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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission BOMB effect on Cruise Control?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission factory tach

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Brake Rotor observations

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I'm Trying to decide on the preferred BOMBing plan for my CTD. Will any of the popular modifications (timing, fueling, or injectors or any combination) cause problems with the function or accuracy of the factory cruise control? :confused:
 
I have a timing bo, a fueling box, and the turnbuckle on the turbo.



If I don't use the fueling box, the timing box helps the CC from being too erratic. If I do use the F. Box, it goes back to being erratic with wild pulses of acceleration. That is only on inclines, even moderate ones.



I don't have bigger injectors yet so I don't know about that...

Hope this helps



Oh and if you like to floor it on the hills, then no problem:D
 
I run the Diesel Dynamics Ultimate Fueling Module with no problems with cruise control. The only thing I would like to see different would be it working past 85 mph... .
 
If you do have a problem with the cruise being too responsive, it's easy to remedy. After puting in my 370 injectors and 3k governer spring kit, my throttle became so sensitive I couldn't stand to use my cruise control, you could see the boost gauge fluctuating constantly even though the throttle pedal was barely moving. What I did, was cut the plastic vacume tubing running down to the cruise control servo then I took the smallest size vacume hose they make, tied a half hitch in it, not tight, and used the hose to splice the plastic tubing back together. I did this just above where there is a sleeve to protect the lines from chaffing so I was able to slide the sleeve over the splice and you can't even see it. Only draw back is when you first set the cruise, it takes a bit for the vacume to come up enough to hold the speed ( about a half mile or so of waiting) but once it takes over, there is no pulsing and it has no problem maintaining speed on the hills.



dan

bomb on!
 
Mine works fine on level surfaces, but surges badly on hills. What works for me is to depress the accelerator pedal a little at the bottom of a hill and very gradually let off. This allows the cruise to maintain the speed without the surging.
 
My cruise is surging pretty badly also, on flats it works fine but any hills cause it to over react, then cut the throttle when it overshoots, then hard on the throttle... ... . It unlocks the TCC when it lets off, then it locks again when it starts adding power and even slips when it nails the power on a steep hill. I just don't use the cruise much anymore. It costs me at least 2 MPG also. A decent transmission would help too :D :D
 
Throttle response huh?

Thanks for the responses. It seems the problem is with the modified throttle response. Since I don't tow heavy, and am a 'flatlander' :) , the issue may not be that great of a concern. Do you think the addition of injectors (DDII or DDIII) and an EZ would be a better choice over a injectors and a comp in this situation? I'd like to keep the cruise operational. I don't use it that much, but I do use it on longer trips. Thoughts ? It's great to have these forums to ask questions of those who've 'been there, done that'



Richard
 
I'm working on trying to insert a pic but so far it is a size thing. You can buy adjustable needle valves (adjustable type) that can be inserted into the vacuum line to the vacuum control module for the cruise. You close them almost all the way down. The tighter they are (Almost Closed), the slower the response of the vacuum module when the cruise is on. When I engage mine, it will take almost 30 second for it to take hold. My cruise will hold my speed to within 1/2 mph. Surging is eliminated. The adjust ability of the needle valve lets each driver set to his own style. they work very well. I gave one to Arron at Edge Products and he can let you know his thoughts on them. I've had mine for over a year now with no problems empty or loaded, hills or flats. Does not matter. Another benefit is that you will see your mileage go up anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 of an mpg because the throttle is engaged so much slower. :D
 
The old needle valve trick!!! LOL

Would appreciate the pic if you can get it... . Sounds like the solution to me. BOMBS AWAY!!!!Oo.



P. S. I love this place:-laf
 
I know the ETH has the electronic cruise, I believe 2001 was the year for the ETC (not sure). My Powermax makes my cruise get real sensitive too. Boost will vary up and down by 10-12 psi. The nice thing though is that I can just turn it off and use the cruise then when I want the power I just turn it back on and it comes back on at whatever power level I have it set to (usually 7).
 
My ETH with DD2s makes the cruise surge badly, it is wayyy overreactive. The only way I can think of to fix it is wire in a resistor and switch in series with the APPS so you can switch it on and reduce the effect of the throttle.



I tried turning on my PS High Idler to do this trick but kept setting codes due to the High Idler not having the Idle Validation switchout. My plan is to BOMB the H. I. to fix the idle validation problem (when you switch it on it makes the ECM think the throttle is at idle no matter what RPM/MPH, thus confusing it and causing codes).



Vaughn
 
For all of you out there a needle valve can be gotten through Grainger Supply. The more precision one you get the greater your control. You can even put a vacuum gauge on it to watch its response so you can see what affect your adjustment has. Your trucks should use vacuum to the control head. It will be electrically controlled but the vacuum supply's the umph! for the throttle cable. I have a 2001 HO Short Bed with 275 and EZ Comp. The needle valve is inserted in the vacuum line to the module under the battery. The needle valve is placed between the spread bars up near the brake manifold as that is where the vacuum line runs up to. Enjoy. :D ;) Oo.
 
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