Attention: TDR Forum Junkies On vacation and the boost pressure normally is up to 10# - 30# towing (13k) 60 mph out of O/D. Can't get it above 6# and it is noisy in the cab. SOMETHING is wrong with the boost system, but what?
Just had the VP replaced, figuered the boots were not put back on right. But how do you test it?
Home Depot or Lowe's PVC plumbing
4" rubber coupling splicer,
4" threaded clean out,
4" threaded cleanout plug (has the raised square for a wrench),
24" aluminum tubing,
20" threaded 1/4" rod,
a handfull of 1/2 20 nuts,
1/4" NPT male quick disconnect air chuck.
4" rubber splicer fits on the 4" threaded cleanout, screw and glue in the 4" cleanout plug, drill and 1/4" NPT tap the raised square of the threaded cleanout plug for the 1/4 NPT male quick disconnect air chuck.
Take off the turbo air inlet hose and mount the adapter on the turbo, tighten down the hose clamps. BUT, as soon as you apply 30 psi to the air chuck the adapter will blow off the turbo inlet, hence the square tubing.
Look at your turbo AND your altrnator mounting bracket.
On my 2002 ETC I could wedge a 4" piece of square tubing under the alternator mounting bracket to the adapter square end and keep the adapter from blowing off on the engine side. However on the fender side I cut 2 10" pieces of the square tubing and drilled 1/4" holes in all 4 ends. I cut the threaded rod into 2 10" lengths. I made a square looking device with the 2 square tubing pieces, 1 behind the turbo intake frame, and the other square tubing piece at the square face of adapter you just made. You use the threaded rod to hold the ends of the square tubing tightly between the frame of the turbo and the square face of the adapter.
Apply 30# air pressure to the quick disconnect and look for the leak.
Mine was in the boost tubing between the engine manifold and the gauge under the dash. Simple to find with the adapter, impossible to find without the adapter.
No boost, no power so the adapter stays in the truck.
Bob Weis
Just had the VP replaced, figuered the boots were not put back on right. But how do you test it?
Home Depot or Lowe's PVC plumbing
4" rubber coupling splicer,
4" threaded clean out,
4" threaded cleanout plug (has the raised square for a wrench),
24" aluminum tubing,
20" threaded 1/4" rod,
a handfull of 1/2 20 nuts,
1/4" NPT male quick disconnect air chuck.
4" rubber splicer fits on the 4" threaded cleanout, screw and glue in the 4" cleanout plug, drill and 1/4" NPT tap the raised square of the threaded cleanout plug for the 1/4 NPT male quick disconnect air chuck.
Take off the turbo air inlet hose and mount the adapter on the turbo, tighten down the hose clamps. BUT, as soon as you apply 30 psi to the air chuck the adapter will blow off the turbo inlet, hence the square tubing.
Look at your turbo AND your altrnator mounting bracket.
On my 2002 ETC I could wedge a 4" piece of square tubing under the alternator mounting bracket to the adapter square end and keep the adapter from blowing off on the engine side. However on the fender side I cut 2 10" pieces of the square tubing and drilled 1/4" holes in all 4 ends. I cut the threaded rod into 2 10" lengths. I made a square looking device with the 2 square tubing pieces, 1 behind the turbo intake frame, and the other square tubing piece at the square face of adapter you just made. You use the threaded rod to hold the ends of the square tubing tightly between the frame of the turbo and the square face of the adapter.
Apply 30# air pressure to the quick disconnect and look for the leak.
Mine was in the boost tubing between the engine manifold and the gauge under the dash. Simple to find with the adapter, impossible to find without the adapter.
No boost, no power so the adapter stays in the truck.
Bob Weis
