Boresighting kit for rifle...

[fkovalski]

I purchased a M77® Mark II Standard with a Leupold VX-II 4-12x40mm Adj. Obj. Many thanks for members' advice on rifles offered to me in a previous thread.

I am looking to you again for recommendations about boresighting kits. (Be easy on me and don't make me spend $500 over my initail budget like last time ) I am thinking about the Cabela's Laser Boresighting Kit . I am familair with the basic principals of how the sighting kits works. Prices range all over the place and obiously quality relates to dollars. Any comments/ opinions on this item or silimar is appreciated. -frank.

 

[El Putzo]

What for?

Why waste your hard earned money on a bore sighting kit? Mount the scope, get a 4x4 piece of cardboard with a piece of tape on it, or a large cardboard box and go shoot at it. Start at 25 yds, when you get pretty close to hitting your target center, move it back to 50yds and repeat, then to 100yds and repeat again, then to 150. This method is good in two ways, first, you don't waste any money on a bore sighting kit, plus you get to shoot and get used to your gun. Chances are with a good quality scope like you have, it is going to be within 12 inches after you mount it without any adjustments. Plus, even if you had a bore sighting kit, chances are you'll still end up doing it the way I just described. Happy and Safe shooting.

 

[Scot]

Set the rifle up in a rest if available or bags. Remove the bolt, sight and center the target at ~100 yds through the bore. Carefully, without moving the rifle, adjust the crosshairs into the center of the target. You are now within 4" or so.



Shoot a few rounds until you get a good group. Put the rifle back in the rest/bags and center the crosshairs on the bull. Adjust the scope over until the cross hairs are on the group.



You should be dead on at 100 yds.

 

[El Putzo]

Set the rifle up in a rest if available or bags. Remove the bolt, sight and center the target at ~100 yds through the bore. Carefully, without moving the rifle, adjust the crosshairs into the center of the target. You are now within 4" or so.



Shoot a few rounds until you get a good group. Put the rifle back in the rest/bags and center the crosshairs on the bull. Adjust the scope over until the cross hairs are on the group.



You should be dead on at 100 yds.

I think you may have that backwards. All of the scopes I have ever owned, you move the bullet to the scope, not the scope to the bullet. I guess technically you are moving the scope to the bullet but they label on the scope so that it appears the other way. For instance, if at 100yds I'm shooting an inch low and inch to the left, I'm going to move my scope 1 inch up and 1 inch to the right. I think they do it this way to make it less confuseing. I think alot of scopes used to be that way, but in the 20 or 30 I've sighted in myself of helped sight in, I've only seen a couple, and they were older models.

 

[fkovalski]

What for?

I am actually doing as you recommend. I was not on the board at 100yards and had to come into 50 just to start. Initially I was 8" low and 8" left at 50. Am now 2 & 2" respectivly and getting closer. I will eventually get to 2" high centered at 100. And, yes! shooting more and getting used to the new weapon. I was thinking of the sighting kit for a couple of reasons: It would cut down on my sore shoulder but also- It would be handy if for any reason the scope gets knocked or mis aligned in the hunt and may need to be re- set (re verified. ) One cannot always fire for siting purposes out during season. This to me is legitimate and if purchasing a kit for this, then why not get one early to assist in the initial setup. I would be splitting the cost of a kit with my brother.



edit: I did purchase a stand to assist in sighting.

 

[justinp20012500]

Set the rifle up in a rest if available or bags. Remove the bolt, sight and center the target at ~100 yds through the bore. Carefully, without moving the rifle, adjust the crosshairs into the center of the target. You are now within 4" or so.



Shoot a few rounds until you get a good group. Put the rifle back in the rest/bags and center the crosshairs on the bull. Adjust the scope over until the cross hairs are on the group.



You should be dead on at 100 yds.

You got it!!! I have a Luepold bore sighting kit that I will part with for cheap. The method of removing the bolt and looking down the barrell works much better. (Kinda of hard with my 17 HMR though) When you are bore sighting it. I believe you have to adjust the scope oppisite the direction it has to go. Someone please correct me if i am wrong.


(Does anyone know where the d a m n spell check button is????)

 

[Jengle]

Exactly what ElPutzo said. Save your money and use it for more ammo, or bombs for the truck. Bore sighters will only get you close, they won't get it in the bull, except those freak chances you get lucky.

 

[ndurbin]

I always just went out with somebody to spot for me and set up a target. I just kept plinky away tell I got it sighted in. Usually didnt take to long and a box or two of bullets.



Nathan

 

[fkovalski]

I just got back from a couple of hours at the range. Very productive! And, I ran into an ole' friend whom I had not seen in a year or two. He helped advise me of my first revolver purchase a while back. This guy has a small arsenal and after the shoot we were talking weapons et. al. at his house over a pint. Saw his reloading set- up and some of his latest antiques as well as his new S&W 500 revolver ! What a gun!



Anywho- I am well on the paper at 100 yards and within 2" high of dead center just slightly to the left. I was even piggy- backing 3 of the last few shots practically running rounds through previous holes! Course, that with the rifle on the site vise. I have not fired it in a standing position yet- will do that next week. It would be great to get a grouping at this distance when standing. Am looking at charts for trajectory corrections for various distances. I like to get the chance to fire at greater distances, but for now 100 is good practice.



Since I am finally where I want to be at 100, I am going with the general concensus and hold off on the bore sight for now. The best option for me is to practice and get the feel for the Ruger as much as possible between now and 30 October. Am going to try and go out every Saturday till then.



Thanks to all for the information and replies. This site is great info for more than just trucks! But I might try and find a web site similar to TDR for rifle/ hunting hobbies. If any one knows any, I'm all ears. And, I think I might add a quote to my signature as my friend remined me:



"An armed society is a polite society. "

 

[JConley]

You have to remember that your zero is only good on the day you shot the rifle. A change in temperature can cange your zero at least 1 inch at 100 yards depending on how much the temp changed. A change in humidity can do the exact same thing, so now you are 2 inches off at 100 yards, and nothing changed on the rifle. An increase in altitude can do the same thing in addition to the temp and humidity. When you hunt is there an up or down angle to your target?? Same thing applies. As you can see, the Zero is relative unless you record the weather and target conditions at the time of zero and adjust for the weather conditions the next time you shoot.



Course when you are hunting, a few inches off your point of aim is no big deal. When you are shooting at a 12 inch by 18 inch target at 1000 yards, not compensating for the weather will result in a miss every time.

 

[Scot]

I think you may have that backwards. All of the scopes I have ever owned, you move the bullet to the scope, not the scope to the bullet. I guess technically you are moving the scope to the bullet but they label on the scope so that it appears the other way. For instance, if at 100yds I'm shooting an inch low and inch to the left, I'm going to move my scope 1 inch up and 1 inch to the right. I think they do it this way to make it less confuseing. I think alot of scopes used to be that way, but in the 20 or 30 I've sighted in myself of helped sight in, I've only seen a couple, and they were older models.

I may be wrong but I think we are talking about the same thing. What I am doing is putting the rifle (and leaving it) in the rest and and centering the scope on the target (X) and then adjusting the crosshairs to correspond to where the rifle is shooting. With that method, you never have to even look at the R--> <--L stuff on the scope.

 

[fkovalski]

Scot- what you and El P are talking about is assuming that the rifle does not move at all after firing? right? I have a site vise that rests on the tabletops at the range. But after firing it does jump and reposition. I have been adjusting the scope crosshairs based on where the round is placed. In your last post are you physically repositioning the scope based on bullet placement?

 

[KBennett]

It does not matter if the gun moves.



Here is how I do it:

1. Get a large target and put it out at 50 yards.

2. Aim the gun at the bullseye and take a couple shots, each time just re-aim at the bullseye.

3. If the bullet holes are low 1" and right 2" for example then adjust the scope towards the bullseye. Most scopes are setup for 1/4 MOA per click. For simplicity this means that at 100 yards the scope point of aim will move 1/4" for every click and at 50 yards it will only be an 1/8" for every click. In our example of low 1" and right 2" and 50 yards you would have to move the elevation up 8 clicks and windage left 16 clicks.

4. Take a couple more shots. You should be very close.

5. Move the target out to 100 yards and take a few more shots. You will probably be hitting in a different position vertically on the bullseye but your horizontal point of impact should be the same. You know what to do from here.



For consistent shots:

Remember to take deep breath and let it halfway out before squeezing the trigger. Do not let your chest lean on the bench, only your arms. Always plant your cheek firmly on the stock in the same position. Slowly squeeze the trigger and let the gun "surprise" you when it goes off.



And of course a couple basic rules of gun safety:

1. Always treat a gun as if it is loaded.

2. Never put your finger on the trigger until you are ready to shoot.

3. Do not point it at anything you do not wish to destroy.

4. Know your backstop(what is beyond the target)

 

[El Putzo]

Kbennet, right on. That's exactly how I do it, only you did a better job of explaining.

 

[Hale on wheels]

Frank, sounds like you are just about set up. If you get similar groups shooting offhand as you do out of the vise, then you are a much better shot than me! Of course, I can put one bullet through the same hole every time shooting offhand



For reference sites, check out The High Road.

 

[fkovalski]

Yes- just a matter of semantics as I am doing on the range what it is that everyone is describing. The error that I realized I was doing that Kirk pointed out: 1 click @ 100 = 1/4" NOT 1" as I was assuming. It was taking me forever to move it 8" on paper (doh!)

Now I am researching ballistics to help me figure out what rounds I want to use in the field. I was using the lowest price Remington to get on the paper and will sight the final with the actual hunting rounds to be used. Quick question- what does MOA stand for?

 

[KBennett]

Quick question- what does MOA stand for?

Minute Of Angle.

 

[Hale on wheels]

MOA = Minute of Angle. It is 1/60 of a degree as used measuring the distance around a circumference. For a typical 100yd sighting, imagine a circle with a radius of 100yds, with you in the center. You are aiming a a point along the outer edge of the circle. When you need to adjust your point of aim, you move your sight along the circumference of the circle. Since the circumference of the circle is 2*pi*r = 22619. 52 inches, 1 degree is 22619. 52/60 = 62. 832 inches, and there are 60 minutes in a degree so 1 minute = 1. 047 inches at 100 yards.