Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Boost Clamps

[KKaiser]

I recently started hearing a noise upon acceleration. Kind of a squeak/whine. My boost gauge seemed to be a bit slow in responding but still ultimately reaches ~30 lbs. (I have an EZ).

I started checking the clamps on the intake clamps and was able to tighten all of them, several of them by multiple turns. I'd done this when new since I'd read about leak potentials here but they definitely were looser now at 35K. Tomorrow will tell if this cured the noise.



Two questions;

Using a 1/4 inch ratchet, about five inches long, I tightened them until I met moderate resistance. Does that seem about right, too tight or should I torque the I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER out of them?



Why do the clamps on the turbo side have springs while on the intake side they don't?



Thanks for any help,



Kent

 

[illflem]

With a 5'' wrench you would have to give it all you've got. They need to be tighter than you feel is adequate, 70 in/lbs on a 12 valve, not sure on a 24. Once with a torque wrench is a good idea for getting a feel for it. Cheap hair spray on the cleaned mating surfaces of the tubes and fittings guarantees the tubes won't pop off. Work fast before it dries.

 

[Bob Wagner]

I've switched out to the breeze clamps that can be found at any Napa store.



With the added spring tension the clamps work great and most are under 5 bucks a piece.



Its been over a year and I am very happy with the Napa Breeze clamps .



I may have the part numbers if you want them.

 

[KKaiser]

Ok, today's drive definitely established that I had been leaking boost. The truck was much more responsive, must have been a slow degradation as I hadn't noticed it.



illflem, 70 in lbs is only 6 ft lbs so I think I probably got that.



Back to my question #2, why are the clamps different on the turbo vs. intake side?



Kent