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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Body Lift Kit for 2nd Gen

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This is a letter I was intending to PM Rob Thomas but found he isn't set up to receive them - I am studiing up on this before I leap -



I'm thinking about a body lift on my '01 Sport - I have a few questions if you have the time to answer-



Are you still happy with lift?

What problems has it caused?

Did you use a Performance Accessories kit?

If yes, Were the components high quality enough?

Performance Accessories now has a diesel kit with intercooler and steering linkage provisions - I assume you dealt with these custom?

Radiator and intercooler are my main concerns - do they contact body or does the radiator need to be lowered?

Any lines that had to be lengthened?

Anything in engine compartment get tight?

I'm running BFG A/T's in 295/85-16's (33" tall on stock rims)with 2" daystars spacers - what size tire were you running in first photos of lift on TDR? I can get a good idea from that photo what my tires will look like -

Did you make special brackets for the Sport bumpers?

Front? -

Rear?-



Anybody know of things to watch out for - pros and cons -



I know this is alot - I appreciate any help you can give - Eric Lee
 
I put a two inch body lift on my truck a few years ago. The kit I used was not supposed to be used on a diesel. The only modifications I had to make was for the intercooler on the engine side. I removed approximately 2 inches from the over all length and it worked perfectly.
 
something to consider:



i was once into the rockcrawling circuit.

on every vehicle i saw that was involved in a serious rollover (that had a body lift) the frame and body seperated during the event.



i personally will not even ride in a vehicle with a body lift.



you will be adding additional stress to bolts and mounts that are hardly up to the task prior to the modification.
 
I call body lifts the "Giving the Dodge Ram the Duramax look". I have seen a few done myself and do not like the look as it shows way to much frame for me. You will also have to modify the fan shroud for the body lift to work also. Since Rob is not allowed to post for other reasons right now and you desire info on body lifts drop a PM to B KIRK(Brad Kirk) as he has done one on his sweet looking 94 truck. Thas the only Ram I have ever seen with a body lift that I like... ..... Andy
 
I think what I'd like to find is someone selling a kit with 2" aluminum spacers and high quality fasteners. I've heard of the aluminum block kits out there but my Google search was fruitless -



The applicable kits by Performance Accessories are 3" as far as I can tell - and use plastic spacers.



Eric
 
If that's all you want, just get some aluminum round stock and have it cut in two inch increments and a hole drilled in it. Then you can order whatever strength bolt you want (Grade 5 or even 8) two inches longer than stock and your all set. I have had the body lift on my truck for over 300,00 miles and I still love everything about it. The only thing that could use some more work is my rear bumber mount. Of course, after 500,000 miles, the entire right half of the bumper is coated a powder black anyway... ... ... .
 
BWilson - How many inch spacer did you go? What else is lengthened that I'll have to address?



I own a fabrication shop so I can muscle through the bumper brackets and I think you're right about the aluminum spacers - Maybe use a rubber body gasket on both sides? -



- Eric
 
Hey Eric. If you have a fab shop, make your own body lift. I lifted my truck in 94 when I bought it. Just go 2". My cab spacers were made of 2" X 4", 1/4" wall steel, cut 4" long. I used a 1 1/4" hole saw in center, and welded a piece of 1/2" wall tube for the bolt hole so it wouldn't collapse. The bed was 2" square, 1/4" wall. Bolts are all metric. I have a supply shop where I live, and used grade 9 bolts. After the install, and everything in line, I stitch welded the cab mounts I made to the body. Made my own coil spacer, (2"), on a lathe. Got to remember, in 94, nobody made anything for the Dodges. When you remove the front bumper, you will see different ways to raise your bumper brackets, or fab new ones. Will also have to raise the side to frame braces. The rear is easy. Just drill new holes in the frame for the brackets. I welded the old holes up while bumper was off. With that set-up, I was able to run 37" X 12. 50 on a 8 1/4" wide wheel. Take a look a my pics to see how it ended up.



Problems you will encounter. You will have to cut the fan shroud. You can't lower the rad as it sits inside the front support area. The intercooler tube on drivers side needs shortened. The passenger side, you can just rotate the boot. Shifter linkage on mine was long enough to just loosen and readjust. 4WD lever, no problems. Fuel tank filler hose needs extended. Some of your aftermarket guage connections, especially fuel, may have to be extended.



Would I do it again? Yes. Been on there for 11 years, no problems.



Have since then, raised the truck 2 1/2 more inches, and 17" X 9" wheels, with 37" X 13. 50 tires that have a lot wider tread. No pics of that yet.



Brad
 
Brad - Really like to see some pics -----

I think you have a valid point on trapping that puck with a weld - that would isolate shear stress on the bolt to one plane, and make the whole set up more stable.



I don't like the idea of welding on the cab but I can't think of any other way to stabilize the spacer set up. Most of the stuff I put together is heavy so this thin stuff always gives me trouble.



The body on these new trucks are galvanized also if I am remembering right -



Eric
 
Gonna Jump

I ordered a 3" Performance Accessories kit from Rocky Mnt. Susp. and am going to cut it down to 2" (they are suppose to be the best but only offer a 3" for the auto). I didn't feel confy figuring it out myself and whatever it takes to lift everything that needs it. I probably shot some dough here but I don't want to turn this into a torn apart truck and no where to go.



I guess I bought it for the instructions and Sport Bumper brackets. I will be replacing all the hardware anyway with shorter Grade 8s and probably will have to modify their bumper brackets.



B/W Gooseneck will have to be raised 2" -

Fass attaches to the frame so that will be 2" more visable -

My tow hooks will be out in the open now -

More topside room in the engine compartment -



I've wanted to do this for awhile now and I can always un-install it later if I don't like it.



- Eric
 
I ended up buying a Performance Accessories Kit 60063 3" lift for a 2001 Auto Sport. Not a diesel kit but that's the concensus here on TDR - is to not worry about it for now. Everything is pretty nice, pucks are solid and metal parts heavy and anodized- The install manual is all text but looks to understandable. The steering shaft extension is nicely machined and the front bumper mounts are well built (which I'll probably be unbuilding to shorten).



I am only lifting it 2" so I spun the pucks down to 2" tonight and will address other parts as I install. I'm comfortable with the quality enough to go ahead and install - I'll post a pic of the results. I have the 2" leveling donuts and bilsteins with 295 /75 - 16 BFG's (about 33") and with this 2" I think I'll find my 'just right' with factory ride.



-Eric
 
I don't see how this mod can be done in a couple hours. I know I'm finicky but it took me the better part of 2 days to do this right enough for me. Now that it's done I'm pretty sure I'd do it again. There wasn't anything about the kit that looked 'cobbled'.



A couple of things I know about this lift now -



2" is plenty - more than that and there will be taught lines and interference between coolant/washer bottles and intercooler lines.



If you are going to do this the way I did and buy the 3" kit and cut it down to 2", be warned that I spent a good amount of time altering brackets.



Rear bumper can be raised by drilling new holes - no special brackets necessary.



Intercooler pipe should be sectioned to shorten - leaving 2 rings on each end to nestle the clamp between. 2" lift only requires about 3/4 to 1" shorter. I cut both ends off and didn't like the way the clamps had to fit and welded both ends back on.



I think the reason PA offers this kit in 3" is partly because the auto shift linkage bracket that attaches to body under driver door. I had to do some tricky fabrication to cut and overlap supplied plate to accomplish 2" instead of 3. Nothing genious but hard for PA to do production I guess.



The only part of truck that is kinda abused is the fan shroud. One of 4 mounting tabs needs to be cut off and the bottom edge needs to be supported after it's lifted from it's tabs and lowered. The bottles that hang from it are also lowered which is no big deal but the coolant bottle does contact lower intercooler pipe - passenger side.



The supplied front bumper brackets needed notching as well as shortening to avoid hard contact with the trans cooler.



I have a B/W Gooseneck which stays put when lifting the body - I believe a B/W Hi -Rise ball and a trap door in bed and I'm set there with no further fabrication or need to raise hitch. The higher ball does have a 20,000 rating as opposed to the 30,000 of the shorter ball.





Well since I parked the truck yesterday morning till tonight - I've had two meals and I'm wooped. I'll post some pics soon



-Eric
 
If I could figure out how to upload a photo - I would show you guys how this looks - Shoot I keep getting a file 10 times bigger than acceptable.



:( :( :( :( :( :( :(



Eric
 
Pic of truck with 2" body Lift

I went through posts and found one that said to drag photo into Paint and it worked the first time.



-Eric



I added a 'before' pic here -
 
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Looks good.

To bad you couldn't find a good 2" kit to bolt right up.

A lot of extra work to make a 3" kit into a 2".

Now that your done, and know what all is involved, would you still have done it?



Brad
 
Brad - It was alot of work and - Yes I am definately glad I went with just 2". I really don't want to go any taller on my tires at 33". The trucks geared for the highway and I would hate to have it more so. I'm at about 75 mph at 2000 rpm with these 295/75's. It's a leg up to get in - 2" doesn't look like much but it is a bit.



I rebuilt the B/W hitch frame 2" taller and reinstalled it. The hitch assembly supports the bed where the PA kit included 'no bolt spacers' to be tack welded to box. I will not be using those spacers.



It was a chore - I guess I'd do it again. I honestly don't feel like I 'buggered' the truck - so as far as whether I think it's a high quality mod - Yes. The radiator shroud got hacked a little and I would like to have removed it and done the alterations with a little more finese. (plastic welded - or whatever)



- Eric
 
Pics of Brackets in lift kit

I found out how to get pics on here so I figured I use my new skills. I found that saving images through File/Save Optimized As: works everytime instead of just File/Save As:. This is in Image Ready/Photoshop.



Anywho - One pic is of the trans linkage bracket as modified. The pic of the manual shows original part and shows how it's easy to shift it down 3" but tricky to go just 2" as modified.



Sport bumper brackets before shortening



Special brackets I fabbed to fit Bosch fogs since I had bumper off. I bought these through Dan Stern Lighting awhile ago - still haven't finished wiring but they are supposed to be the shat. Although as you can see are not bolt in.



-Eric
 
B/W pics

B/W Turnoverball Hitch as modified (raised 2") to use standard 30,000# ball, - fit like a glove.



-I am really loving the extra room in the engine compartment! So far no complaints about anything related to lift.



- Eric
 
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