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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) BOMB'd Now transmission Scares Me...Help?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) clutch question

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I got this truck, used, about a month ago. Pulled my 10K lb 5th wheel with it stock, and soon found it didn't have the umph that my V10 had. Got the #8 TST kit and that more than satisfied my power concerns. Pulled my 5thW for the first time today, and sure enough, just as I've been reading here, the dreaded slip and shudder! The transmission temp did not go over 180.



I have a trip planned to go to Virginia this weekend and I'll be in some hilly interstate. Am I doomed? Is there anything I can do besides really baby the pedal to get through this week. From what I've read, a new TC is the normal fix, but I don't have time for that, now. Any advice?:{
 
I'd recommend doing the converter as soon as possible. I have a 6 plate in mine. I was having problems with my 180 injectors so I borrowed a set of 215s from a friend then my converter started to slip. I put in a converter from Suncoast and have never been happier! I wish I would have done it MUCH sooner! A decient shop should be able to get the job done in a day. Talk to the trans companies, I'm sure they could overnight one to ya!





Josh
 
Josh... I take it you did the TC yourself. I'm a very amature mechanic. Is this a definate shop job to upgrade the TC? I do my own brakes and minor stuff like that, and didn't know what kind of special tools that would be needed. Looks like pulling the transmission would be the hardest part. I didn't find much info as far as do it yourself TC replacements.
 
I would't try to replace my TC, and I am a bit more than an amateur mechanic. Besides the trans being heavy (!) you need some way to spread the frame rails a bit to get the crossmember out. Fortunately good shops do this all the time and have the right tools. Although installing the TC in the trans is not difficult once the trans is out.



Anyway, you might do a search here. I researched all the Performance Trans. builders when I got mine done and came to the conclusion that ATS had done the most thorough job of engineering on the TC, VB and Trans. I'm sure others have other suggestions. However, ATS can ship a TC & VB to any good shop.



I just got back from a trip, and I stopped by their place in Denver (Wheat Ridge actually) and on one of their walls, in their office is a map of the U. S. & Canada, and they had literally hundreds of little pins in that map, showing ATS installers. You might call Clint, I'm sure they have somebody near you. His # is 800-949-6002
 
I did the converter myself. It is more than an easy job, especially on my back. It's also more than a one man job. If you just changing the converter, why do you have to drop the trans? I didn't. If you remove the transmission mount, but leave the crossmember in, you just slide the trans and T-case back till you can't anymore, reach up in there MEASURE the converter to the bellhousing space (front to back) Remove the converter and install the new one. Reassemble, add trans fluid and let'er buck!

It took us about 14 hours, but we spent probably 7 screwing around running errands.



Josh
 
Josh,



It can be done that way and it works but people ought to know about the hassle of turning the torqueplate for installing the converter bolts and torquing them in a cross pattern way. It's pretty tedious in tight quarters. You don't need a method of spreading the frame to remove the crossmember - the trick to that is to bang the crossmember upwards until you can turn it enough to bring it down kinda' sideways. The member is wider at the top than at the bottom.
 
You will not be doing yourself any favors babying the fuel pedal. Trans line pressures are effected by throttle position and you will be better off at higher rpm's as well. Way better for your transmission to put your foot in it with od off than Babying it with OD on. Low rpm torque, light throttle pressure = shudder and slippage!
 
KRS, I'm not saying that's the right or wrong way to do it, but walk into a shop and ask a Tech how he tightens the converter bolts. Tight quarters on the floor or tight quarters in the air, I don't know of anyone that tightens them in a cross pattern.





Josh
 
This is not in criticism of anyone, just trying to help..... It's popular these days to support the theory of changing out "just the torque converter" much as one would change the clutch out in a manual transmission. Not good..... Manual trannies are full of "hard parts"(gears) but automatics have clutch packs and a hydraulic system that cannot be ignored, if you want the transmission to last. The auto transmission needs to be considered as a complete UNIT when considering upgrades.

The general goal, and one that contributes to customer satisfaction, is to only have to take that transmission out ONCE, get it all done right, and enjoy the heck out of it for the next few years.

I've seen many instances where some people would be better off if the crossmember had hinges on it. :D
 
I have to agree with Briar Hopper doing it as a unit, the converter is one thing but what if it's fine and your slipping the clutch packs..... there more trouble than the converter is. Pick who you want to do the transmission... it's your money but go through the thing!



The transmission is not fun to pull in the garage... . it's a PITA, and when you have it all balanced nice on the floor jack with blocks on it and pull that 65lbs converter... there she goes on her butt!



Jim
 
I agree fully. You should do the transmission as a unit. I donno about anyone else, but I'm on a pretty tight budgit. I'm lucky to have the valve body and converter.





Josh

(another reason I wish I would have joined the TDR before BOMBing)
 
Rather than risk anything else, I contacted a close-by ProLoc francise, and they'll replace the TC and service the rest of the transmission for a shade under $2000. It sounded reasonable. The shop was recommended by Suncoast, so it should be reputable. Maybe this diesel wasn't such a good idea. Looked like fun at first, but now looks expensive. :confused:
 
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