Bosch 100 hp nozzles, fit 2004.5

[blacksheepdiesel]

6 Bosch 100 hp nozzles for sale. Just removed from my 2004. 5 truck and put 50 hp nozzles back in, 100's are too big for towing full time. Cleaned by reputable shop. Price $450. 00 shipped USPS flat rate.



Godspeed,

Trent

 

[WalterJ]

Greetings blacksheepdiesel;

Pls. tell me a little about your 4. 5 3500 @ 597K miles. What engine repairs have been necessary? Are you using larger injectors to compensate for worn out engine? Are 50HP injectors similar to "Stage 1"?

We're RV'g much more now & have been running a Banks Economind tuner (w/PDA) for 3 years; now have 192K miles. Do you have opinion RE: upgrading injectors versus bumping up the tuner power level?

What are you using to monitor trans slip & temps?

Thanks much,

Wally

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Hey Wally!

The '04. 5 now has 609,000 miles. The mileage was about 330,000 when I bought it. The engine has been bulletproof save for rebuilt injectors 3 different times since I have owned it. The previous owner had a SuperChips downloader and was pushing the fuel rail pressure up above stock, I am convinced that is what ruined the first set of injectors. The 2nd set lasted 236,000 miles and were just rebuilt last month. I have a 3 micron filter in between the stock filter and the CP3. The only reason I had 100 hp injectors is that was all the dealer had when I needed them, they were way too big for towing. I chose the 50 hp injectors this time because they help restore some timing that the factory removes to meet emissions. These engines come from the factory tuned to meet emissions instead of for efficiency. The 50 hp injectors and a Smarty Jr on the "Tow" setting recover a lot of that efficiency. 50 hp is probably the same as Stage 1. I highly recommend the bigger nozzles because they work hand in hand with the downloader. The 50 hp are pretty much perfect for towing.

The front and rear crank oil seals have been replaced recently and a new crank vibration damper was installed last month when the old one was failing. The water pump was just replaced and I put on a new belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley at the same time, just preventive maintenance. The fuel control actuator has been replaced as well as the fuel rail sensor. Other than these things the engine is still original and very strong.

This truck has a 6 speed manual and typically it will go 300,000 miles before the bearings get noisy and it needs rebuilt.

The '05 truck has the 48RE and it was rebuilt with a triple disc torque convertor and upgraded valve body and internals. This truck has a trans temp gauge mounted in the Mag Hytech pan. This transmission simply does not slip when in Tow/Haul mode.

If your trans is stock you don't won't to turn up the power too much or you will trash it.

Happy travels!

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

The '04. 5 now has 609,000 miles.

Your sig is 12k off on the '04. 5... Please update all of them so I can see what the '01 has on her now... AND also to see if you're over 3 million miles between the 5

 

[WalterJ]

Thanks Trent;
. . for your very detailed response to my "injector" query. We arrived FL last night, providing a 3 day 1263 mi. test of my rebuilt 48RE transmission. You're correct, in that orig trans can't quite handle Pwr Lvl 6 via my Banks Economind tuner. I never planned to tour at that pwr lvl, but wanted the tuner for some additional umph!

The day before planned departure last week, (thanks goodness) I noticed an oil puddle developing as I warmed up the engine for running some chores. (it was 29 deg. ) A trusted local shop rebuilt trans with Precision Triple disc TC, a Sport/Racing 3rd gear clutch pack, billet input shaft, and other high quality internals, designed for my towing & exh. braking pleasure ($4,300).

NOTE: My trans tech was repairing a similar trans & showed me what this gals' cracked input shaft looked like. The splines where the shaft enters the main gear, are triangular (picture wedges!). "Excessive' torque tends to spread out the center boss of the main gear. There were 2 radial cracks emanating from the center boss. Seasonal snow plowing with personal (not hvy duty prepped) PU trucks gives them a lot of Winter business for trashed reverse gears & cracked input shafts. He feels that a billet shaft is really a necessary (but pricey $700+) minimum for ANY repair/rebuild.

Some Pwr Lvl 6 testing on 5% grade in TN was unsuccessful in causing any TC slip (monitored by Banks PDA interface)! That yields a most comforting feeling for our future RV'g. ... but I digress

At 192,000 miles, I then anticipate normal maint. should keep me on the road RV'g 'till at least 500K Miles? I'm concerned about the $$ of engine overhaul & when it's needed. I figure @ 30K/yr avg, it's got another 10 years in it? We really hope so. I've got too much "infrastructure" installed to consider another truck, ya know, just when you've got it the way you like it...

Pls. clarify, however, your reasoning for installing 50HP injectors as opposed to 'cranking up' the tuner power level. I do not understand the timing advantage you referred to as it relates to 'efficiency'. I'm new to this game... be gentle.

Regards,
Wally

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Hey Wally,

The holes in the stock nozzles are slightly smaller than the holes in the 50 hp nozzles. The bigger the hole the quicker the fuel gets in. Not MORE fuel, just QUICKER. That equates to increased timing because the fuel gets into the cylinder faster which allows burn to begin earlier in the power stroke. All that equates to more efficiency. With a tuner you are typically adding more fuel to get more power. With bigger nozzles you are using the same amount of fuel, but quicker entry into the cylinder means more power and therefore better efficiency. It's late and I am probably not wording this in a way that explains very well. If this doesn't make sense let me know and I will try again.

Godspeed,
Trent