Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Blown Rear Axle Seal(s) ?

[Slightly Modified]

Mine went out about three thousand miles ago, at 75,000. Actually one went out but I had the shop go ahead and replace both. All is fine now.

 

[78repowerwagon]

I finishing up the seal on a 2000 now. Anyboby got the torque specs on a 3500? Do they use synthetic from the factory?

 

[Pit Bull]

I wish you guys would not of started this thread Took mine in today to rotate tires and my front pads were wornout after only 18K miles. The reason was that my drivers side rear seal was blown and my back brakes weren't doing much good. I have the extended warranty but that does not help much since it does not pay for replacing the rear brake shoes (that come is a set). It just pays for replacing the seal on the drivers side. I'm coning ahead and paying for the seal on the passenger side to be replaced, because I did not want it going out and then I would have to pay for another set of rear brakes. Best I can figure is that the warranty saved me the cost of one seal and the installation of one seal, minus $50. 00. Might have saved me $150. 00? I'm beginning to think that the only way the Dodge extended warranty is worth the cost is if you transmission blows up. I have 49K on my 2000 3500 4x4. At least now I will have new seals and new rear brakes. Hope they last more then 50K miles. By the way what makes these seals go out so quick?

 

[K_Arts]

I know I am going out on a limb by asking this... but does anyone have any idea on what we can do to replace the oem seal with sometype of more permanent seal?



This whole ordeal almost sounds like the limp (lift) pump situation.



Kev

 

[PCrable]

Seals and Rear Pads Changed

I just thought I would update everyone after I changed the seals and rear pads.



I changed mine out on saturday. The job took a while, but that was probably because I was going real slow and being careful. I also wanted to make sure everything was cleaned and re-lubed real well.



The first thing to let you know about is on the seal replacement. It's really pretty easy. I picked up the Dana 2 9/16 axle nut socket at NAPA. There are 3 different sockets for this axle ! Unfortunately, I started with the 8 sided socket and it wasn't the right one.



You need the 2 9/16 Rounded Hex Head socket. From NAPA, it's part number 2436. This is a 3/4" drive socket... so if you have a 1/2" drive torque wrench, you'll need a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter too. The socket costs about $30.



The oil seal from NAPA was part # 28754. They were about $11 each. I found that an old wood chisel could be used to help seperate the old sea from the hub. Go around the whole thing tapping the chisel between the hub and the seal to help break it loose. Then get a big screwdriver and put it under the seal on one side and over the seal on the other and you can pop it out like a bottle cap comes off.



When putting the new seal back on, I made sure everything was cleaned up real well and then pre-lubed the hub with a little axle grease. I also ran a small line of high temp silicone around the new seal just to be sure. I then used a piece of 2x4 to drive the new seal in and then a smaller block of oak to make sure the rim of the seal was firmly seated all the way around.



I re-assembled the hub and then went on to the brakes. I then went on to the brake pads. Part # AE-451R from NAPA. They were about $82 and you get $28 back when you return the old pads to them. They do carry a lifetime warranty. I would also recommend the brake pliers (part # 298... $23) as they really help in taking the springs off and getting them back on again. The brake pads took a while since I took everything apart and cleaned each piece individually as well as the axles themselves. Putting the pads back on sometimes takes 3 hands, but it can be done... just be patient.



If anyone in the Colorado Springs area needs some tools, I'll be happy to loan you mine



--Phil

 

[Pit Bull]

After reading all of your posts I had the dealer replace my drivers side rear seal under the $50. 00 deductable extended warranty. I then took it to a local shop to have the brake shoes done. When we took the drum off the brakes were covered with rear lube. The local shop cleaned them up and checked the brakes and said that they will work fine. No need to put on new brake pads. They used 3 cans of brake cleaner on my drivers side rear brakes to clean them. They said the STEALER!!! did a half ass job and should of cleaned every thing up after installing the new rear seal. The local shop did not charge me any $$$ to do all of this work (they will get my future business) I called the Stealer and raised hell!! Told them that in about 5K miles when it came time to rotate my tires that if any axle fluid was on my rear brakes that they would be replacing the seal again for free (since I had doubts about their work) They said they were sorry and would do whatever I wanted to make me happy. I think they are just scared thea I might write a nasty letter to DC and hurt their 5 screw rating. The dealer also told me that they added fluid to the differential. When I checked it, I had to add almost 2 pts. to bring it up to where it should be (mine is a 3500 4x4 with LSD so it should hold a little over 10 pts when full). I use to like this Stealer now I just think they are a 5 screw stealer

 

[Cooker]

Pit Bull,

I am not trying to discredit your local shop, but once the shoes are saturated in gear oil they will never be the same. (I tried the clean 'em up real good method to start too ). The only scenario where I can see cleaning them will work is if the leak was not too severe and/or it didn't leak too long, therefore not saturating the pads in gear oil.



Maybe you will get lucky, but for many members of the TDR (myself included) the clean them real good method didn't work.



Again, I'm not trying to step on anybody's toes, but just be prepared if your rear brakes are not up to par in a few months.



-Ryan

 

[K_Arts]

Well, I had to take my truck to the dealer last night to have my rear seals replaced.



The dealer said that my passenger rear seal was leaking so bad that it actually contaminated my brakes. So they replaced the brakes under warranty...



Has anyone else heard of this happening? I understand the brakes getting coated in oil... but can't they be cleaned?



Kev

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by K_Arts

Well, I had to take my truck to the dealer last night to have my rear seals replaced.



The dealer said that my passenger rear seal was leaking so bad that it actually contaminated my brakes. So they replaced the brakes under warranty...



Has anyone else heard of this happening? I understand the brakes getting coated in oil... but can't they be cleaned?



Kev

Now many miles on the truck? The dealer treated you right. Rear brakes can be cleaned, depends on the amount of fluid and how soaked they are. The mechanic that looked at mine scraped mine with a knife and showed that they were not soaked. Then cleaned them up with brake cleaner.

 

[Cooker]

Kev,



Reread my post above yours.



Ryan

 

[K_Arts]

Pit Bull - the truck just hit 31. 8k miles... Actually believe it or not the dealer actually treated me pretty cool. I was very surprised (being that the service manager and I have had it out a couple of times)



Cooker - Sorry, I never even read your post above mine... . It makes total sense, I've just never heard it put the way that the dealer put it to me... . my brakes were contaminated... . LOL Sounds pretty nasty.



Kev