Borgeson Steering Shaft? Who's done it?

[JGrefenstette]

I have finaly decided that i must replace my steering shaft. there is soooo much play in my wheel its rediculous. Ive looked at the Borgesons and assume the one needed for a 93 would be the one with the single U-Joint and the flanged opposite end? the u-joint takes the place of the the factory dodge 'box' thing on the end of the shaft i assume?



questions:



1. how difficult is the job?

2. will this tighten my steering (take out the play and slop?)

3. can i correct the steering wheel angle (mines way to far to the right when driving streight. ) when i put the new shaft in?



thanks yall

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

It is a wonderful invention. When you replace a steering gear using the old coupler, you have to line everything up when you put it all in. With the borgeson, you can mount the gear, then telescope the shaft to fit it, instead of lining up the shaft with a 50lb steering gear in your other hand. One tip of advice though: line up the set screw with the dead center of the cut out on your steering gear input shaft. If the steering wheel is off to one side still, fix it with a steering wheel puller. If the set screw isnt in that cut out just right, the shaft will slip and distroy all the splines, thus losing your steering. I know from experience. I'd recomend the borgeson over the OEM anyday, its just a better system. And yes, it will fix your steering slop. Any other questions, let me know. My lunch is over at work, I'll be back later.

 

[JGrefenstette]

ah i see. good advice. i already appreciate havin you round here Tippin haha.



so ive i put the set screw right in the cut on the gear shaft, and my steering is still off, then ill need to pull the steering wheel? how difficult it that? with an air bag, cruise and all that junk?

 

[Suprmn]

I have installed 3. The borgeson is the only way to go. Stockers are junk with in about 5k miles. Easy install and you will love it.

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

I don't have an airbag... I guess I didn't know that was an option on first gens. But I do have cruise and all that... that stuff won't get in the way at all. You'll need a steering wheel pulled that has the bolt pattern for Chrysler vehicles, and if possible, see if you can find one with longer bolts. My bolts were just a little too short and made it hard to line up right, but it still worked. Also, the bolts holding the rag joint together under the hood are 12pt, don't use anything other than a 12pt wrench or youll be kickin yourself when you round them off. Leave the key out when you do it so the steering wheel locks and you have something holding the bolts still then. All in all, it shouldnt take you more than an hour unless something goes awry.



Youre stock coupling has a roll pin holding it to the steering gear. When I pulled my apart it was so covered in grease I didnt even realize that pin was there and spent an hour with a torch and two pry bars trying to get it apart.

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

*you need a steering wheel puller, not you need a steering wheel pulled

 

[JGrefenstette]

now that you mention it, i dont think my steering wheel has a air bag, i just assumed it did cause its bigger than the origional 1st gen steering wheels. well if i dont need to adjust my steering wheel angle, all thats required for the shaft instalation is, take the old one out, slip the new one in? i hope thats all there is too it. and ill be hoping my steering wheel corects it self too

 

[KSears]

I changed mine in the 90 w 250 I had , it was an easy job and didn't take more than a couple of hours. It was well worth the price and the work it took. It may not take all the play out of the front end but should be noticably better, the steering box gets some play in it also and can be adjusted a little.

 

[Shadrach]

I have one on my 84 crew cab and recommend it. Shadrach

 

[KOG]

Pull the steering wheel? Chrysler wheels are splined to center. If you want to move it you'll have to file a spline off of the shaft.

 

[glhs]

Got about 100,000 miles on mine. Been good so far... .....

I did buy a cheap $5 shock boot from Autozone to keep the u-joint covered.

 

[JGrefenstette]

i have a question.



if i have to file off a spline to correct my steering wheels offset problem, how did it get offset to start with? the origional owner i bought the truck from told me he got it from the dealer that way in 1993 and they told him it couldnt be adjusted??? the only other thought ive had is the pitman arm was replaced and the splines wernt lined up right?

 

[JLEONARD]

To set the record straight, my truck had about 175,000 on it and the original OEM shaft was tight as can be. That's because I have a 2wd and the UJ angle is almost 0. . therefore no stress on the funky coupler.



But yes, the Borgeson shaft is a nice upgrade. I need one now thanks to having to get towed lastpring... we needed to turn the wheel with no power and thatid in the OEM shaft coupler.

One thing to understand... . be sure to get the set screw into the groove on the steering gear. Use a lock washer to make sure the screw can not back out. That is your only fail safe to insure the yoke can not come off.

Trust me do this. Absolutelt necessary for safety.

I designed and manufactured steering shafts for 28 years... . do what I described or the results could be disaterous.



If you have any questions about installation or application contact me at

-- email address removed --

and I'll answer questions.

Jay

 

[GHarman]

JG, I replaced the OEM on my 91 with a Borgesen shaft. I did not have to pull the steering wheel. The flange attaches at the rag joint in the steering column under the hood with a different setup. Works Great! GregH

 

[KSears]

first ,, I had a 90 model, I changed the steering wheel position without problems and never had a centering spline issue. second, any geometric changesto the frontend( alignment,raisingor lowering,etc) will effect the centering of the steering wheel. Most good alignment shop can set up the center without too much trouble. If the vehicle had tie rod ends replaced for example and if not done 100% correctly , the center could be off. Most dodge trucks, or maybe all, the steering wheel revolutions to the lock position is different on turning left to stop or right to stop. Mine when new at the time was 3/4 of a revolution diffent and of course the dealer said it was normal and nothing could be done about it. I adjusted the stop bolts on the back of wheels and then had the alignment checked, then I adjusted the steering wheel by removing and repositioning the steering wheel to look straight. On first gens. the only alignment is toe (in or out) and centering of the steering wheel. When I was done , the steering wheel was straight and revolutions of the steering wheel to right ot left was less than 1/4 different. ps / there is a pretty good shop located in Sterling

 

[JGrefenstette]

Thanks a lot Jay, i apreciate. ill definatly use a lock washer. and will contact you if i have any further questions.



KSears, are you talking about Chantilly Spring and Allignment? I still dont full understand the proceedure to streighten the steering wheel completly. So lets say i put the shaft in, the wheel is much tighter, but still turned to far clockwise. where do i go from there?

 

[JLEONARD]

Use a lock washer

My bad... I meant to say lock NUT.



(was typing the reply with my grandson on my lap so I was a little distracted. . LOL)

 

[JGrefenstette]

no problem jay.



one of yall mentioned that the gear box can be adjusted to get rid of slack?? i was just messing with the shaft while my truck was warming up and it seems that about 50% of the slop is in the box. so if i get the new shaft im affraid it wont do as much as i thought. worst case, how much is a new gear box?

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

I replaced the gearbox at the same time as the steering shaft. Gearbox ran me about $200... I think. That things a pain to replace. I've had to take out and put in the steering gear on 7 different occasions in the last year, so now I have it down to a science. The thing weighs probably 50lbs so having a buddy around to hold it while you put the bolts in helps. I also gaurentee that your hydraulic lines are rusted and seized up and will twist off, so you'll need to replace them. The pitman arm also will refuse to come off. While youre down there the plate that holds the gear on tends to crack and you can check for that and weld it or replace it. I bought a new one from the dealership for 20 bucks. Also, buy all new bolts, nuts, and washers... this will help with putting the thing back together, especially if you live in the rust belt, cuz those things get a good splash of salt in winter and don't get cleaned in the carwash often.



By the way, the steering wheel is splined all the way around, you just need to pull it and jump it to the next notch... no filing required... I've done it twice now.



As far as the adjustment on the gear, theres a set screw on the top right by where the lines come in. It will probably be rusted in place, but its worth a try. It'll help a little, but I hold to the theory that its used parts that got me here, its used parts that will get me right back here again.



Over the past 2 years I have replaced anything and everything to do with my steering/front end, and in some cases multiple times. If you have any questions, let me know... I'm sure I've... how does the saying go... "been there, broke that. "

 

[JLEONARD]

By the way, the steering wheel is splined all the way around, you just need to pull it and jump it to the next notch... no filing required... I've done it twice now.

I believe it's 36 tooth... so one tooth shift = 10 degree change