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Competition Blown freeze plug

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The best way in to use the VERSACHEM type II nonHarding pliable automotive adhesive on the plugs , we have this problem in NASCAR blocks , and this is caused primarily by High water pressure in the block, I have seen 80 psi on the dyno at 9500 rpm’s . you should also check to see if you can’t detect any combustion gasses in the coolant. The new Toyota NASCAR engine has plugs that are retained with c clips , but I would on a street motor , maybe look in to opening up the coolant transfer passage in the back of the head , to flow more water , I will look in to it, I don’t have that problem I run a electric water pump, when I run water. This pressure kit that Gene is talking about sounds like the pullers have this problem figured out.
 
COMP461 said:
This pressure kit that Gene is talking about sounds like the pullers have this problem figured out.



:--) Did I just witness something positive about another member come out of your fingers... who are you and what have you done with Greg?? :--)
 
Sorta glad this topic came up when it did... Sorry Jim though it happed to you!



Is this a fairly common problem? Reason I said I was glad it came up now is my engine is just being sent down to Haisley's to get built up and its time to kick this problem in the seat of the pants before it happens! What does everyone think is the best, cheapest fix. I like Jims idea of tigging them and I have my tig ready to go when it comes back. Any reasons, not to do the tig thing???



Thanks... Ryan
 
If you'll follow the link posted by BigPapa up at the top of the thread over to where I posted a while back with this same problem, there's a fella there named Waylan that has specs for fabbing up a plate to bolt in back there over the plug. $30 fix and keeps the tig heat off the block. That might be of interest to you.



I also posted Cummins Part Numbers there for the fix that I performed to get my plug back in.
 
does anyone have any pictures of a water pump that has been clipped? Sounds like a pretty easy mod if you know where and how much to clip.
 
Any new info on clipping vanes in the water pump? I've been thinking of replacing my water pump as preventative maintenance at 150k and it would be nice to have the new one trimmed before it goes in.



I would also like to know is if anyone has gotten any pressure measurements with a modified water pump?



Waylan
 
I haven't looked at it yet. I just got the new plug and transmission back in last night.



The final fix was a new plug installed with loctite (red) JB weld around the outside and a plate sealed and bolted over all of that!



Jim
 
Jim,



Hope your plate doesn't extend much further than 1. 5" below the centerline of the freeze plug... ... . could have an interference bolting the bellhousing back up. I had to do all mine by feel and approximations since I didn't drop the transmission... ..... and at 3" wide there was just a little clearance between the bottom of the plate and the top of the bellhousing.



Anyway, let us know what you find out about the water pump. I don't want to take mine over 3000 rpm until I do something to lower the coolant pressure. I emailed EEP and asked about their overpressure relief and they haven't responded.



Waylan
 
Talked to EEP on the phone... ... . they said they sell a regulator kit... ... . it bolts into the back of the block and prevents coolant pressure from exceeding 45psi. The bad part is that the kit costs $225.
 
On clipping the veins.



Basically you just scut off two of the veins.



If you are looking at the backside of the pump, then cut off two opposing veins (ex. 12 o'clock position and 6 o'clock position).



Just use a very small cut-off wheel (Dremel works too).



After cutting off the veins then smooth the rough edges (debur) so nothing comes loose in the cooling system.



Later,

Wes
 
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Looks GREAT Jim!



Waylan, I think we could probably fab something up that was a lot less than that. I would assume that it is simply a pressure releif valve. Like a water heater.



To get the thought process rolling... Take the plate that I installed, it has two 1/2" NPT fittings on the back of it. I can remove one of those, and installa pop off valve, and then have a line going to the coolant overflow tank or something. Something like that would be less than $100 including the plate.
 
Good thinking Andy... ... ... . but does the pop-off valve stay open once thrown? Or does it reset? Definitely something to check into. I would much rather do something like that than to reduce the efficiency of the water pump.



Waylan
 
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