more. No hissing, no heat at startup and in 35 degree weather it takes upto 10 seconds for the "Wait to Start" light to go off. Checked the end of the cord (that plugs into the block heater itself) and found nothing. Removed my cord, took it to Napa for a replacement. They don't stock it. :{ Told me to come back on Monday and they would try to order it but it would be $100 plus. This is nuts. $100 bucks for a heater cord. I bet I could buy a new block heater for that cost or at least close to that cost. Any one have anywhere cheaper to purchase a block heater cord?



Thanks in advance!!



Dawna

 

[rKortan]

I replaced mine a few years ago. I don't remember it being that expensive. I got it from Carson Dodge and think it was in the 50. 00 range... ... ... ... . BJ

 

[jal]

I just picked up a cord for my truck at a local auto parts store. It was $14, made by zerostart part # 360-0008. Also check an Implement dealer, as a lot of tractors use the same cord.

 

[nfox]

Block heater cord

I just bought a new cord from chrysler and it cost $23. 00.

 

[DEickhoff]

l wanted to say thanks for all the replys. I was thinking $100 was way too much to pay for just a cord. Maybe $100 for the entire unit from the element to the cord. I think I'll just call the local dodge dealer in town and see how much they want for a cord. Then call Cummins Northwest in Anchorage and talk to them. I am hoping my problem is just the cord and not the element. My husband wants me to purchase the entire thing, element and all so I think I'll do just that.



thanks again



dawna

 

[ak_fleming]

$100 for a cord. What a markup!!!!

Just checked partsamerica.com and they only want $50 for a Kat's frost plug heater, and the cord is included with the heater.

 

[QRTRHRS]

It's easy enough to check both the cord and the heating element with an ohmmeter. You can pick one up for ten bucks.



I would want to know if the element is bad before I dump my antifreeze out changing it.

 

[tp0d]

Yea, I agree with QRTRHRS, the heater is not usually known to fail. I`ve never changed one, but I`m sure it would be a PIA, not to mention all the air trapped in the block. Get an ohm-meter and check the terminals on the heater, you should have less than 20 ohms. If so, its good. . just a new cord. . I`m in line for a new plug soon, cord is still stock.



good luck



-j

 

[DEickhoff]

Just got off the phone with Cummins Northwest. Block heater (with cord) and a Serpertine belt will run me about $90 (includes shipping). Napa can keep their cord and belt.



The part number for the block heater is 3313272 cost: $50. 68 (Napa cost ??)

The part number for the cord is 251919 cost: $12. 62 (Napa cost $100)

The serpertine belt cost: $28. 36 (Napa cost $50)



Lesson: check your prices and companines before you order any product. Glad I talked to Cummins Northwest.



I checked the ohms at the end of the cord where it plugs into the heater and got no reading no matter what I ddi. I then took a reading at the element and got no reading also. But I may not have done the test correctly. I put one test lead on one element lead and the other on the second element lead (got no reading). Did the test again this time one test lead on the element lead and the other on the side of the element itself and got a reading. So I am going to replace the cord first and if that does not work then replace the element. I suck on electical theory. Something I am trying to learn.



Thanks for all of your input and advice. This site and its members rock!!



Dawna

 

[J Shocik]

Before replacing the whole cord, why not try replacing just the plug on the cord end? I did this 2 yrs. ago after having the same problems. It cost me $5. 00 at Home Depot and haven't had a problem with it since.

 

[MickeysCummins]

i just bought a cord from ecks garage, a truck shop, its a GE heater cord they charged me $9. 99

 

[tp0d]

Dawna:



Sounds like the element may have failed. Unless the contacts are too dirty to get a good reading, which I guess is possible, you should have a reading across both element terminals. Getting a reading from one terminal to ground tells me the element casing has failed and the inner nichrome wire has seperated, and grounded to the coolant. As for changing it, you can do a quick swap by loosening the element, then quickly removing the one and slappin the other one in there. I do a lot of work on electric water heaters, and use this method, but I usually draw a vacuum on the system first at the bottom drain valve. Doesnt seem too possible on an engine tho. . hmm. . As for purging the block of air, all I can say would be to park the truck uphill on as steep of a hill as you can get it on, and let it run. . There may be other methods, I dunno. . I`d try testing the new element before installation, and comparing those results against your current element, as I said, these type of elements dont fail often, and are a PIA to replace. .



good luck



-jerry

 

[MHalloran]

I agree with J Shocik's repair. Grab the plug and cut it off (with a couple of inches of the wire with it) . Then install a new plug. I had the same problem a few years ago and its been fine since. It's worth a try Dawna!

 

[DEickhoff]

I will try that but have gotten an element and heater from Cummins just in case. I've been lucky so far as temps have been in the upper 30's to low 40's overnight.



Dawna

 

[Will24]

Kinda bringin this one back from the dead, but it's a Phillips block heater, pretty standard on almost all class 7/8 trucks, so any truck shop should have 'em



-Will

 

[RChamberlain]

yeah go to the dealer they are only like 40 bucks

 

[BTighe]

this popped up at the perfect time. just found that mines not working either.

 

[DEickhoff]

Try just replacing to cord. It was bad on mine though it looked good no breaks or rub marks. Now at 30 degress outside the wait to start light stays for 4 seconds and I have hot air in 5 minutes.



Good lick.



dawna