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Bought a Jetta TDI today

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I have the answer to the oil shortage

'95 Chevy 6.5 fuel economy

Anyone know what to look for or be aware of on these things? The car is great. I like it alot but know very little about the VW diesel.
 
Got a 2000 in the family, gets great milage but VW has horrible electronic components. The auto transmission locks up about every 1-2 months. Hopefully they got that fixed by 2002.
 
Heavy Metal said:
Anyone know what to look for or be aware of on these things? The car is great. I like it alot but know very little about the VW diesel.



Our 2002 jetta TDI is great, for the last 6 months I have put ~100 HARD mountain miles on it a day. In 35000 miles we have had a coule of problems though.



1. Power window actuator widgets. These will die. If they have not been replaced on your Jetta talk to the dealer, they are a TSB item.



2. These cars seem to eat brake pedal/light switches. Ours has eaten three. If the glowplug light flashes after startup check this first.



3. If you have a sun roof, and one morning find H2O in the floor boards of the passenger side, take off the moulding (a pillar?) between the front and rear doors, and unkink the sunroof vent tubes. This is a design issue. You can fix it by replacing the tube with a more rigid type.



Other than that, we have had no problems. If you have not checked out www.tdiclub.com I reommend you do. They have a lot more info there.



Charles.



P. S. Do the EGR valve fix, either manually (disconnect) or with the VagCom.
 
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Thanks for the replies. These sound like annoying but minor issues. My truck is my main vehicle. I bought the car to drive anytime my truck will be apart for awhile (having head o-ringed now-will be installing twins soon). That's the main reason anyway. I also wanted to have something that is more easily manuvered in certain parking lots and garages (roof of truck is 7'-1" from ground) and just to drive whenever I feel like something different.



Bryan
 
Congrats! We have two 2003's: one with a little over 20k miles and the other with a little over 30k miles. Couldn't tell you what to look for as we have had no problems... great cars.



Both get over 50 mpg highway. Never got below 40 city, and I drive through the city (Baltimore) to get to work.



Jim
 
1) clean the intake

2) adjust the EGR adaptation via vag-com (so you never have to clean it again!)

3) install CCV 'elephant hose'

4) install 'epsilonian device'

5) yank the snow screen

6) yank the muffler and the cat

7) install variable resistor in the injection pump harness

8) install larger injector nozzles

9) install Pierburg MAF sensor

10) enjoy! :D



Matt
 
My 2000 Jetta TDI had a problem with the ABS unit running non stop even with the key off right after the warranty expired at 35000. Dealer wanted 2000 bucks to fix it... I unplugged it... saved the 2000... and bought some more goodies for the CTD... no ABS but it still stops good at 70000
 
They are great little cars (don't believe every nightmare story you hear). I have a 2003 with just under 70K on it. I run Amsoil Series 3000 oil and have had the EGR turned off via the VAGCOM software (check on the www.tdiclub.com for a list of people who have the VAGCOM software, they will do this for you at no charge other than a few beers). Replace the fuel and air filter's religiously and have the timing belt changed if your over 60K. And do like Holeshotholset said.
 
HoleshotHolset said:
1) clean the intake

2) adjust the EGR adaptation via vag-com (so you never have to clean it again!)

3) install CCV 'elephant hose'

4) install 'epsilonian device'

5) yank the snow screen

6) yank the muffler and the cat

7) install variable resistor in the injection pump harness

8) install larger injector nozzles

9) install Pierburg MAF sensor

10) enjoy! :D



Matt





Matt,

2 questions.



What is an elipsonian device?

What, exactly, does the variable resistor allow you to do?



Charles
 
Charles/Monstar said:
What is an elipsonian device?

What, exactly, does the variable resistor allow you to do?



The 'epsilonian device' provides feedback to the ECM that everything is 'AOK' as far as the EGR/MAF relationship is concerned - post mechanical EGR modification. When the ECM calls for EGR flow... (energizes a vacuum solenoid - which opens the EGR valve)... it looks for a cooresponding drop in total airflow across the MAF. Under normal circumstances, this makes perfect sense since the engine is now breathing through the MAF and through the EGR at the same time... instead of just through the MAF. The 'epsilonian device' has a vacuum operated switch that introduces resistance across the MAF signal wires - thereby fooling the ECM into thinking that it is seeing the right amount of airflow reduction through the MAF. By reacting to the ECM's call for EGR flow in the same manner as the OEM setup... you can see how completely removing or blocking off the EGR system can become a reality - 85% of the time withOUT setting a CEL (Check Engine Light).



The variable resistor in the injection pump harness operates in a similar fashion to many big $$ horsepower/torque adding 'boxes'. These boxes introduce a resistance across the two injection pump wires that give feedback as to the position of the fuel control 'solenoid' (we'll call it a solenoid just to keep things simple). By fooling the ECM into thinking that the 'solenoid' isn't in the right position... the ECM reacts by moving it in a favorable position to provide more fuel - for more power. Some of the boxes are smart in that they figure out when to turn on... or allow you to tune them. Some react to boost pressure... the thought being that under a little boost is the best time to add fuel and avoid a CEL. The cheap $0. 99 Radio Shack variable resistor trick is VERY effective, but will set a CEL if you adjust it too far. Most less expensive diesel 'boxes' don't do anything but fool the ECM into thinking everything is "AOK - Oh, and add WAY more fuel while you're at it!!".



Make sense? Let me know...



Matt
 
I have had 3 TDI's over the last 5 yrs and I have to say they are great. If you ask why I have had so many is because my dad works for VW of north america. Any way my current one has 35000 on it in barely 8 months and it has consistinly gave me 44 to 51 mpg. No problems at all, however it does start a little harder than past models have in cold conditions. Hope you enjoy it and getting 50 mpg!
 
HoleshotHolset said:
1) clean the intake

2) adjust the EGR adaptation via vag-com (so you never have to clean it again!)

3) install CCV 'elephant hose'

4) install 'epsilonian device'

5) yank the snow screen

6) yank the muffler and the cat

7) install variable resistor in the injection pump harness

8) install larger injector nozzles

9) install Pierburg MAF sensor

10) enjoy! :D



Matt



1. Cleaning the intake is an involved job. It requires removing the egr as well as a few other items. If you are going to do this, I suggest the installation of a Dieselgeek race pipe at this time (assuming off road use of course ;) ) The race pipe completely bypasses the EGR, and will require an epsi device to kill the CEL.



2. Performing the EGR adaptation in vag-com does NOT eliminate intake clogging/dirtying, it simply lessens it. I did the vag-com adaptation with only 800 miles on my 02 TDI, and at 50k there was a nice layer of crud in my intake. No, not nearly as bad as if I had left it stock.



3. Installing an elephant hose can come back to bite you if you live in a cold climate due to the hose freezing up. Most TDI'ers prefer a CCV filter of some sort. A TDIclub member named Old Navy sells them I believe. If you live in a warmer climate - go for the elephant hose.



4. Installing an epsi device is ONLY necessary if you REMOVE the EGR or disconnect it. If you do the VAG-COM adaptation this is not necessary. Understand that installing one of these devices requires you to cut some wires from your factory maf sensor harness and tap into them.



5. I recommend FINDING the snow screen and deciding whether you'd like to keep and clean it or cut it out entirely. It's amazing how much dirt/crap that thing stops from getting into the airbox. It's also amazing how quickly it clogs up. Basically follow the airbox forward. Unbolt the plastic pipe from the side of the firewall and pull it out. You'll have to unscrew the last portion but you'll be able to see the screen in there once you have the piping out.



6. My 02 didn't have a CAT, and exhaust systems/EGTs aren't really as much of a concern with these cars. Installing a high flow/aftermarket 2. 5 or 3" exhaust on these cars does little to nothing for performance, just makes noise.



As for the performance recommendations - those are up to you. The pierberg maf is a replacement that is less likely to fail and costs less, but won't give you any more power/performance.



Good luck with it, I had no problems in the 65k I owned my 02, aside from one window switch going bad, and it was chipped the whole time, as well as being used to tow my ATV or jetski around on single trailers.
 
LightmanE300 said:
1. Cleaning the intake is an involved job. It requires removing the egr as well as a few other items.

If it takes longer than 2 hours and a 6-pack... you're doing something HORRIBLY wrong.



LightmanE300 said:
2. Performing the EGR adaptation in vag-com does NOT eliminate intake clogging/dirtying, it simply lessens it. I did the vag-com adaptation with only 800 miles on my 02 TDI, and at 50k there was a nice layer of crud in my intake. No, not nearly as bad as if I had left it stock.

It all depends on how far you crank the numbers. You can crank the numbers enough so that next to zero EGR flow is being called by the ECM. Most VAG-COM/TDI owners won't dare to go beyond the published numbers... horrible things might happen - like when the Ghostbusters 'cross the streams'!



LightmanE300 said:
3. Installing an elephant hose can come back to bite you if you live in a cold climate due to the hose freezing up.

I'm calling complete BS on that line. Do you live in a cold climate? My TDI saw subzero temps for two winters and in 50k miles of ownership... I NEVER had a problem with the CCV hose freezing up. Countless others use these in very cold climates and never have problems.



LightmanE300 said:
4. Installing an epsi device is ONLY necessary if you REMOVE the EGR or disconnect it. If you do the VAG-COM adaptation this is not necessary. Understand that installing one of these devices requires you to cut some wires from your factory maf sensor harness and tap into them.

Agreed.



LightmanE300 said:
5. I recommend FINDING the snow screen and deciding whether you'd like to keep and clean it or cut it out entirely.

Agreed.



LightmanE300 said:
6. My 02 didn't have a CAT, and exhaust systems/EGTs aren't really as much of a concern with these cars. Installing a high flow/aftermarket 2. 5 or 3" exhaust on these cars does little to nothing for performance, just makes noise.

Disagree. On bone stock cars, you're right... it doesn't do a darn thing. On a car with fueling modifications, EGT's can get into the 1400°F range... and uncorking the exhaust/cat will make a really big difference.



LightmanE300 said:
As for the performance recommendations - those are up to you. The pierberg maf is a replacement that is less likely to fail and costs less, but won't give you any more power/performance.

Disagree. My OEM MAF worked perfectly well... it wasn't until I replaced it with a Pierburg that I realized it was tired. My OEM MAF was still operational because the car ran drastically worse without it... which is usually a good test. If the car doesn't run any worse with the MAF disconnected... the MAF is bad. Bolting in the Pierburg made the car REALLY wake up.



Matt
 
Best advice I could give you is to start visiting the www.tdiclub.com site mentioned above. There's lots of expertise there.



I have a 2003 wagon with 65,000 miles on it. Average a little over 49 MPG at 75 MPH. No problems other than defective switches for the seat warmers, and now a noisy heater/airconditioner fan.
 
HoleshotHolset said:
If it takes longer than 2 hours and a 6-pack... you're doing something HORRIBLY wrong.



It takes about 2 hours, not including the soaking/scraping you have to do to get all the carbon and gunk out of the intake. It's not a hard job but a pain in the butt, and the intake bolts are very hard to reach if you're a big guy.





It all depends on how far you crank the numbers. You can crank the numbers enough so that next to zero EGR flow is being called by the ECM. Most VAG-COM/TDI owners won't dare to go beyond the published numbers... horrible things might happen - like when the Ghostbusters 'cross the streams'!



You may be right - I only pushed the numbers far enough to drop my duty cycle to 4% max. However, I don't think the EGR is the only thing changing that number affects... . I believe it cuts down on the performance going farther than 32768.







I'm calling complete BS on that line. Do you live in a cold climate? My TDI saw subzero temps for two winters and in 50k miles of ownership... I NEVER had a problem with the CCV hose freezing up. Countless others use these in very cold climates and never have problems.



I'm going to have to say you're rude for calling it BS. I know several people who've had elephant hoses freeze up on TDI's, all you need to do is a search. Heck, even Scotty had his extended 'elephant' breather hose clog/freeze up on his Cummins. It will cause you a very bad day.



Disagree. On bone stock cars, you're right... it doesn't do a darn thing. On a car with fueling modifications, EGT's can get into the 1400°F range... and uncorking the exhaust/cat will make a really big difference.



I had a chip and plenty of other mods on my TDI. Even when towing 1000lbs with the pedal to the floor, EGT's were never a concern. Again there was no CAT on mine. Maybe the CAT causes restriction if there is one on newer models.





Disagree. My OEM MAF worked perfectly well... it wasn't until I replaced it with a Pierburg that I realized it was tired. My OEM MAF was still operational because the car ran drastically worse without it... which is usually a good test. If the car doesn't run any worse with the MAF disconnected... the MAF is bad. Bolting in the Pierburg made the car REALLY wake up.



I ran the pierberg on my tdi and a friends. Both of us noticed the performance restored to that of a stock vw maf, but nothing more. They are simply a more reliable cheaper alternative.
 
LightmanE300 said:
It takes about 2 hours, not including the soaking/scraping you have to do to get all the carbon and gunk out of the intake. It's not a hard job but a pain in the butt, and the intake bolts are very hard to reach if you're a big guy.

Agreed. Most important of all - remember to pull the cotton balls out of the intake ports.



LightmanE300 said:
You may be right - I only pushed the numbers far enough to drop my duty cycle to 4% max. However, I don't think the EGR is the only thing changing that number affects... . I believe it cuts down on the performance going farther than 32768.

Interesting... I haven't heard about that.



LightmanE300 said:
I'm going to have to say you're rude for calling it BS. I know several people who've had elephant hoses freeze up on TDI's, all you need to do is a search. Heck, even Scotty had his extended 'elephant' breather hose clog/freeze up on his Cummins. It will cause you a very bad day.

Rude? Nah, just realistic. We both know instances covering both sides of the issue. I'll consider this one a draw...



LightmanE300 said:
I had a chip and plenty of other mods on my TDI. Even when towing 1000lbs with the pedal to the floor, EGT's were never a concern. Again there was no CAT on mine. Maybe the CAT causes restriction if there is one on newer models.

What did you have besides the chip that would increase fueling? What kind of boost did you see? My '98 had a cat... I think it was clogged just prior to me hogging out the innards. After it was cleaned out, the car ran like a violated primate.



LightmanE300 said:
I ran the pierberg on my tdi and a friends. Both of us noticed the performance restored to that of a stock vw maf, but nothing more. They are simply a more reliable cheaper alternative.

Agreed. I've never driven a brand new bone stock ALH... I do remember what my ALH ran like when I first got it, though. :rolleyes: It didn't stay stock for very long.



Matt
 
All I can say is I miss my 02 TDI a lot! The mileage was awesome and with fuel prices these days, it sure would be nice. I also liked how cheap the car was to buy and own - I didn't really mind flogging the crap out of it on a regular basis :) Even though the MB is superior in every way aside from mpg (it gets 28-35mpg), part of me wishes I had sold that and kept the TDI for screwing around in.
 
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