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Bolt Up 4" Exhaust

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Jardine exhaust-Northwest custom mudflaps

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I've been reading the threads on exhaust systms and it seems that that they all require "modifying" "making" "welding" brackets or other parts.

Is there a system out there that can be bolted up to the stock hanger locations without any welding of brackets, hangers etc. ? If so, who makes it and what kind of installation experiences have you had?

I would like a turbo back system.

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2001 4X4 QC 3500, Auto LSD, Towing & Camper pkgs. Silver metallic. 30ft Road Ranger 5th wheel.
 
I have the Jannetty kit which is 4" turbo to tail. You dont have to modify anything. The only welding you have to do is one hanger by the tailpipe but it does not have to be done right away. All it does is hold the tailpipe perfectly still. I put one in a friends truck and he had it welded about 2 weeks later at a muffler shop for 10 bucks. Have never insatlled other brands so i cant speak for them.
 
emddiesel,
How does the Jannetty 4" downpipe connect up to a cat with a 3" inlet, assuming the cat gets left in place? Is it long enough to replace the cat and slip straight into a 4" muffler in the stock location? Does it have a flaired end on the down pipe so you can get a piece of 4" "test pipe" and slip it in where the cat is supposed to be?
 
My Jardine bolted right on with no modifications. It took me 2 hrs. 15 min. to remove the stock exhaust and install the Jardine system, all by myself! It is a high quality system and very reasonably priced. There is a special going on right now, just over $400. 00 shipped right to your door.
<A HREF="http://pub44.ezboard.com/fwwcd2grouppurchasesfrm3.showMessage?topicID=46.topic" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>4" Jardine Exhaust System</A></font>

And it sound AWESOME!

[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 04-28-2001). ]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally posted by BIG BOB:
My Jardine

Aluminized ?

Why?

Aftermarket exhausts should be stainless steel. I can convince my wife we need to get one since the original one WILL rust off the truck. Replace it with another Aluminized system and she will know I am hot rodding the truck...



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2001. 5 QC 2500 White Sport 4x4 LWB ETC 5-Speed Anti-Spin 3. 54 Trailer Tow 241HD SLT+ Tan Leather(Mad Cow Disease) LT265/75R16E
 
My '95 Dodge Cummins still had the original exhaust when I sold it, except the muffler which I chose to change. I dont know what advantages there are to stainless with the results I had above.

Hey Big Bob I really like the way your truck sounds and so does the wife #ad
. It looks like I will be getting the same. I can save about $300 NOT going stainless. I would like to get a stainless tip, you know something to maintain #ad
.

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2001 RAM H. O. 6Sp 2500 SLT 4x4 Quad Cab, 4Wheel Disc, 4. 10 Limited Slip, Fog Lights, Muffler removed, Silence Ring Gone, Autometer Pro Comp 60# Boost & Pyro, Banks High Ram (Red), Cummins Red Valve Cover, K&N RE-0880, Skyjacker 2. 5 lift Class 2, 7218 Dual steering stabilizers, Custom Pro Fab Trackbar (sweet), EGR Flares (nice fit), Centerline Comet III 16x9. 5 with 305/70R16, Smittybuilt stainless nurf bars, ExTang BlackMax tonno, THIS IS NOT A HOBBY, THIS IS AN ADDICTION !!! MAINLINING DIESEL !!!
 
Slybones,

The Jannetty downpipe has a connection before the cat. It's the next piece (a straight section) that is attached to the cat. You are supposed to cut enough off the 3" tapered end of the cat so that the 4" pipe will match the cat diameter. Then it has to be welded together. Another option is to cut off the tapered end as previously described, gut the cat and run the 4" pipe all the way thru. You now have bypassed the cat but if anyone looks, the cat is still "there".

A third option is to chase the darn "kitty" into the woods and just use the 4" straight pipe (there is enough pipe supplied to do that).

And yes, the ends are flared.

I was able to use the stock rear hanger by using another 4" saddle clamp where the rear hanger attaches to the pipe. I drilled out the welded nut on the hanger and stuck one end of the saddle clamp u-bolt through it.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT,Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, ATS 3-piece Exhaust Manifold, Chrome Valve Covers, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

[This message has been edited by radixr (edited 04-28-2001). ]
 
I totally ditched the resonator. I have just straight pipe from the turbo to the muffler to the tail. I never bought an after market stainless steel exhaust mainly because i have no need for an exhaust that will outlast my truck. The longest i ever kept a vehical was 7 years. I had an aluminised Flowmaster kit in my Trans Am that i paid $270 for the kit, for 6 years when i sold the car and all the exhaust had was surface rust. And i live in the salty Northeast. The stainless Borla kit was over $500. Personally the only reason i would buy a stainless exhaust would be for appearence concerns.
 
Hey BIG BOB or anyone else. So, I am totally convinced that the 4" is the way to go. There is one thing that is holding me back; I put in the muffler elimination kit from geno's and jerked my kittys guts at the same time. I love the sound. The turbo really talks through the pipe now. What type of difference will there be with the 4" system, especially since there will be a muffler now? Will it get quieter, deeper, or what?

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1998 RAM Cummins Diesel 2500 4x4 club cab/long bed, auto with 3. 54 rears. Horton electric fan clutch, fuel pump up 15%, K&N air filter, Kitty and muffler MIA. Rhino liner, Centerline comet III,s (16x8), Kelly 285/75/r16, Smittybuilt nerf bars, Lund bug shield, auxillary back up lights, Combo Pyro/egt gauge on a-pillar, Pioneer system w/ 12-disc changer, two amps and a pair of Rockford 10" under seat. Factory OEM fog lights.
 
The Banks 4" stainless exhaust is complete bolt-on, requires no welding. Comes with all clamps and hangers required. Pricey, but it is the best you can get if you want to spend the money. I got it on my truck, minus the muffler. #ad
That stainless pipe sure does look pretty under there. #ad
 
Evan, I will have to crawl under your truck and take a look. Maybe at Cummins on the 12th.

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2001 RAM H. O. 6Sp 2500 SLT 4x4 Quad Cab, 4Wheel Disc, 4. 10 Limited Slip, Fog Lights, Muffler removed, Silence Ring Gone, Autometer Pro Comp 60# Boost & Pyro, Banks High Ram (Red), Cummins Red Valve Cover, K&N RE-0880, Skyjacker 2. 5 lift Class 2, 7218 Dual steering stabilizers, Custom Pro Fab Trackbar (sweet), EGR Flares (nice fit), Centerline Comet III 16x9. 5 with 305/70R16, Smittybuilt stainless nurf bars, ExTang BlackMax tonno, THIS IS NOT A HOBBY, THIS IS AN ADDICTION !!! MAINLINING DIESEL !!!
 
John Emmons,

The Jardine comes with a 30" MagnaFlow muffler. It is a little louder than the stock system (resonator and muffler) in the cab, but not offensive. When the turbo spools up, it really makes the system talk! It sounds totally AWESOME.

Vaughn MacKenzie stood by the side of the road after I first got it on, and I made a couple of passes under full throttle by him. Maybe if he read this he can give his opinion. Also on our way to BD Dyno Days we had a couple of 60 to 120 MPH runs. Vaughn made a video of one. You could hear my Jardine system in the video. Maybe he will commit about that also.

[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 04-30-2001). ]
 
Ok guys. . I have a couple of questions hoping that you can help me out. I purchased a Jardine 4" exhaust and haven't had the time to install it. It is still sitting in my garage in the original box.

Now after purchasing it, I have been wondering if I made the right choice or not. Is a stainless system better? and why? I understand that the aluminum system will rust quicker then the stainless, but is there anything else that would make a stainless system better on our trucks? Or should I go ahead and install my jardine system and quit worrying about it?

Thanks guys

Kev
 
<font color=blue>Kevin -

Quit worrying about it... ... it will do fine. You living in the dry climate (as compared to me) it will take a while for it to actually rust if it does at all. Install it and be happy... ... .

How was London? Nightshift kinda sucks... . <font size=-2>

[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (Eric Howard) (edited 04-30-2001). ]
 
Aside from appearence and overall longevity, there is absolutley no advantage to Stainless steel over aluminized steel. I live in the North East where they salt the roads to death and i have averaged 5-7 years on an aluminized exhaust. It may get surface rust, but it is still solid. I dont keep my vehicles much longer then 5 years or so and the only thing you can see on my exhaust is the tip and that IS stainless steel. Thats why i cant justify the extra expense. If you live in a dry area that never sees snow (and in turn, salt) it should last even longer. Alot of exhausts rust from the inside out, mainly due to not running the engine long enough to vaporise any condensation in the exhaust. That is why it is bad to start the engine and let it warm up, then shut it down. The water just sits in the exhaust and corodes the hell out of it. Thats always a good reason to "floor" the truck for a few seconde once it is warm to blow out any condensation. Enjoy your new exhaust, and with the money you saved, buy a nice stainless tip. Then go blow your condensation all over a Ford
 
No salt? Absolutely no need for stainless.

EMDDIESEL is right about most exhaust systems rotting from the inside out, but the rules are a bit different for a diesel. The inside of the exhaust gets coated with a nice black protective layer, soot. You still get the condensation, but the soot helps protect against rust.

My $. 02
-Ryan
 
Kevin!
You NEED a stainless system. I'm so sure of it, I'll help you out be taking that pesky old Jardine off your hands so you have more room in your garage! (What a guy, huh?)

Seriously, as I recall, the stock system is stainless back to the muffler, or have I been inhaling too many fumes again?

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'94 3500 4x4, 210,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil Air, Oil & Bypass Filters & Lubes, AWOL intake boot.
Punchlist: 14 cm Turbo Housing & 215 Injectors.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"I am my own performance station"
 
Yeah BIG BOB is right, he dropped me at the side of the road then went blasting by a couple times last fall #ad
. I kept far off to the side as that crazed maniac went screaming by, LOL #ad
OK it wasn't quite like that, but his exhaust sounded great at speed, nice basso 6-cyl diesel tones, without the brapp straightpipe emits. The effects were nice as he roared a mile or so thru the woods on that lonely stretch of straightaway. The turbo whine is there but not pronounced. If going Jardine I would definitely get the 5" tail piece because I think it helps the sound. The Jardines I've heard without it don't sound as good, at idle it sounds like pulsating air right at the exit, not the open, deep sound like I prefer.

The video shots of us racing from 80-120 didn't pick up the sound all that much from inside my cab, most of the exhaust sound you hear is my engine desparately attempting (but failing miserably) to keep up with BIG BOB #ad


Vaughn
 
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