Boost problem with GSK?

[Dennis Garrett]

Replaced original 180 HP injectors with 215's and added the 3k GSK kit at the same time. Have a 230 HP #8 TST plate, forward slightly. I had an easy 31 lbs boost before, now struggle to get 29. In lockup, towing, cannot get more that 19 lbs WOT until RPM gets above 2500, and won't go past 2800. I do get about 29lbs WOT at higher RPM unlocked, but still won't go past about 2800. Truck was like a rocket before, but seems sluggish now. All boost fittings are tight, been playing with the plate & AFC, but no help. Temp pre-turbo will go to about 1000. I took the K&N out & put in a stock air cleaner, seems worse yet. Have looked at all the obvious, fuel filter, boost clamps, fuel heater strainer, valve setting, boost fitting set screw, throttle linkeage & cable, etc. but running out of ideas. Hate to go back to the original injectors & springs, but might do that next. Anybody have the correct spring height for the overflow valve, haven't looked at it yet. Maybe the GSK's need adjustment?

 

[moparguy]

If memory serves, the overflow spring should be . 500. You didn't mention it, but did your idle speed change after the GSK install? If it was lower, you might need to tighten things up a click on both springs.



Another possibilty, is the boost line is off at the back of the AFC housing, or somewhere between the housing and the turbo, don't really think that's it since your still making decient boost numbers. And to tell the truth, I'm not sure if that would affect things only off idle or all the time.



Good luck,



Ronnie

 

[zjones]

Put a GSK 4000 in my truck today & have the same prob. ??

called PDR & they said it was the governor lever adjustment

(check out www.piersdiesel.com/leveradj.htm)(my gov. lever is about 1/16" from the bottom of the plate)

1st, 2nd, & 3rd I get 4000 rpm; 4th I get 3900+

but 5th gear is way slower than before with the TST #11 plate &

I'm only getting 30-31 max boost with no smoke upon accel. when I was getting 35-36psi with considerable smoke upon accel.

PDR said rather than adj. the gov. lever I should try moving my

#11 . 030 - . 040" forward. I will report back in an hour or so to post my results.

 

[moparguy]

I suffer from CRS (can't remember s... , stuff), no know cure. And I'm blaming CRS for forgetting the governer lever possibility. I was lucky, mine was dead on.



Good luck, R

 

[zjones]

yap the gov. lever adj. seems to be the prob.

I slid my #11 plate . 035" forward and gained 1-2 psi. (top 33psi), more smoke, & 100 MPH + IN A 5 SPEED WITH 4:10 !!!! :--) and higher egt. 's (guess I'll be getting a 16cm housing)

 

[Todd T]

Dennis something that bit me a week ago was my plate was low in the holes and the AFC stop was dragging on it. loosen the afc cap screws and see if it travels back and forth OK, without binding. or you can take the initial fuel screw out and use something to depress the diaphram to check that way. dont slip and poke a hole in it though.



2800 is a little tight, maybe come out a click on each gov. spring too. are you sure you got the plate back in the same spot? maybe you are back a little farther this time.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

The Plate is back in the same spot by my scribe mark, I'll see if it's dragging when I get home & have a chance to look at again. That's something I hadn't even considered or heard of before. Might take the overflow valve out & look at the spring too. Pier's lever adjustment looks like fun too, might try that. It's been my experience in the past, at least with my truck, not to go to far forward with the plate. For me, it seems like I'd have gobs of power & smoke at low end, but not enough RPM for line pressure, and get a lot of slippage. Then as RPM built, it seemed to fizzle out too early at top end. I found my "sweet spot" to be about 1/16" ahead of center. It felt jet powered, until I put in the 215's & the GSK. I might back the springs of a notch & see if it helps. I'm thinking I'm just not dumping in the go juice like I did before the changes. My fuel pump has about 80k on it, maybe it's getting weak.

 

[PHaller]

I had the same problem after the 4K install. It was the lever adjustment. The GSK resets the lever and it can get hung up on the plate nose. It's a real contortionists act to get those bast*rd screws out and the lever adjusted. I spent a full day messing with it untill I finally got it right. Sure runs good now though.

GSK and a plate are ,IMHO, the 2 best upgrades for a 12 valver.

-Paul R. Haller-Oo. Oo.

 

[zjones]

Well I moved my plate back to the stock position. (did not like the way it fueled ) Then adj. the governor lever... ... WOW :--)



36psi of boost is back, more smoke, & egt's hotter than ever!!

(RUNS LIKE A BAT OUT OF HADES Oo. )



The lever was never adj. properly (the plate was polished only about . 030" up the fueling curve)



The adj. is not that hard?(takes bout hour & half pull apart and set ) Just remove the fuel filter, remove the afc housing, remove the cover, & have a 10mm crawfoot.

Set the lever to the point right before the fueling curve when the lever first touches the plate. (tried everything else & this setting worked best for me)



A BIG THANKS TO THE PEOPLE AT PDR



I am one happy camper Oo.

 

[radixr]

Fuel Shutoff Solenoid.

After I got my 4K springs, I had (and still have) the same problem. I checked the gov. lever adjustment and it seemed ok except that I did not have the fuel shutoff solenoid in the run position. Should I check it again? How could the fuel shutoff solenoid postion affect the gov. lever adjustment?

 

[Dennis Garrett]

I solved my problem by adjusting the lever. I think it was adjusted for the stock plate in the stock position. It always seemed to run great with the 230 plate I've had in for the last 150k miles, until I replaced the injectors & put in the spring kit. I tried the lever adjustment, as per instructions, and found it to be set way too low for my plate which is moved slightly forward. I don't know what affect the springs had on a setup that always worked, but that was the problem. I set the lever with the selenoid in "Run" position, & that made all the difference in the world.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Dennis, you can put the fuel shutoff in the run position if you want to, mine makes no difference but some have reported that it does. I think everytime you move the plate of make a changes you should check to gov arm (just an opinion) set it Nose to Nose with the plate or as close as possible but be careful when backing the screw out not to drop it in the pump or you will be fishing, Report back so we can check the progress.



Jim