Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Bosch 275 Injectors

[Tractorat]

I have a percieved (by me) power issue that I thought might be from a degrading EZ box (probably not the problem). Im going to take it in sometime in the next few weeks to have that looked at as well as the turbo. Since its there, I may ask about upgrading my injectors. I have 2 question about that.



1. I just want the extra power for towing (I go over mountains to go anywhere). This thread is talking about rv275s. Except for the EZ, my truck is stock. Will I see a very big improvement in torque and HP if I go with those ? Or is another size recommended ?



2. The only gauge I have is a transmission temp gauge, although I do have the led for fuel pressure. If all I do is upgrade the injectors (keeping in mind I have the Edge EZ on the truck), is that enough of a performance upgrade where I really need to monitor EGT's ? (My TT is only about 3500 to 4000lbs max loaded)



Thanks,

TRat

 

[Tractorat]

One other thing

If I do the injector upgrade above. Providing my stock auto trans is in good shape right now, is that extra power enough to cause problems ?



Thanks again,

 

[HBarlow]

I have a percieved (by me) power issue that I thought might be from a degrading EZ box (probably not the problem). Im going to take it in sometime in the next few weeks to have that looked at as well as the turbo. Since its there, I may ask about upgrading my injectors. I have 2 question about that.

1. I just want the extra power for towing (I go over mountains to go anywhere). This thread is talking about rv275s. Except for the EZ, my truck is stock. Will I see a very big improvement in torque and HP if I go with those ? Or is another size recommended ?

2. The only gauge I have is a transmission temp gauge, although I do have the led for fuel pressure. If all I do is upgrade the injectors (keeping in mind I have the Edge EZ on the truck), is that enough of a performance upgrade where I really need to monitor EGT's ? (My TT is only about 3500 to 4000lbs max loaded)

Thanks,
TRat

TRat,

Unfortunately I did not yet have gauges in my '01 when the truck was only a few months old and Joe Donnelly installed RV275 injectors in it during a TDR rally in Kerrville, TX. When I returned home from that trip I immediately had a set of gauges installed (EGT and Boost).

That truck was a factory stock HO six speed except for the injectors. Flooring the accelerator pedal in the upper gears would immediately peg the pyro gauge at 1600*. Ascending almost any moderately steep grade with a trailer behind would easily spin the pyro gauge toward 1600*. I usually had to back out of the throttle a little to keep it at around 1300*.

My guess is that with injectors and an EZ box you will absolutely require gauges to avoid buying an engine.

 

[Tractorat]

Thanks. That was I was looking for. I have a idea that my problem is either fuel or turbo related. And once I get that addressed, I will be fine with my current setup. The additional power would be nice. But I am resisting adding more gauges (although I may take a serious look at that)

 

[HBarlow]

TRat,

You didn't describe your problem so I didn't focus on it in my earlier post. Apparently you suspect but can't prove a loss of power?

That is another clear reason why you need gauges.

When my '01 had about 100k miles on it it developed a chatter on clutch engagement. It was my fault, I got the clutch hot backing a trailer into a tight parking spot up a grade and without thinking, shut the truck down before allowing it to idle five minutes or so to cool the clutch disc and pressure plate. It warped a little and caused the clutch chatter.

I took the truck and my trailer a long distance to a trusted mechanic because, at the time, I didn't know anyone I could trust and who had the equipment to do a clutch replacement with a NV-5600. The mechanic also removed the starter and did a Larry B's upgrade on the starter.

On the trip back home my power was down. It would still pull an 8,500 lb. Airstream but I knew power was down. I could prove it because it wouldn't produce full boost, wouldn't prodice the normal maximum egt, and wouldn't smoke under heavy throttle.

I took it to a dealer when I returned home and they told me it was normal. I knew it wasn't so called Bill Stockard and Joe Donnelly to describe the symptoms and ask for advice. Both Bill and Joe, independently of the other, told me to check the MAP sensor. That was the problem. I think the mechanic who did the clutch and starter accidentally hit the MAP sensor. Maybe, maybe not. But it was bad.

A long story to tell you to check the MAP sensor but now you know why you need gauges.

 

[Tractorat]

Thanks HBarlow,

I will probably bite the bullet for some more gauges in the next couple of months. The more I read some of these post, the more concerned I am about egt's even though my truck is stock except the ez. I think that if I do anything with injectors, I really need to at least add an egt gauge. Probably a fuel pressure gauge as well

 

[bromano676]

jeepit



my wife has family in your neck of the woods. Last summer on a trip to Milewaukee I needed to take the truck in for some work. HDIESEL. COM Huckstorf they are just south of the city in Franklin Wi. Awesome bunch of guys. Hooked me up on a vacation emergency. installed the RV 275s.



I love the injectors. got better fuel mileage going home then I did going there too.

 

[jeepit]

Bromano676

Give me a hollar next time you are up here.

 

[KrisKringle]

Injector comparison...

OK, I have read just about every post about injectors, including the article in the TDR from Joe D. Unfortunately the article is about the later model injectors, and although great with theory and clarification of function, not enough on the 24V 5,7 motor.



I am coming over to the states in a few weeks, and plan on picking up a Fluid Damper; Borgenson shaft and column bushing kit. Injectors are on the list. Although I can get the Marine and RV275 injectors here (listed as Caterpillar parts), they cost 160$ each... (130 € each).



A bit of info.



I have a 2001 Ram 2500 with 138K on it. I notice that when I start it up, there is always a cloud. This would indicate a bit of leakdown from the injectors when sitting I am guessing. In addition, there is an occasional 'blip' in the RPM at idle, as if one of the injectors is blowing off either early or more fuel.



Use of the truck is for, well... work: here are a few pictures:



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I am not interested in 'bombing' the truck, it needs to be reliable and efficient. (Hey - Diesel here is over 7$ per gallon!) I recently noticed the mileage dropped to around 17 mpg, and have not had time to check the TPPS... maybe on the weekend.



In looking at the different options;



Dynomite Diesel:-I understand the value and precision of their product, but the expense for my application does not warrent it.



Vulcan Diesel

-At 429$ including core, I am wondering if these are just off the shelf, or checked for flow... .



At Diesel Auto Power:



They are flow checked, and cost around 60$ more, including core charge. (at484$) An added plus is that they have the best price on the Fluidampr around, as well as free shipping.



The only mods to my truck are the 4" Dynomax SS exhaust system, FASS DDRP pump, and a K&N filter. I do not plan on putting on a smarty box or other tuning.



Any input would be appreciated. BTW, I think I have just about the only Cummins Diesel here in Germany... at least in my area.

 

[Road Dog]

I am coming over to the states in a few weeks, and plan on picking up a Fluid Damper; Borgenson shaft and column bushing kit. Injectors are on the list. Although I can get the Marine and RV275 injectors here (listed as Caterpillar parts), they cost 160$ each... (130 € each).

There's also PDR in Canada (RV275 injectors for $US335). No core charge listed. RV275's seem to come and go. I guess Bosch does a production run once a year and everybody stocks up.

I get a nice mileage boost with my Edge Juice. It came with the truck. I don't need the power boost but the lower settings change the timing and increase the fuel economy as a side effect. I get 15L/100km city and 13L/100km highway just driving around.

 

[FFL8N]

I didn't read the whole post, but I may have a set off my 2000 that I took out a long time ago. They have just been sitting on a shelf in the box. Let me know if you are interested. I would let them go fairly cheep. They only had about 20000 miles, if that, on them before I replaced them with DD2's.

 

[KrisKringle]

I didn't read the whole post, but I may have a set off my 2000 that I took out a long time ago. They have just been sitting on a shelf in the box. Let me know if you are interested. I would let them go fairly cheep. They only had about 20000 miles, if that, on them before I replaced them with DD2's.

Thanks for the offer. I already ordered the DAP injectors. I have had plenty of experience with installing 'good used' from my 68 cuda, to my 67 Bonnie (triumph). In the end, well let's just say the pennies saved were not worth the effort or aggrevation in the end. JK

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I covered injector installation in Issue 51, p. 96. About ten years ago, I dyno tested stock vs. Bosch RV 275 HP injectors, with these results: 235 HP 5 speed engine: +33 HP; 245 HP, 6 speed HO engine: +42 HP; 215 HP automatic engine, +50 HP.

 

[KrisKringle]

I covered injector installation in Issue 51, p. 96. About ten years ago, I dyno tested stock vs. Bosch RV 275 HP injectors, with these results: 235 HP 5 speed engine: +33 HP; 245 HP, 6 speed HO engine: +42 HP; 215 HP automatic engine, +50 HP.

Wow, I cannot believe it... THE Joe Donnelly. My brother (David) told me I should try to get a hold of you. Thanks for the info. I will look for it in the archives. Thanks for you help, and all of the great articles. Jonathan.

 

[KrisKringle]

I covered injector installation in Issue 51, p. 96. About ten years ago, I dyno tested stock vs. Bosch RV 275 HP injectors, with these results: 235 HP 5 speed engine: +33 HP; 245 HP, 6 speed HO engine: +42 HP; 215 HP automatic engine, +50 HP.

I searched the archives, however, the info is for 2003, and my truck is a 2001---perhaps I am missing something?

 

[Road Dog]

The 2003 uses a CP3/common rail injector pump and uses completely different injectors. Any article about the RV275 would use a VP44 injector pump (1998. 5 - 2002).

 

[Bob4x4]

If I do the injector upgrade above. Providing my stock auto trans is in good shape right now, is that extra power enough to cause problems ?



Thanks again,

The ez will help keep the temps in check

Gauges are a must if towing on grades with

Any mods on the 2nd gens

The trans should be upgrade at that power level

40% torque increase is enough to over work it

I would also do a mild turbo upgrade such as the

Pdr 35 hybrid to get a nice useable power band

 

[KrisKringle]

The 2003 uses a CP3/common rail injector pump and uses completely different injectors. Any article about the RV275 would use a VP44 injector pump (1998. 5 - 2002).

Um, Thanks for the info. I looked at JD'S article, and somehow, there was nothing in there about the RV275's. I assume that what he wrote after the reference to the article was what he observed in another situation / article. JK

 

[aviatorman]

Installed the 300hp marines in my truck,, took me 8 hours cause I'm old and slow. What a difference in performance! Engine much smoother at idle, much quieter at highway towing speeds and man what a kick in the a** when you put the peddle down. Picked up 1 mile/gal mileage (now at 23mpg). Towing 40ft dutchman toy hauler was a real chore with stock nozzles(down shifting in mountains on grades), but just got back from the Smokies and the truck laughed at at every mountain I climbed. Turbo pressure now leads the temps and seems to top out at 1200 pulling mountain grades. I'm really pleased over all with the performance. I do have a quirk that as yet have not cured and it's really annoying. After truck sits overnite, I have to prime the injector system with the lift pump for 30 secs and then crank for 15 or so secs before it will lite off. Lift pump pressure is 14 psi so I know it's getting good fuel. I've bled the injectors twice and it will get better for a few days but returns to its stubborn starts. Anybody have this happen? If so, what'd ya do to fix it?

 

[firefighter_2000]

Torque the lines.

You might want to check the torque on the line nuts. Sounds like they're loosing prime. You'll need a 19mm crows foot or flar nut wrench with a torque wrench to check for propper torque. The propper torque spec slips my mind right now. If that doesnt solve the problem, and depending on how many miles you have on your truck, you might want to check the ends of the lines. My lines had corroded a bit causing a loss of prime.



Check out my post concerning that here:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...998-5-2002/227669-wasn-t-crossover-tubes.html



Craig