Archived blown rear diff

[RabidRam]

It's a shame that my very first post has to be in this forum. Luckily, my TDR membership kicked in a few days before my rear diff went ka-blewby. Oh well, I guess that's what I get for doing burn-outs in a bone stock truck.



So the moral of the story is that I'm looking for some advice. I'm pretty sure I've got to replace the whole rear end. Very rarely do I do any towing or pulling with the truck. I am wondering what you guys think is my best bet for replacement. Since I haven't BOMBed this truck (YET!), is a stock rear diff good enough for me? Or, for the money, is there a better option out there?



I hope this is enough info for you guys. I'm a newbie... so if it isn't, let me know and I'll post more info.



TIA,



Dave

 

[willyslover]

I think you have a Dana 80 now . . however if you don't suggest you pick up one. . especially if your going to race it or sled pull with it... . also limited slip diff.



look for a wrecked rig



do you have a 4x4 ? [when posting ya can't see the signature]

also need a 241DHD [ v/s a 241DLD] transfer case if you do the above.

 

[esdd]

Have you checked for broken axles? Just pull the axle bolts and the axles slip out. Broke one of mine, didn't realize it was broke untill i broke the other. My diff is lsd but a standard diff will not go if one axle is broke. I would suspect a broken axle before a diff failure. If you are going to buy a salvage rear end I would buy a later model with the disc brakes it appears to be a direct swap.

 

[Extreme1]

For what it's worth, your Dana 80 is tuff enough for our trucks unless you try to break it. The transmissions/clutches are more likely to fail. Like mentioned, it's most likely a broken axle, especially if you were shocking the drivetrain to get rubber. With more power you will be able to do big big burnouts without shocking things so badly. (How's that for a reason to BOMB from a confessed torque junkie?)



Jack one side of the truck up and try turning the wheel with the truck in gear, if it doesn't turn, try the other side. That might tell you which one is broken depending on the failed surface (if it's real jagged, you won't be able to turn it, if it's smooth, you will).



The next most likely thing to break would be the pinion shaft but that is rare.



Rip into it and post your findings.

 

[RabidRam]

Thanks for the input. Here is what happened:



Three teeth of the spider gear sheared off and found their way to freedom... two of which stayed together and one that went his own way. The solo tooth got jammed between the rear diff cover and the ABS toner ring. The other two teeth rolled around freely, smacking into whatever they could find.



Or at least that is what the tech told me. Unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined enough to rebuild the rear of my truck. A handful of bearings, some posi clutches, a new set of spider gears, and a speedo sensor... all makes for a great recipe for grabbing your ankles. Oh well, live and learn. At least the rear of my truck should last another 100K miles with no problems. (I hope). Too bad the money I just spent to rebuild the rear could have gotten me a set of injectors and a comp box. :{



Thanks again for the posts.



Dave