Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Boost plug won`t come loose

[majasride]

I`m installing guages in my 99` 24 valve . Cant get the 3/4 " plug loose in the manafold for the boost . I`m doing a filter change and a lift pump at the same time so I have real good acess to the plug . Have used a breaker bar ,so far no luck. Thought about heat -aluminum would expand more than the steel plug, but the map senser`s right there,don`t want to get to carryed away and bung somthing up . Anyone else have this problem ? Or have another place to get boost pressure from? How about the 1/2" plug on the other side of the map ? Any one with a plan I`d love to hear it.

 

[csevers]

Welcome to the TDR web site

I plumbed my boost guage line in to the wastegate fitting as they are the same size as the guage fittings and just takes a T fitting and some extra line, or you could get a "boost bolt" from Piers and use that.



Good Luck

 

[majasride]

I had`nt thought abought the wastgate, I guess you used a brass T infront of the boost elbow ,how did you get the boost gauge line to that side of the engine - plastic line - heat , any problems ? Whats a boost bolt ? Kinda like a banjo for a schrader ? Where would it go , somewere on the intake I`d guess, Thanks.

 

[BillGotthelf]

Drill and Tap the intake-takes 5 minutes and gives you alot of options.

 

[csevers]

The boost bolt it's a bolt with a hollow center so when you replace one of the intake manifold bots it has a path through the center to see boost. The fitting screws right into the top.

I ran my plastic line under the hood seal on the cowl and down the right fender to the turbo havn't melted it yet. I did buy an extra line kit to make it work that way.

Taping the intake horn is another way but I already have several things taped into the intake horn.



Craig

 

[majasride]

Tapping the intake horn sounds good ,if its what I think it is ,the removable cast aluminum piece btwn the last intercooler boot and the manifold ?That would make drill & tap easy and clean -removed. Is the boost pressure the same for the gauge any where from the turbo to the head ?Is the horn thicker any where in particular. What else do you have connected to the horn?Thanks this will help me not keep wrenching on and probably messing up the 3/4 plug.

 

[Sticks]

You would be hard put to do any damage to the 1/2 drive 3/4" plug between the MAP sensor and the fuel filter. If you get it out, you will have to go to the hardware store to get a 3/4 npt to 1/4 npt bushing/reducer - stainless or galvanized.



The boost bolt on the intake manifold would be my first choice, 3/4 plug the second, intake third. I would like to see before and after (intercooler) readings with the boost tapping the turbo.



The intake horn is about 5/16" thick, fairly soft aluminum. Comes off in 5 minutes with a 10mm socket on the mounting bolts (take the oil dipstick bolt out FIRST!) and an 11mm deep well for the boot clamp. BE NUMBER ONE CAREFUL when you lift the horn off the grid heater assembly. The gasket likes to stick to either part, sometimes both so you do not want to damage it. Decide where you will tap into your horn BEFORE you remove it. I say this because if you decided to put it on the bottom side for the clean look, you will need to mark where so you don't have space occupation issues with your boost tap and the plastic cover above the pump.



Use a center punch to dent the mounting point where you are going to drill. If you have a drill press, clamp your horn in position and drill away. Without removing the horn from the press, switch out the drill bit with the correct NPT tap and use the press BY HAND to tap the hole. Either use the chuck key to turn the tap, or a socket on the pulley on top. Makes it a lot easier to get a good straight tap. Make sure to use some grease or oil to lube up the tap while you are doing this, makes for much cleaner threads in the aluminum.