boost gauge installation

[turbo lcc]

How/where on the motor do I install the boost gauge?

 

[Utah Willie]

Boost Gauge

Install the gauge in the cab somewhere ... . Seriously, I tapped into the intake at the elbow where it turns down into the manifold proper. It was easy to drill and tape and the hose to the gauge is out of the way for maintenance chores.

 

[DonBaggett]

I don't know if I tapped into the best place, but it works well. I tapped into the top of the aluminum intake air duct. I'm wondering now if I shouldn't have tapped into the back side of it in order to get the air tube more out of the way. However, I did it like the instructions said, but it's right there, very visible.



Don

 

[Ranger Dick]

On the intake mainfold, behind the fuel filter, there is a 1/2" drive plug, it is near the MAP sensor. If you take a 1/2 drive extension, and a drive ratchet, you can unscrew it. The plug is 3/4" male pipe. You can then go down to the local hardware store, pick up a square drive male plug, the one with a square protrusion extending out the back of the plug, and drill and tap it for the same thread as the Boost sender you have. Then screw the new plug back in. install your boost sender. Keep the old plug incase you want to return to original setting.

 

[Irontrader]

I thought that some people have commented that hooking the boost gauge to the pipe plug at the rear of the manifold results in needle bounce on the gauge. Is this true?



I need to install a boost gauge and using the rear pipe plug may be easier than taping a new hole in the intake system someplace.

 

[dresslered]

I like the intake horn, myslef. I tapped mine just below the dip stick tube so that the boost tubing can get tie wrapped directly to the tube. The plug location has been reported to cause needle bounce, and I didn't like the idea of making a complete right angle urn with the tubing.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Go with the intake pipe. Its really easy to do and simple to get to. I have seen needle problems when the gauge is drawing boost from the plug on the block in a lot of cases, but not all.

 

[mediccummin]

boost gauge

I used the 3/4 plugged hole just behind the fuel filter. Removed the plug with 1/2 drive and used reducers to get to desired size for boost tubing. I have experienced no needle bounce, and it responds immediately. I also ran my boost tubing through 3/16ID vinyl tubing to avoid kinking and rubbing that could cause a hole. Good luck Dwayne.

 

[Ranger Dick]

I can't speak to the issue of needle bounce, as I have a SPA digital guage, but as far as the 3/4" plug, I didn't use reducers, but drilled and tapped a male square drive 3/4" plug. The only thing I found is that the plug cannot have any protrusions past the outside diameter of the threads. Hence the square drive. The way the manifold is cast, any protrusions on the plug will hit the manifold and not allow proper tightening.

 

[Michael Hughes]

I went with the 3/4" plug. I don't get any gauge bouncing. If you would like to see how I did my install, take a look at the How to that I did.



Let me know if this help or not.

 

[DHatfield]

I tapped my boost gauge into the alunimum intake air duct as I thought that was easy to get to.

 

[Bigsaint]

No needle bounching here with the 3/4" plug. Use which ever method you feel comfortable with.

 

[fj40charles]

I also tapped into the aluminum intake housing below the dipstick where it starts to turn down. I had it installed with the provided

1/8" NPT to 1/8" compression and realized I could do a much cleaner job with a 1/8" NPT x 1/8" compression that has a 90 degree bend in it. Now, the plastic tube does not bend and looks like it belongs there.



Charles