Boice-Crane/Wilton Drill Press Re-build

[Deleted member 995608]

So I find a Boice Crane drill press on CL for $75. Has a 3/4 HP Baldor off the back end and runs well. The ugly part is that is has Jacobs 37KD chuck is welded to the lower end of the spindle. Hmmmmm.



So I take it all apart and start the de-greasing. I get the head off and remove it's guts.



I don't know a lot about drill presses. I have to admit the the welded on chuck caught my attention but I didn't think that it would turn into a hassle for me.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Once I got the machine completely disasembled, I find a broken spindle and a really crappy repair.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I run to the computer and start searching for parts, . . . Nothing.



Then I discover that Wilton Tool bought Boice-Crane and then phased out the Boice design later on. This also seems to be the time when Wilton Tool felt that China could make better parts, . . . much like the rest of America's MFG's.



I got the spindle completely broke down and it's obvious that it's had a problem or 2, or 3.



I cut the threaded collar off of the chuck, pulled the lower quill bearing and now I have some really usless parts to admire.



Gonna run down the hill tomorrow and see if a machine shop can spin me a new spindle. If not, Ill have to scrounge the net some more untill I can find a suitable used component.



It's stamped Made in the USA all over this thing and I love it. My $75 CL find may cost me both arms and legs to get er' running but I'm gonna shell out the cash anyway!

 

[rbattelle]

Wow, great stuff! I love a good restoration project.

If I understand the photos correctly, it looks like the chuck threads onto the spindle? If so, and you decide to have a new spindle made, I'd urge you to consider having it made with a Morse taper instead of threaded.

-Ryan

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Wow, great stuff! I love a good restoration project.



If I understand the photos correctly, it looks like the chuck threads onto the spindle? If you, and you decide to have a new spindle made, I'd urge you to consider having it made with a Morse taper instead of threaded.



-Ryan

The "chuck" actually attaches via a Morse taper. That's the part of the spindle that broke off.



The threaded part you see is for a threaded collar that locks down, aka the collar that was welded to the chuck.



The Morse taper broke off, so he used the collar that locks the chuck even more as a mounting device. Simple backyard fixin'.

 

[guldam]

A while back I got a free Vega enterprises 126 scroll saw off of Freecycle. Sucker was industrial in weight and size, and had missing parts and broken bits, and welded up broken bits. I pushed that thing around for a year. Finally decided it wasn't going to get fixed in my shop, so I gave it away. Those old tools are built like tanks, but sometimes you just have to let go...



GulDam

 

[Deleted member 995608]

A while back I got a free Vega enterprises 126 scroll saw off of Freecycle. Sucker was industrial in weight and size, and had missing parts and broken bits, and welded up broken bits. I pushed that thing around for a year. Finally decided it wasn't going to get fixed in my shop, so I gave it away. Those old tools are built like tanks, but sometimes you just have to let go...



GulDam

Well, one man's trash is another man's gold.



I believe in America and what we used to make. I look forward to this challenge at all cost.



I was raised not to throw it away and I'm teaching my children the same.



I feel sorry for the Americans who live in the "Now" attitude!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Yesterday, I broke the Baldor electric motor apart to inspect the windings, armature etc and found a few Mud Dobber and Wasp nest inside.



Hard to believe that this motor even turned, let alone work.



I'm not educated enough, so I think I'll take this to the pro's for a good cleaning and bearing replacement.



I ordered a 1" X 33JT Cushman straight shank arbor adaptor yesterday. This will be machined down into the replacement spindle that holds the chuck.

 

[rbattelle]

The Morse taper broke off, so he used the collar that locks the chuck even more as a mounting device. Simple backyard fixin'.

"This is temporary unless it works. "



-Ryan

 

[GHarman]

What a find!

Nice JOB JHawes! When you get 'er fixed, it will last another lifetime! GregH

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I got my new spindle back today and they also replaced the bearings in the quill assembly.



He re-asembled everything before hand so I didn't get to actually see the new spindle It's really easy to press out the spindle but I'm gonna leave it like it is.



After some thought, I decided to leave out the tightning collar feature so he ground the shank to accept a standard 33JT Jacobs taperd chuck.



Tomorrow morning, I'm headed to the blast cabinet to clear off some 50 year old paint. Going to refinish in this color (Verde Green) RustOleum.com.

 

[Nyoest]

Good on ya reviving the old girl. But by the time your done spending money you could have bought three or four harbor freight drill presses and paid for the dumpster to haul em off!

Sorry I had too it reminds me of a friend with a ridiculous amount of money in a farmall H.

There is nothing like the old iron!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Good on ya reviving the old girl. But by the time your done spending money you could have bought three or four harbor freight drill presses and paid for the dumpster to haul em off!



Sorry I had too it reminds me of a friend with a ridiculous amount of money in a farmall H.



There is nothing like the old iron!

We used to build this stuff and it was built to last. Wan't cheap and you could get replacement parts.



I'm praying that more people get the same idea and support American made products. We have the ability to build the best products on this planet!!!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I got up this morning with the intentions of blasting the parts in the cabinet but for whatever reason, I pulled out the can of Aircraft stripper.



Five hours later this is what I end up with.



Who knew there could be so much RUST under the paint!!!!



Probably needs a good blasting before paint. The base and colum needs some serious hand work. Ugghhhh!

 

[Nyoest]

I admire your commitment to doing this properly. The first time you drill hole it will all be worth it.

 

[BGlidewell]

thanks for the thread!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I pulled out the angle grinder this evening and went to town using a wire wheel, 3M paint stripper wheel and red buffing disc.



I'm really pleased with the outcome on the small area I finished. It needs more buffing but I'll have to wait for some media blasting on the base before I try to make it shine.



No way that I can cut through the rust on the bottom without some outside help.

 

[chipster]

I pulled out the angle grinder this evening and went to town using a wire wheel, 3M paint stripper wheel and red buffing disc.



I'm really pleased with the outcome on the small area I finished. It needs more buffing but I'll have to wait for some media blasting on the base before I try to make it shine.



No way that I can cut through the rust on the bottom without some outside help.

Beat feet on down to the local hardware store and get a gallon of pool acid(muratic acid) and a plastic spray bottle. spray a mist on the rust wait a while and mist again after 5-10 min. hose off with water hose. repeat as necessary. smaller parts can be covered with the acid in a plastic tub. do these things OUTSIDE, the fumes will clear out your sinuses, and if you leave the parts in the tub overnight in your shop, there will be a light coating of rust on EVERYTHING in the shop !!! DON`T ask how I know this !!! LOL. If you use the acid it will get rid of all the rust, but no grease. after you rinse the parts with water, they will be ready for paint. the stuff is also good for getting rust off old tools too. :-laf :-laf

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Beat feet on down to the local hardware store and get a gallon of pool acid(muratic acid) and a plastic spray bottle. spray a mist on the rust wait a while and mist again after 5-10 min. hose off with water hose. repeat as necessary. smaller parts can be covered with the acid in a plastic tub. do these things OUTSIDE, the fumes will clear out your sinuses, and if you leave the parts in the tub overnight in your shop, there will be a light coating of rust on EVERYTHING in the shop !!! DON`T ask how I know this !!! LOL. If you use the acid it will get rid of all the rust, but no grease. after you rinse the parts with water, they will be ready for paint. the stuff is also good for getting rust off old tools too. :-laf :-laf

Thanks for the tip. Was reading about the "rust ressolver" commercial stuff earlier. I've got a 33K gallon pool already and have muriatic acid on hand. I'll try it!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Did a little reading last night on the Muratic acid. Seems that it's not a favorite chemical to use on cast metal.



Lesser strength acids are more popular for rust removal it appears.



I'm just going to pull out the blast pot and use the tried and true method on this project.



I will however, try the muratic acid on something of no value to see how it works.